Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[_Ryan_]

Hi Ryan, the big white resister doesn't go anywhere, it is for testing the voltages. How to test them is in the instructions. The 2 x IC's are marked with white paint, the instructions tell you where they go. It's in the fine print, but it is there.

Cheers

Gary

cheers Gary

i'll try and have a look at it tonight.

[_Ryan_]

cheers Gary

i'll try and have a look at it tonight.

Gary,

The info that came with my kit is the same as in the mag, i can wire it from the pinouts you said, but where do i put the big resistor? and if the IC's are around the wrong way, can i switch them? 1&2 only had stick on labels on them not matching the parts list.

-Ryan

[Sydneykid]

Gary,

The info that came with my kit is the same as in the mag, i can wire it from the pinouts you said, but where do i put the big resistor? and if the IC's are around the wrong way, can i switch them? 1&2 only had stick on labels on them not matching the parts list.

-Ryan

Hi Ryan, the instructions in the kit have more detail than the book (Performance Electronics for Cars). The book doesn't have the IC marking for a start and the instructions do. You won't damage the IC's if you put them in the wrong way around, you will just get strange results when you try and do the testing. The big white resistor is used when testing the voltage, I didn't use it as I have a variable voltage power supply.

Cheers

Gary

[1C3B3RG]

SK

I am busy reading this thread at 22h00 and i find your 10 minute boost increase instructions. I follow them and BAM! The slowness is gone! My R33 auto suddenly has a bit more life, yes i did test drive it at 10h30 at night. I will be brave and buy the Jaycar boost controller and DFA. Happy times! I hope it goes well for me, hope my tuner can do his magic with the Jaycar gear on his dyno.

Thank you so much for all you have done, truly you are the saint of RB25!

Edited January 30, 2008 by 1C3B3RG

[1C3B3RG]

HI everyone

Has anyone in brisbane got these two systems running in their car? I want to go ahead but want to know if anyone can tune them on a dyno or if anyone has enough experience to assist me.

Thanks

[1C3B3RG]

Anyone???????

[Sydneykid]

HI everyone

Has anyone in brisbane got these two systems running in their car? I want to go ahead but want to know if anyone can tune them on a dyno or if anyone has enough experience to assist me.

Thanks

There is nothing difficult about tuning, the DFA is very similar to an SAFC and almosty everybody knows how to tune with them.

As for the Boost Controller that is best tuned on the road, it might need a little touch up on the dyno, buit I have never seen that required.

Cheers

Gary

[1C3B3RG]

Thanks Gary

I'm so glad you replied, i thought you had given up on this thread. I'm a bit slow, never ventured into Stagea threads before. I am happy i did though. I have built the IEBC and halfway through hand controller, wasn't that hard. I'm having trouble finding bits of info that are scattered all across these 46 pages. I'm sure i'll get there, it will just take a bit longer.

Thanks again.

[1C3B3RG]

Hey all

I built my IEBC, fitted and tuned it. I have been running it for ten days. Awesome! I have low setting on 9 psi and high 13 psi. Both curves are almost perfect. The best thing is fuel consumption. I have a new record 538 km from my last tank. Previous best 530 km. I suppose more boost and less revs to make power.

Excellent. Just built dfa and will fit and tune in next week.

[DaveB]

There is nothing difficult about tuning, the DFA is very similar to an SAFC and almosty everybody knows how to tune with them.

As for the Boost Controller that is best tuned on the road, it might need a little touch up on the dyno, buit I have never seen that required.

Cheers

Gary

Hi Gary, don't mean to hijack this thread, but I was wondering if you eventually achieved your power target of ~200awkw, and if you managed it with the R34/S2 stagea sidemount intercooler?

Thanks,

DaveB

[dmac_25]

Hey Gary

I sent you a PM on the boost controller

[RBPOWA-(TJ)]

just found my solenoid was earth by previous owner .... but still feel's really slow .... like 4-7psi setup .... and was warned by the mech not to earth it incase to turbo shit's it self cause its ceramic and boost's faster but also cannot take a load of 10psi constantly ... which he said if i earth the solenoid i may get 10psi .. so i decided to leave it .... just read this post and had a look at my engine ... and yep ...its been earth but no power hm.....

[Sydneykid]

just found my solenoid was earth by previous owner .... but still feel's really slow .... like 4-7psi setup .... and was warned by the mech not to earth it incase to turbo shit's it self cause its ceramic and boost's faster but also cannot take a load of 10psi constantly ... which he said if i earth the solenoid i may get 10psi .. so i decided to leave it .... just read this post and had a look at my engine ... and yep ...its been earth but no power hm.....

The two stage boost has nothing to do with extending the turbo life, it's to prevent wheelspin in lower gears and save the auto gearbox/manual clutch from excessive low gear torque loading. Running 7 psi all the time has absolutely zero effect on the life of the turbo.

Cheers

Gary

[benro2]

The two stage boost has nothing to do with extending the turbo life, it's to prevent wheelspin in lower gears and save the auto gearbox/manual clutch from excessive low gear torque loading. Running 7 psi all the time has absolutely zero effect on the life of the turbo.

When using the IEBC and DFA and running 10 psi from as low revs as possible, would that shorten the life of the transmission noticeably?

I think I read that you tow your race cars with the Stagea, and you're running 10 psi on that right? Any troubles with that? Does it handle the extra weight OK?

Just on a side note, I've been thinking that perhaps Nissan underquoted the torque outputs of the R33's RB25 so that it wasn't too close to the GTR's? The official figures for the auto are something like 275Nm @ 4800 rpm and by that stage it should be running 7-8 psi... so from a 2.5L, 275Nm seems a bit low? I would have estimated it to be more like 330Nm? So @ 10 psi, what would you estimate flywheel torque to be (assuming all stock parts)? I'm thinking about 380-400Nm?

[DaveB]

When using the IEBC and DFA and running 10 psi from as low revs as possible, would that shorten the life of the transmission noticeably?

I would also like to know this; this is what I intend to do with my series 2...

[KiwiRS4T]

I would also like to know this; this is what I intend to do with my series 2...

I have just built the IEBC and DFA (don't know if they work yet fingers crossed) and bought a SITC due to fit them soon. See no reason why any of these or a little extra power would damage the transmission... there are autos running 240awkw and also some commercials using this gearbox. Perhaps some of the guys who fitted these 2 years ago could comment on their experience.

[_Ryan_]

i'm in the same boat as u kiwi

[DaveB]

I'd be interested to know if I should upgrade my transmission cooler; I've seen plenty about this for series 1's (which just have a bit of bent pipe with some fins, basically) but what about series 2's? They have a more substantial looking radiator-type cooler. I have done the MV Autos valve body upgrade with a 100,000 K service which should help too.

[KiwiRS4T]

Gday all,

My Son and I put together the boost controller and hand controller kits on Saturday night.

I got a male to male 25 pin from DSE today and gave it a run.

Prob 1: Got no display on screen. Found that adjusting the display brightness trimpot gave a display.

Prob 2: The display consisted of one line of squares composed of dots. Found that we had swapped the position of the two pics in the Boost Controller kit. (Actually missed the fact when putting it together that these pics are programmed with two different hex files.)

This may help someone later on.

I now have the two kits doing what they should prior to connection to Input and Output. (We installed a boost guage as well on the weekend and so are getting close to ready).

El Bee

Bless you if you are still around. Got a bunch of blocks on my controller and remembered reading something in the 46 pages of this thread and found your post. On my kit they had the same part number but in smaller printing the different numbers for IC1 and IC2

Now ready to install!!

[LZY115]

I have a problem with this ebc.

Followed the instructions, did exactly what it told me to do, I never done electronics since year 10, I'm 110% certain that I have the correct port.

So this is what I bought:

Finishing soldering connect 12v to accessories and earth to see that the ebc and hand controller are in good working order.

Turned the ignition on and I got black boxes, double checked everything to see if I had the correct port plug (which I did), could no make what the problem was.

On the IEBC the led closes to port (from this picture top right corner) was on, also the instruction manual says that IC1 has a dot and IC2 has a line but the chips on my kit didn't have that so swapped IC1 with IC2 while testing to see if this was the cause of my problem, and then some component fused out (don't no which one) so now I'm not getting power to the hand controller, included some high resolution pics.

I still get the red led on but the big capacitor (bottom right, looks like a battery) does not heat up like usual.