Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[KiwiRS4T]

I have a problem with this ebc.

Followed the instructions, did exactly what it told me to do, I never done electronics since year 10, I'm 110% certain that I have the correct port.

So this is what I bought:

Finishing soldering connect 12v to accessories and earth to see that the ebc and hand controller are in good working order.

Turned the ignition on and I got black boxes, double checked everything to see if I had the correct port plug (which I did), could no make what the problem was.

On the IEBC the led closes to port (from this picture top right corner) was on, also the instruction manual says that IC1 has a dot and IC2 has a line but the chips on my kit didn't have that so swapped IC1 with IC2 while testing to see if this was the cause of my problem, and then some component fused out (don't no which one) so now I'm not getting power to the hand controller, included some high resolution pics.

I still get the red led on but the big capacitor (bottom right, looks like a battery) does not heat up like usual.

You have got the chips the wrong way round. If you look on the instructions you will see that they both have the same PIC number but IC1 has written to the left , vertically, the number EZ8996 and

IC2 has printed left to right just below it (LINE) EZ8997 and these numbers are printed on the chips ...also can't see from your photo but cutouts on the chips have to go as per the printed diagram ( up for LC1 and to the left for LC2)

Other things to check (can't see from your photo) is that the jumpers should be left off (or removed) from LK1 and LK3 but the one on LK2 should already be in the right place. The usual reason for lack of display is that you need to turn the trimpot all the way up (clockwise I think).

If you think you have damaged a component you should be able to get a replacement from Jaycar.

There is a link that some people forget ( I can't see mine just now its in the car ) but I think there is one that goes undert the DB25 socket - I''l have a look when its daylight and check.

Some warnings: always plug in the hand controller before powering up. Also it seems a good idea not to switch between boost maps while powered up. (I plan to use one map only anyway). I have these kits for ages and have only just finished them (I would have bought them assembled if I could) but haven't got around to installing them so I will try to install at tleast the IEBC in the morning.

[DaveB]

Some warnings: always plug in the hand controller before powering up.

x2 - that leaves you with a row of black boxes too.

[LZY115]

Thx KiwiRS4T, I did plug the iebc with the hand controller before turning the power on and I adjusted the trimpod but all I got was boxes, in that pics I have the IC's in the wrong place but they originally in the correct place(I swapped them around just to check if the instructions were incorrect).

In regards to the Links you can adjust these even if your not using them

Anyway the PCB is melted from 12v, i think I left the low high boost in-between (i think), whats interesting is I didn't blown the fuse.

I have some question for my second kit!

The 3 red leds, do they go only one way as the diagram is showing A and flat side K.

The 22 crystalls (<X2 10Mhz> and <X1 20Mhz>) from the diagram the one closes to the port shows a link nex to the crystall and, bottom right shows the other crystall with links, are these supposto to be fused on?

The resistors, can they go both ways?

And last whats the trimpod on the IEBC used for?

Edited September 14, 2008 by LZY115

[zr240]

HI all

Hopefully someone can offer some advice as I have built the jaycar boost controller for my rb25det motor.

The issue I have is I cannot get a satble reading in run mode for the duty cycle. I have tried adjusting the trim pot but it is ether 1 or 64 and if I move the trimpot carfully I can get one point were the duty cycle just fluctuates up and down\. Everything else works???

any advice would be greatly apperciated as Ithe only info I can find is saying it can be uneven if you have peak hol;d injectors and havent found any info about you guys needing the adaptor for these???

Thanks

Ash

[KiwiRS4T]

Thx KiwiRS4T, I did plug the iebc with the hand controller before turning the power on and I adjusted the trimpod but all I got was boxes, in that pics I have the IC's in the wrong place but they originally in the correct place(I swapped them around just to check if the instructions were incorrect).

In regards to the Links you can adjust these even if your not using them

Anyway the PCB is melted from 12v, i think I left the low high boost in-between (i think), whats interesting is I didn't blown the fuse.

I have some question for my second kit!

The 3 red leds, do they go only one way as the diagram is showing A and flat side K.

The 22 crystalls (<X2 10Mhz> and <X1 20Mhz>) from the diagram the one closes to the port shows a link nex to the crystall and, bottom right shows the other crystall with links, are these supposto to be fused on?

The resistors, can they go both ways?

And last whats the trimpod on the IEBC used for?

Sorry I am by no means an electronic expert. I built the controller myself but needed help for the other two. I know that the resistors can go either way and the trimpot in the IEBC is needed for fine tuning.

[KiwiRS4T]

HI all

Hopefully someone can offer some advice as I have built the jaycar boost controller for my rb25det motor.

The issue I have is I cannot get a satble reading in run mode for the duty cycle. I have tried adjusting the trim pot but it is ether 1 or 64 and if I move the trimpot carfully I can get one point were the duty cycle just fluctuates up and down\. Everything else works??? ******Have you observed this while driving the car ? The duty cycle will not vary much in a no load (neutral) situation***

any advice would be greatly apperciated as Ithe only info I can find is saying it can be uneven if you have peak hol;d injectors and havent found any info about you guys needing the adaptor for these???

Thanks

Ash

I'm not the best person to give advice but I know that the RB25DET does not have peak hold injectors. 64 seems to be the default reading. Have you tried making adjustments with the buttons or pushing the reset button? I'm pretty sure the trimpot on the IEBC needs to be full on . (Actually have reread the instructions and the trimpot is needed for fine tuning.

[LZY115]

HI all

Hopefully someone can offer some advice as I have built the jaycar boost controller for my rb25det motor.

The issue I have is I cannot get a satble reading in run mode for the duty cycle. I have tried adjusting the trim pot but it is ether 1 or 64 and if I move the trimpot carfully I can get one point were the duty cycle just fluctuates up and down\. Everything else works???

any advice would be greatly apperciated as Ithe only info I can find is saying it can be uneven if you have peak hol;d injectors and havent found any info about you guys needing the adaptor for these???

Thanks

Ash

Link 2 negative --- solenoid stays shut with 0% duty cycle and stays fully open at 100% duty cycle

positive --- solenoid stays open with 0% duty cycle and stays fully closed at 100% duty cycle

The manual recommends you leave it as negative, this may not be the case with your problem, also check if your actuator is a "normal open" or normally closed which is preferable.

Link1 and 3 should be left out.

Link 4 should be negative and 5 positive

Edited September 15, 2008 by LZY115

[LZY115]

Ok guys from what I have been told there have been some updates on the board used for the hand controller.

https://secure.vividcluster.crox.net.au/jay...Name=Automotive

[DaveB]

Hi all, thought this info might be useful, reproduced from the Jaycar forums from the link above (thanks to LZY115!):

I have just completed the hand controller and IEBC unit. There is indeed a missing connection on the updated printed circuit board for the hand controller.

There should be a connection between pin 14 on the LCD display module to pin 10 on the DB25 socket. In reality these two PCB pads are very close together and can be linked by a small solder bridge. Without this connection your LCD display on the hand controller will show a line of black boxes on the top line.

Also take note on what the instructions say about connecting the hand controller to your main module before powering up the main module.

Edited September 27, 2008 by DaveB

[LZY115]

In regards to my previous post the new boards do no have this problem.

I finally got mine working. Things that I did wrong was bad solder, solder bridges, incorrect led installation, thats it, I do agree you do need some basic understand about electronics.

Also you have to check with a multimeter for continuity (low ohms connection) between pin 4 of the LCD module in the hand controller and pin 13 of IC2 of the IEBC for low ohms. Also check for continuity between pin 6 of the LCD module and pin 10 of IC2, pin 14 of the LCD module and pin 9 of IC2, pin 13 of the LCD module and pin 8 of IC2, pin 12 of the LCD module and pin 7 of IC2 and also pin 11 of the LCD module and pin 6 of IC2. Make sure that there is not a short between adjacent connections.

Everything is working except for the solenoid, tried it with hoses connect both ways and they dont work. Seem to be getting 5psi only. Not too certain is this has anything to do with me running a haltech.

Is there a problem in using injector 2, i can not locate injector 1 on the ecm loom(s15) 101 W/G, pin out 101 on mine is W/Black.

Edited September 27, 2008 by LZY115

[KiwiRS4T]

In regards to my previous post the new boards do no have this problem.

I finally got mine working. Things that I did wrong was bad solder, solder bridges, incorrect led installation, thats it, I do agree you do need some basic understand about electronics.

Also you have to check with a multimeter for continuity (low ohms connection) between pin 4 of the LCD module in the hand controller and pin 13 of IC2 of the IEBC for low ohms. Also check for continuity between pin 6 of the LCD module and pin 10 of IC2, pin 14 of the LCD module and pin 9 of IC2, pin 13 of the LCD module and pin 8 of IC2, pin 12 of the LCD module and pin 7 of IC2 and also pin 11 of the LCD module and pin 6 of IC2. Make sure that there is not a short between adjacent connections.

Everything is working except for the solenoid, tried it with hoses connect both ways and they dont work. Seem to be getting 5psi only. Not too certain is this has anything to do with me running a haltech.

Is there a problem in using injector 2, i can not locate injector 1 on the ecm loom(s15) 101 W/G, pin out 101 on mine is W/Black.

No any injector will do (tap in only)

Have you tested the solenoid to make sure it is normally closed?

Cut the solenoid wire from the ecu and replaced the signal to solenoid with the one from EIBC?

Routed the pipes correctly? From boost pipe to solenoid , solenoid to T ...one to actuator other side back to inlet (this one has the restrictor - make hole diameter bigger for more boost.)NB note correction...I wrongly put "make hole smaller" before I deleted that post.

I had a quick look on Google and there are a number of s15 ecu pinout charts both agree that 101 in no 1 injector - some say W/G and some W/B so you will probably be OK. Solenoid is 115 o/b

[LZY115]

^^^ Piping is correct, I dont think the solenoid is working,while listening there isn't that buzz noise the solenoid (I think) makes, s15 are a NC type, fusion on posts 16 17 on this thread had the same issue, their NC.

So should i a)joing the solenoid wire to the ecu or b) cut the wire from the ecu and wire it directly the IEBC?

In not too certain if this makes a difference but im running a haltech e8 with plug in adaptor for the wiring loom and map sensor, im almost sure that this wont make a difference.

So far im only getting 5psi, the solenoid can only go two ways and I tried both, I still get 5psi.

First Im going to check for blown fuses, then manually operate the solenoid to check for malfunctions, last will be the wiring.

One last thing, the solenoid as two wires O and O/B, im assuming O is for earth?

[KiwiRS4T]

^^^ Piping is correct, I dont think the solenoid is working,while listening there isn't that buzz noise the solenoid (I think) makes, s15 are a NC type, fusion on posts 16 17 on this thread had the same issue, their NC.

So should i a)joing the solenoid wire to the ecu or b) cut the wire from the ecu and wire it directly the IEBC?

In not too certain if this makes a difference but im running a haltech e8 with plug in adaptor for the wiring loom and map sensor, im almost sure that this wont make a difference.

So far im only getting 5psi, the solenoid can only go two ways and I tried both, I still get 5psi.

First Im going to check for blown fuses, then manually operate the solenoid to check for malfunctions, last will be the wiring.

One last thing, the solenoid as two wires O and O/B, im assuming O is for earth?

You need to cut the wire from the ecu and tape it up - the ecu no longer connects to the solenoid- and connect the other end that goes to the solenoid to the black wire from the IEBC. The colour code you mention for the solenoid wires sounds right but I can't confirm as i have a Stagea.

With the solenoid closed or not working at all you should be getting full boost -whatever your turbo can make (1bar+ ) as the actuator should not be working at all. Have you started off with your IEBC set to zero?

[LZY115]

^^^^^^^^^^^Im probrably not getting full boost due to vent between the solenoid and the actuator??

Maybe the hole is too big, I might block the hole completly and see what occurs.

Yeah, IEBC had 0% duty on all 64 points.

Ill cut the wire of the ecu (O/b) and wire it directly to the IEBC and block the vent hole.

In regards to the piping.

Orginal: 1- solenoid to t piece which goes to vac source and actuator

2- solenoid to intake pipe

IEBC: 1- solenoid to t piece which goes to actuator and vent goes to intake pipe

2- solenoid to vac source

[KiwiRS4T]

^^^^^^^^^^^Im probrably not getting full boost due to vent between the solenoid and the actuator??

Maybe the hole is too big, I might block the hole completly and see what occurs.

Yeah, IEBC had 0% duty on all 64 points.

Ill cut the wire of the ecu (O/b) and wire it directly to the IEBC and block the vent hole.

In regards to the piping.

Orginal: 1- solenoid to t piece which goes to vac source and actuator

2- solenoid to intake pipe

IEBC: 1- solenoid to t piece which goes to actuator and vent goes to intake pipe

2- solenoid to vac source

If you have the hoses the right way round (on my car the pipe from the intercooler giving boost goes to the top pipe of the solenoid and the bottom pipe is the outlet) then if the IEBC is set to zero then no pressure should be getting through the solenoid and thus nothing going to the actuator or to the vent so blocking the vent will make no difference. It sounds as though the wiring is the problem and if you do as you say above that will hopefully fix it. At zero setting you should get full boost and then you can gradually turn up the numbers to bring the boost on more gradually and to limit the max boost and then turn the numbers down again when the turbo runs out of puff. Then you can adjust the size of the vent (make it bigger) to bring the boost on earlier although if that makes the IEBC work too hard at max boost (more then 80% duty cycle) then you could reduce the size of the vent a little.

BTW I'm not sure you have the original piping correct but anyway here is a photo of how it should be now (see post #41)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=40

[LZY115]

^^^Makes sense I should be seeing infinite boost, almost 100% certain that its the electrical wire going to the solenoid or the solenoid itself.

This is the pic of a s15 one, factory piping the top part (piping that is blocked) goes to the vac sour and actuator via t piece.

Edited September 29, 2008 by LZY115

[LZY115]

^^^Makes sense I should be seeing infinite boost, almost 100% certain that its the electrical wire going to the solenoid or the solenoid itself.

Im using this pic as a reference

This is the pic of a s15 one, factory piping the top part (piping that is blocked) goes to the vac sour and actuator via t piece.

[LZY115]

Its working its working!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

On the s15 the way the piping goes is the same. Its just that everything looks different.

What I did wrong was joined the actuator wire, what I should have done was cut the wire off the ecu and joing it directly to the iebc.

This thread saved me from constante swearing, thanks KiwiRS4T and guys.

[LZY115]

Its working its working!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

On the s15 the way the piping goes is the same. Its just that everything looks different.

What I did wrong was joined the actuator wire, what I should have done was cut the wire off the ecu and joing it directly to the iebc.

This thread saved me from constante swearing, thanks KiwiRS4T and guys.

[**RB2530**]

Hey all,

I have built the digital fuel adjuster kit but have lost the instructions. The kit works fine but I need to adjust the trim pots and I am just guessing with the instructions. Does anyone have an electronic copy of the instructions they can pm me... Or is there anyone in newy with the instructions that I borrow for a day to make a copy?