Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[predator]

goodbye BC337

hooked my DFA up just before, and fried a transistor in a smelly fashion. I thought I had double checked everything too. Appears as though I mixed up the polarity for the diode on closer inspection.. so its off to buy another BC337, and I'm probably a whole 20c poorer (poor me). So if constructing at the moment:

a) triple check your double checking

B) don't attempt construction whilst drinking (oops)

c) see B)

[55Nat]

The vent is necessary otherwise there is no way for the boost pressure to get out and, as xRHETTx posted, that means the wastegate will stay open.

A 21psi spring means you can't have less than that as your minimum boost level.

I've done it the way you told me, didn't work

I'll try changing the size of the vent to .5 and give that a go. Will .5 be the right size for upto 30psi of boost? I've got a Turbosmart bleed vale on their atm with the 21psi spring and it works fine.

Is their any other possible way to hook it up?

Thanks again

Nathan

[Oosh]

I've done it the way you told me, didn't work

I'll try changing the size of the vent to .5 and give that a go. Will .5 be the right size for upto 30psi of boost? I've got a Turbosmart bleed vale on their atm with the 21psi spring and it works fine.

Is their any other possible way to hook it up?

Thanks again

Nathan

Try the smaller vent, but you COULD use it like the more common EBC setups with the solenoid on the vent.

Note: the solenoid duty cycle figures will be reveresed for the same result, i.e. 0% (full closed) = standard boost, 100% (full open) = moer boost and the vent shouldn't be restricted in that case.

And you wont get as rapid boost build up and defence against creep.

[Tommyk]

I cant get my iebc working

I dont get a display on the hand controller - im not really sure whats wrong.

When i press down on the parallel port, I get a set of blocks on the first line, but thats all.

Im pretty sure my iebc is connected correctly, and my iebc properly assembled.

Would anyone be keen on lending me their working hand controller ?

Cheers, many thanks

[fusi0n]

Thanks for the diagnosis fusi0n. Assuming it's light enough when I get back to my car today I'll try adding another resistor and un-plugging my hand controller to see if the same thing happens.

someonestolecc,

how did u go with this?

[someonestolecc]

Sorry mate haven't had a chance - been busy selling my XW.

Will do it asa-I can !

[fusi0n]

Sorry mate haven't had a chance - been busy selling my XW.

Will do it asa-I can !

thanks nps.. keep me posted! :headspin:

[Sydneykid]

I cant get my iebc working

I dont get a display on the hand controller - im not really sure whats wrong.

When i press down on the parallel port, I get a set of blocks on the first line, but thats all.

Im pretty sure my iebc is connected correctly, and my iebc properly assembled.

Would anyone be keen on lending me their working hand controller ?

Cheers, many thanks

Sounds like you have a bad solder joint onthe plug, there are lots of connections. Did you solder in the link under the plug before you put the plug in? A few people have left that link out.

[someonestolecc]

I cant get my iebc working

I dont get a display on the hand controller - im not really sure whats wrong.

When i press down on the parallel port, I get a set of blocks on the first line, but thats all.

I second what S-Kid said about the soldering the link under the thing. I missed that one and had to do it on the bottom of the board, it worked fine after that :0

Also, make sure your hand controller is plugged in before you power it up.

Also, check your ICs are in the right spots, I think when I switched them around to the wrong way it did this too.

[Tommyk]

Im sure my ic's are in the right spot. Might just swap them around and see what happens.

That link under the parallel port is soldered. I might have to redo the soldering on the parallel port though

Hope i can get it working

[Rskyline33]

can someone please help, i got the h/c and the iebc together 2 days ago, i plug the 12v and the ground in and the 3 led lit up, the screen on the h/c also lit up but nothing on the screen, i'v checked everything but no luck... do i need to hook up the i/o before i get something on the screen?

[Tommyk]

No you dont need to hook up any i/o

It should work regardless

[pinoi_boi_r33]

adjust the trimpot near the connector on the hand controller. it is brightness/contrast.

[fusi0n]

Hi guys, it is not impossible that is is a bad component, but (based on my experience) it is unlikely.  Burnt resistors are a sign of excessive load (going through them), so I would work my way through the circuit diagram and check the components on either side of the resistor.

Let's give it a go using the circuit diagram on page 141 of Performance Electronics for Cars;

It's a 10ohm resistor that sits between diode 2 and and zener diode 2 in the power supply circuit comtrolled by reg 1.  So I would be checking the polarity of D2, ZD2 and Reg 1 and the value of the 1000uf, 10uf and 1000nf capacitors.  I have marked them with red dots on the cicuit layout below (page 137 of Performance Electronics for Cars);.

I know someone has already suggested it, but the problem is in the power supply circuit, so the first thing I make ABSOLUTELY sure of is that the polarity of the power source is correct.   Test it at least 3 ways, such as wire colour, multimeter voltage in and multimeter voltage out.  The test voltages are shown on the circuit diagram above.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Woohoo!! it's working now..

ok.. the problem was right under my nose.. it was my cable! i had the wrong cable.. silly me grabbed a cable from work thinking it should work.. but never thought the cable could be causing all this!!

Thanks all u guys for ur input!!

Now I just have to install the bugger! :headspin:

[someonestolecc]

Woohoo!! it's working now..

ok.. the problem was right under my nose.. it was my cable! i had the wrong cable.. silly me grabbed a cable from work thinking it should work.. but never thought the cable could be causing all this!!

Thanks all u guys for ur input!!    

Now I just have to install the bugger!  :headspin:

Ah good stuff fusi0n - that's good to hear. Unfortunately that can't be it for me cos it worked before and I bought it from Jaycar (correct cable). Unless there's a bent pin in the controller cable... hmm.. thanks for the theory I'll unplug and see if it kills the resistor.

If you're in Sydney I'm happy to help ya - I'm North Shore area. PM me if that suits.

[fusi0n]

My IEBC is now installed!

I also realised that my factory solenoid (S15) is the normally-open type..

So according to the book I need to connect the 10watt resistor in series with the soleniod.. should I do this at the soleniod or at the ecu where i made the connection..

btw i had to cut the wire at the ecu.. (what happens if my soleniod doesn't get hot and i still install this.. will it matter?)

[fusi0n]

My IEBC is now installed!

I also realised that my factory solenoid (S15) is the normally-open type..  

So according to the book I need to connect the 10watt resistor in series with the soleniod.. should I do this at the soleniod or at the ecu where i made the connection..

btw i had to cut the wire at the ecu.. (what happens if my soleniod doesn't get hot and i still install this.. will it matter?)

I noticed tonight when my car was idling.. the soleniod is quite noisey.. 0% injector duty.. so output is 0% to the soleniod.. since mine is the NO type.. keeping it closed.. this must put quite abit of strain on the soleniod?

thing is before I installed the IEBC i never heard this noise.. is there someway I dodged up the connection to make the soleniod work in reverse?

[Sydneykid]

I noticed tonight when my car was idling.. the soleniod is quite noisey.. 0% injector duty.. so output is 0% to the soleniod.. since mine is the NO type.. keeping it closed.. this must put quite abit of strain on the soleniod?

thing is before I installed the IEBC i never heard this noise.. is there someway I dodged up the connection to make the soleniod work in reverse?

I am surpised that the S15 solenoid is a normally open style. It controls the boost step (as per the ECU instructions) the same as the Skyline solenoids do and they are normally closed style.

At 0% you should have no noise, it should be either open or closed and stay that way. You only get noise (open-close-open-close) when it has duty cycle applied (not 0%).

The simple test is to connect 12 volts to the solenoid and check if it is closed or open. I just use a piece of vacuum hose connected to the solenoid inlet port and blow through it. Using the IEBC for testing normally closed or normally open is not something I would rely on.

Hope that makes sense:cheers:

[someonestolecc]

I have a s15 solenoid and it's NC. If it isn't then by some strange coincidence it works exactly like the instructions say it will for a NC

[fusi0n]

I am surpised that the S15 solenoid is a normally open style.  It controls the boost step (as per the ECU instructions) the same as the Skyline solenoids do and they are normally closed style.  

At 0% you should have no noise, it should be either open or closed and stay that way.  You only get noise (open-close-open-close) when it has duty cycle applied (not 0%).

The simple test is to connect 12 volts to the solenoid and check if it is closed or open.  I just use a piece of vacuum hose connected to the solenoid inlet port and blow through it.  Using the IEBC for testing normally closed or normally open is not something I would rely on.

Hope that makes sense:cheers:

I'll test this out tonight.. I'm surprised my self that it's behaving this way..