Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[Sydneykid]

Thanks Gary.  Sounds good. might set it back to 15deg then. 

Just to make sure, I have the centre plastic piece removed so all the coil packs are exposed.  I am using the wire going to No. 1 coil pack to get the reading for the timing light and unclipping the TPS.  Will this give the correct reading?  I can’t really use the loop at the back.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I foun no difference with the TPS disconnected. Why can't you use the loop at the back?

cheers

[benl1981]

The piece that hooks around the loop (i..e the part of the timing light equipment) doesnt fit inside that small loop. Going over the wire to No.1 cylinder should be the same right?

Why did you pick the glove box to install? What about somewhere underneath near the ECU.

If I want to heat up the 4MHz device now should I remove all the clip in processor bits? Or not necessary.

Thanks again

[Sydneykid]

1. The piece that hooks around the loop (i..e the part of the timing light equipment) doesnt fit inside that small loop.  Going over the wire to No.1 cylinder should be the same right?

2.Why did you pick the glove box to install?  What about somewhere underneath near the ECU. 

3. If I want to heat up the 4MHz device now should I remove all the clip in processor bits?  Or not necessary.

Thanks again

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Suggestion follow;

1. Same, it's just easier to go though the loop, take a look at the picture in the Stagea cambelt and adj pulley thread. It is pretty big loop designed for timing light sensors.

2. No way I could even fit the DFA on its own near the ECU, there is very little space. The wiring harness for the stereo goes around the ECU as well and it soaks up all of the available area. Plus I had the IEBC (same size as the DFA) and the SITC coming later on.

3. Nope, do it fairly quickly, just long enough for the solder to flow.

cheers

[benl1981]

I was thinking of mounting it above where the passengers legs would be (underneath near where the glove box is ) have to have a look and see though.

I'll have a look at the loop but didnt think th one mine was big enough.. It's easy going round the No 1 wire though as I am running the car without the plastic cover.

So it is essential you get the calibration of the DFA 100%, or is it ok if it i within 0.1-0.2 volts. Just that test pot isnt real good.

Are there any safeguards in the case of a missing AFM signal i.e. say for instance the ouput wire to AFM from jaycar device comes out. Would the engine die or would it come up as a fault code and save engine?

Edited September 19, 2005 by benl1981

[inissane]

hey benl1981,

did u sort out that 14 pin thing on the lcd??

im mucking around with that too, cant get the screen to come on with numerals. its a biatch to solder in between em on the lcd side....

[benl1981]

Yeah I had to rotate the adjustment screw on the board to get it to light up. Other than that it wroked straight up. I did solder those bits. Just a dab on each of them. Make sure the DFA or boost control is powered up and that screw on the hand controller board is rotated.

Hope it works out!! I found them both a bit fiddly, was good to get them working - will be even better when installed and tuned hopefully...

[benl1981]

Hey SK

1. Is it essential you get the calibration of the DFA 100%, or is it ok if it i within 0.1-0.2 volts. Just that test pot isnt real good.

2. Are there any safeguards in the case of a missing AFM signal i.e. say for instance the ouput wire to AFM from jaycar device comes out. Would the engine die or would it come up as a fault code and save engine?

3. Did you leave the DFA in Fine mode (you have to put the link in for coarse)

Edited September 19, 2005 by benl1981

[Sydneykid]

Hey SK

1. Is it essential you get the calibration of the DFA 100%, or is it ok if it i within 0.1-0.2 volts. Just that test pot isnt real good.

2. Are there any safeguards in the case of a missing AFM signal i.e. say for instance the ouput wire to AFM from jaycar device comes out. Would the engine die or would it come up as a fault code and save engine?

3. Did you leave the DFA in Fine mode (you have to put the link in for coarse)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Suggestions to your questions follow;

1. I got mine to within 0.01 volts, I did the final trimming in the car.

2. No AFM signal = no airflow, so the engine stops. Actually it drops to idle, doesn't actually stop. Then you just join the DFA input and output wires together and drive home with standard tune. It's a good "limp home" safeguard.

3. I don't remember putiing the link in, so I guess it must be in fine mode. Tuning it didn't need a large amount of correction, fine mode was plenty enough. Plus I liked the extra accuracy.

cheers

[benl1981]

Nice... a few more questions..sorry about this..

1. You did final trimming in the car. Was that with the car at idle hovering around 1v or something?

2. WIth regard to saving the engine: How does it go back to idle - you have throttle flap fully open at full throttle does it cut the ignition?

3. How did you get the wires through the back of the glovebox? Did you drill a hole somewhere? I see what you mean there is not much room around anywhere underneath on that side

4. For the +12v supply to Jaycar device did you use a constant power 12v?? or one that is IGN switched? Just wondering if it needs onstant 12v for memory. I know you play with the trimpot so the realy cuts in at around 13.8 v but not sure if it uses the 12v constant for memory...What is best to use - IGN or constant..??

Edited September 20, 2005 by benl1981

[Sydneykid]

Nice... a few more questions..sorry about this..

1. You did final trimming in the car.  Was that with the car at idle hovering around 1v or something?

2. WIth regard to saving the engine: How does it go back to idle - you have throttle flap fully open at full throttle does it cut the ignition? 

3. How did you get the wires through the back of the glovebox?  Did you drill a hole somewhere?  I see what you mean there is not much room around anywhere underneath on that side

4. For the +12v supply to Jaycar device did you use a constant power 12v?? or one that is IGN switched? Just wondering if it needs onstant 12v for memory.  I know you play with the trimpot so the realy cuts in at around 13.8 v but not sure if it uses the 12v constant for memory...What is best to use - IGN or constant..??

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Suggestions to your questions follow;

1. I checked it at several voltages, it's not that hard as you are measuring comparing in and out voltages. It is easier with 2 people though, one to hold the rpm constant and one to check the voltages.

2. The lack of an AFM signal tells the ECU that there is no airflow, the ECU doesn't care what the TPS says in this case. No airflow = no fuel required. So the ECU turns off the fuel. Before you ask, this is not lean running, it is the same as the ECU cutting the fuel on coasting/overun. There is no detonation and no chance of damage to the engine. The ECU then adds fuel when the engine needs it to idle, which is RPM sensitive. You will also get a dash warning, due to the lack of an AFM signal. If you don't reconnect the AFM wires (bypass the DFA) the ECU will go into limp home mode (super rich and 2,500 rpm limit) and you can drive it that way.

3. There is enough room above the glovebox for the wiring harness, no need to drill holes. Yep, the ECU is a tight fit allright.

4. All of my wiring for the SITC, DFA and IEBC was done at the ECU, I did not run wires to anywhere else. They don't need a constant power supply, they remember the mapping with no power. They only need power when the ECU needs power, so I wired them in parrallel to the ECU (switched) power supply and earth.

Hope that was of some help

cheers

[inissane]

so i turns the screen on and all i get is blocks on the top line of the hand controller, light comes on ok and turning the little plastic screw works makes the blocks on the top line lighter and darker.....

problem is there aint no letters like output input or h or l like there should be, its connected to the IEBC and is installed in the car all wired up

anyone had this happen, any ideas?? have i stuffed up the IEBC somehow im sure the hand controller is constructed fine its basic

[Sydneykid]

so i turns the screen on and all i get is blocks on the top line of the hand controller, light comes on ok and turning the little plastic screw works makes the blocks on the top line lighter and darker.....

problem is there aint no letters like output input or h or l like there should be, its connected to the IEBC and is installed in the car all wired up

anyone had this happen, any ideas?? have i stuffed up the IEBC somehow im sure the hand controller is constructed fine its basic

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Some suggestions;

The Controller has to be plugged into the IEBC before you turn the power on to the IEBC.

Did you test the IEBC before you put it in the car?

On the Controller, have you put the hidden link in? It goes under the DB25 socket. A lot of people have missed it.

Do you have the right cable? There are so many DB25 cables that have twists in the pin outs.

These are the common issues I have seen, hope it is of some help.

cheers

[xRHETTx]

The Controller has to be plugged into the IEBC before you turn the power on to the IEBC.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah careful with this, nowhere does it say the controller has to be plugged in first.

I didnt plug it in beforehand the first time and i spent ages trying to work out what was wrong... then i plugged it in and it was working all along.

[inissane]

thanks SK and rhett,

hmmm, yeh got that little link hidden in the controller fine and had the controller plugged in first and got the db25 cable from jaycar should be the right one i hope.

elbee said maybe the dot and line chips are the wrong way around, would it do that i dunno, might give that a try too

[DazWah]

on the iebc how do u tune the pot?

[NewKleer]

on the iebc how do u tune the pot?

doesnt it tell you that in the documentation that comes with it?

i just got my DFA installed today (rb20 nics redtop). i also put a switch in to bypass the DFA in case of problems, as mine at one stage when i was calibrating it just didnt work, then suddenly worked again later (and has since).

one thing i noticed was the exhaust note was different with the DFA on (but no adjustments). it was like there were tiny variations in it, as if theyre were mini-misfires (but at the same time didnt sound that "bad").

im thinking i should use fine mode with DFA, as although my afr are probably around 10 or so, the range of the rb20 nics afm is 2.5-4V roughly (1.6v with IGN, 2.5 idle, max around 4 or so) so fine is probably, well, fine?

how do u check for pre-ignition on a dyno (or in general?). do dynos have knock sensors/mics they hook up, or rely on the rich/retard drop in power? how far should u ease back once u get some pinging?

Edited October 8, 2005 by NewKleer

[Sydneykid]

doesnt it tell you that in the documentation that comes with it?

i just got my DFA installed today (rb20 nics redtop). i also put a switch in to bypass the DFA in case of problems, as mine at one stage when i was calibrating it just didnt work, then suddenly worked again later (and has since).

1. one thing i noticed was the exhaust note was different with the DFA on (but no adjustments). it was like there were tiny variations in it, as if theyre were mini-misfires (but at the same time didnt sound that "bad").

2. im thinking i should use fine mode with DFA, as although my afr are probably around 10 or so, the range of the rb20 nics afm is 2.5-4V roughly (1.6v with IGN, 2.5 idle, max around 4 or so) so fine is probably, well, fine?

3. how do u check for pre-ignition on a dyno (or in general?). do dynos have knock sensors/mics they hook up, or rely on the rich/retard drop in power?

4. how far should u ease back once u get some pinging?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Suggestions to your questions follow;

1. There should be no difference, the engine should run exactly the same. I strongly suggest you check the input and output voltages across the whole range of AFM voltages

2. I use fine mode, I reckon course mod is only necessary for AFM and/or injector size changes

3. Our race team dyno guy uses his carefully calibrated ears, he can pick pre-ignition from the other side of the workshop. I use mechanics ears (microphone, amp and headphones).

Most good workshops have them

4. Until the pre-ignition stops

Hope that was of some help

cheers

Edited October 8, 2005 by Sydneykid

[NewKleer]

4. Until the pre-ignition stops

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

only thing is ive never actually heard an engine pre-ignite...should it be something that will sound very obvious, or will it take someone who knows what theyre listening for to hear it?

and should it be decreased a bit less below when pre-ignition stops to account for other factors (eg hot days, bad fuel etc) or for the typical application is the timing advance going to be the major cause (and thus need an extremely hot day to get the heat alone to cause it to detonation?).

i guess what im asking is what would be the minimal adjustment on the DFA to bring it back once detonation occurs...1 or 2, 10, etc?

cheers

Edited October 9, 2005 by NewKleer

[mr_squiggle_1]

hey guys,

I have just built the iebc and hand controller, thing is i believe i have done it correctly but i wudnt mind some piccies of other peoples that work so i can compare them against mine to make sure its done right. Pm me for my email addy if you cant post them.

Neil

[Sydneykid]

only thing is ive never actually heard an engine pre-ignite...should it be something that will sound very obvious, or will it take someone who knows what theyre listening for to hear it?

and should it be decreased a bit less below when pre-ignition stops to account for other factors (eg hot days, bad fuel etc) or for the typical application is the timing advance going to be the major cause (and thus need an extremely hot day to get the heat alone to cause it to detonation?).

i guess what im asking is what would be the minimal adjustment on the DFA to bring it back once detonation occurs...1 or 2, 10, etc?

cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Light pre-igntion is a ting ting ting sound, heavy detonation is closer to knock knock knock. There are sound wave files floating around of cars pre-igniting, do a search and have a good listen.

The standard ECU has temperature compensation, via the engine water temp and the AFM. A dyno is a pretty harsh environment, the engine is working at 180 kph but there is only the dyno fan pointed at the radiator, not a 180 kph gail blowing over the whole car. If you tune it for zero preignition on the dyno, then it shouldn't have any on the road. The standard ECU has knock detection and appropriate mapping on the rare occasions that it becomes an issue.

cheers