Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[DaveB]

Ooh, red LEDs

Probably the usual IC orientation issue, but I don't have the instructions with me atm...

Do you have the wire link that goes under the DB25 connector (hand controller socket) installed? From memory I think it is installed on the underside of the board or something; I did the same trick and I can't see it in your shot... but I can't see much (as u noticed) TBH

[pipster11]

Ooh, red LEDs

Probably the usual IC orientation issue, but I don't have the instructions with me atm...

Do you have the wire link that goes under the DB25 connector (hand controller socket) installed? From memory I think it is installed on the underside of the board or something; I did the same trick and I can't see it in your shot... but I can't see much (as u noticed) TBH

checked those i think, and i remember doing the link under the connector

[KiwiRS4T]

checked those i think, and i remember doing the link under the connector

When you say nothing happens do you mean literally nothing? Do the LEDs light up at all? Best to test with the handcontroller plugged in so you can look at its screen. Try turning the trimpots on the IEBC back and forth to see if there is any action.

Are you confident that the ICs are the right way round? and in the right places? If you look closely you will see that they have different part numbers:

IC1 (marked with dot ) cat# EZ8996 KC5387A goes at right angles to the DB25 (handcontroller) socket on the opposite side of the board with the cutout on top - facing the DB25 socket.

IC2 (marked with line) cat# EZ8997 KC5387B goes parallel to and near to the DB25 socket with the cutout on the left.

Note links LK1 and LK3 should be left out.

[pipster11]

its all how i have it, just double checked then

holding the wires onto the battery terminals should be enough shouldn't it?

and no, no activities from the led's or the display

[sonoramicommando]

hi all,

im finally getting round to install my kit - a quick question.

it looks like the vent between solenoid and actuator is open to atmosphere, according to the figures in the kit - is this the way to go, or plumb it back to pre-compressor somewhere?

cheers,

sam

[DaveB]

hi all,

im finally getting round to install my kit - a quick question.

it looks like the vent between solenoid and actuator is open to atmosphere, according to the figures in the kit - is this the way to go, or plumb it back to pre-compressor somewhere?

cheers,

sam

That's correct Sam, that's how I've been running mine. There is a connection on the turbo inlet pipe (suction side) that I have been meaning to connect mine too just so it isn't hanging around the engine bay but I don't think it matters. It may actually be bad to connect it there... haven't tried yet.

[sonoramicommando]

That's correct Sam, that's how I've been running mine. There is a connection on the turbo inlet pipe (suction side) that I have been meaning to connect mine too just so it isn't hanging around the engine bay but I don't think it matters. It may actually be bad to connect it there... haven't tried yet.

so it runs just fine without plumbback ?

i suppose it's only very small amount of air that's going out of the system post-AFM.

anyone with plumbback care to comment?

cheers

sam

[KiwiRS4T]

Yep like Dave says it should be plumbed back into the bov return pipe (as yours is a new installation you may have to make a fitting). There should be a restrictor in this line and adjusting the diameter of this restrictor will affect the range within which the solenoid operates so if the duty cycle is too high you can make the restrictor smaller or vice versa.

[me_ashman]

I just thought I'd post this as I lost my instructions not long back and couldnt do shit without it. So this is for those(and me) that have lost theirs and need something to start with.

Enjoy.

0729_0001.pdf

0730_0001.pdf

[Kenna802]

Does any one know were to get one of these tuned on Queensland? I have built mine and want some one to tune it on the dyno It has been calibrated and ready to go.

[KiwiRS4T]

Does any one know were to get one of these tuned on Queensland? I have built mine and want some one to tune it on the dyno It has been calibrated and ready to go.

have you got a boost controller or a DFA? The boost controller doesn't need to be set on a dyno. Is it installed and wired up? Any shop should be able to tune a DFA - in principle its the same as a SAFC and they might just take a few minutes to read the instructions if they haven't seen one before.

[Kenna802]

sorry yes it is the dfa just would like someone up here with some experience and not some cowboy in qld

[pyro-ns]

if you're in south burnette, from memory there's only one good tuner near you and he's in hervey bay. no idea what his name is though.

seriously though, this is incredibly simplified tuning. Anyone who can tune properly can use this setup and i'd be willing to be that even most n00bs could pull something decent out of it.

[tranman]

Hi all,

Was wondering if anyone in Melbourne who has done this could give me a hand installing the DFA into my 33? I got the DFA and Hand Controller units already assembled, they were given to me when I bought another car awhile back. In return I could help you polish your car.

Cheers,

Will.

[archieblue]

To all of you out there using the Jaycar IEBC & DFA's a few questions!

Has anyone had any problems / reliability issues with them after the initial setting up?

Has everyone had an increase in economy as well as a good power hike with this kit?

Would you recomend them?

[KiwiRS4T]

I used the Jaycar IEBC for about a year and it was very reliable. The DFA is a better version of the Apexi SAFC. I would only recommend it for a S1 Stagea, but even then you would need an Apexi SITC to do the timing and a Greddy Emanage would probably be better. For a S2 the Nistune chip would be much better value for money as it does the whole range - afrs, timing, speed limit removal, rev limit adjustment etc.

[benro2]

Hey guys, I've got an annoying problem with frying the 10 Ohm resistor in the IEBC. I've started my own thread for this here. Please help!

[KiwiRS4T]

Just skimming back through the thread here's SK's suggestions:

Hi guys, it is not impossible that is is a bad component, but (based on my experience) it is unlikely. Burnt resistors are a sign of excessive load (going through them), so I would work my way through the circuit diagram and check the components on either side of the resistor.

Let's give it a go using the circuit diagram on page 141 of Performance Electronics for Cars;

It's a 10ohm resistor that sits between diode 2 and and zener diode 2 in the power supply circuit comtrolled by reg 1. So I would be checking the polarity of D2, ZD2 and Reg 1 and the value of the 1000uf, 10uf and 1000nf capacitors. I have marked them with red dots on the cicuit layout below (page 137 of Performance Electronics for Cars);.

I know someone has already suggested it, but the problem is in the power supply circuit, so the first thing I make ABSOLUTELY sure of is that the polarity of the power source is correct. Test it at least 3 ways, such as wire colour, multimeter voltage in and multimeter voltage out. The test voltages are shown on the circuit diagram above.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

[KiwiRS4T]

And another couple of tips - make sure you have the exact correct cable to connect to the hand controller and DO NOT switch between maps with out turning the engine off. On my one I made sure of this by by-passing the switch so that I only had one map.

[benro2]

It's a 10ohm resistor that sits between diode 2 and and zener diode 2 in the power supply circuit comtrolled by reg 1. So I would be checking the polarity of D2, ZD2 and Reg 1 and the value of the 1000uf, 10uf and 1000nf capacitors. I have marked them with red dots on the cicuit layout below (page 137 of Performance Electronics for Cars);.

I know someone has already suggested it, but the problem is in the power supply circuit, so the first thing I make ABSOLUTELY sure of is that the polarity of the power source is correct. Test it at least 3 ways, such as wire colour, multimeter voltage in and multimeter voltage out. The test voltages are shown on the circuit diagram above.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Thanks for the help! However, I cannot see either of the images you posted. Perhaps SAU's photo server is temporarily down?

And another couple of tips - make sure you have the exact correct cable to connect to the hand controller and DO NOT switch between maps with out turning the engine off. On my one I made sure of this by by-passing the switch so that I only had one map.

Really?? I didn't know this! I even have a remote mounted switch in the centre stack so I could switch between boost levels! Dammit. What happens if you do switch between boost maps with the engine running? I've already done this several times, didn't seem to do anything (when it was working LOL)??

Also, to try and stop this thread getting any longer, if you wish, you can post replies into my own problem thread here. Thanks!

Also when you say "exact correct cable" do you mean there are other similar types? I've got a cable that fits perfectly and passes all data through, but are you saying there are copies or others that don't quite fit?

Edited December 18, 2011 by benro2