Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I have built the digital fuel adjuster kit but have lost the instructions. The kit works fine but I need to adjust the trim pots and I am just guessing with the instructions. Does anyone have an electronic copy of the instructions they can pm me... Or is there anyone in newy with the instructions that I borrow for a day to make a copy?

Don't guess - failure without an AFR meter could be disaster! If no-one has an electronic copy then you could try the Jaycar website or even email Jaycar for an electronic version. If all else fails I can copy and post to you (but this would be a last resort as it could take a week from here).

Bob

  • Replies 1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yep thanks for the replies...

I meant guess as far as bench top calibration of the controller itself...Not guess wrt to tuning on the car... There a 3 multiturn and 1 single turn trimpots that basically calibrate the unit and set the ranges etc.

I will try Jaycar tonight or on the weekend..If I have no luck I will take you up on your offer...

cheers

I've read through most of this but couldn't find the answer I was looking for.

I have an R34 GTT so it has the dual boost solenoid.

Was just wondering if I can still use this solenoid with the Jaycar IEBC?

At the moment I have the solenoid earthed to the chassis to cancel out the dual stage.

When I use the IEBC will it still be dual stage or single stage? Not 100% sure.

Thanks

I've read through most of this but couldn't find the answer I was looking for.

I have an R34 GTT so it has the dual boost solenoid.

Was just wondering if I can still use this solenoid with the Jaycar IEBC?

At the moment I have the solenoid earthed to the chassis to cancel out the dual stage.

When I use the IEBC will it still be dual stage or single stage? Not 100% sure.

Thanks

Your solenoid is not dual boost. It cycles at two different rates determined by the ECU. The IEBC is wired in to replace this function of the ECU and will cause the solenoid to cycle at up to 64 different rates. It is not a good practice to earth the solenoid permanently. You would be better to reroute the hoses (bypassing the solenoid altogether) as per the ten minute fix detailed in the Jaycar thread. I'm too tired to put in a link for you but let me know if you can't find it and i"ll do that tonight (that's tomorrow AU time).

Your solenoid is not dual boost. It cycles at two different rates determined by the ECU. The IEBC is wired in to replace this function of the ECU and will cause the solenoid to cycle at up to 64 different rates. It is not a good practice to earth the solenoid permanently. You would be better to reroute the hoses (bypassing the solenoid altogether) as per the ten minute fix detailed in the Jaycar thread. I'm too tired to put in a link for you but let me know if you can't find it and i"ll do that tonight (that's tomorrow AU time).

That's all I needed to know.

I've read through how to do the reroute so will do that and wire the solenoid back up the way it was before.

Thanks KiwiRS4T for that info.

  • 2 months later...

anyone having luck with these units? I'm halfway through installation however my IEBC unit it not showing anything on the output circuit, it shows 10 to 12v, which is defiantely not right as it should be a grounded switching circuit. If I remove the output led, the 12v stops but I still can't get the solenoid to function. I've checked all teh diodes and links and everything looks right, I suspect once of the IC's isn't working correctly but I have no idea how to test them. Anyone had similar issues?

Cheers,

Matt

  • 2 weeks later...

Thought i'd at least put up how I'm going with my setup, I redid all the solder joints and tested them all, turns out it was a dud LED on the output circuit that was screwing things up for me, going to do a boost curve tune tomorrow, but here are some pics of the install, I relocated the status LED's, hi/low map switch and put in some indicators for good measure. Let me know what you think, I'm quite happy with how it turned out.

I'll let the pictures do most of hte explaining :P:)

post-31196-1232868715_thumb.jpg

Wiring harnesses from the car ready to connect to the boost controller

post-31196-1232868752_thumb.jpg

Boost controller ready to go in, the blue cable is the extension for the LED's which I mounted off the main the unit (cable is actually Cat5 :))

post-31196-1232868774_thumb.jpg

Close up of 6 pin plugs

post-31196-1232868795_thumb.jpg

Wiring before tidy up, breakout board for 12V that I built on the left, boost controller mounted on the right under the dash

post-31196-1232868818_thumb.jpg

Another shot of the boost controller

post-31196-1232868864_thumb.jpg

Another shot with boost controller mounted

post-31196-1232868887_thumb.jpg

High/Low boost switch

post-31196-1232868909_thumb.jpg

Mounted the 3 status leds in the ash tray (power, input, output), LED's on the right are the indicators for high/low boost maps

post-31196-1232868927_thumb.jpg

Close up of LED box with labels

post-31196-1232868951_thumb.jpg

All hidden away :)

post-31196-1232868973_thumb.jpg

All turned on

post-31196-1232868989_thumb.jpg

All turned on, no flash this time

post-31196-1232869018_thumb.jpg

Wide angle shot with controller in glove box

post-31196-1232869037_thumb.jpg

All lights are go! high map selected and output circuit all lit up

post-31196-1232869053_thumb.jpg

Boost controller

Enjoy! :)

Very neat! Have you got it working? Tip if you haven't - set the input to 0 and stand outside the car by the solenoid while you turn up the output and hear when the solenoid starts cycling - it probably won't do anything until about output level 6

yeah solenoid is functioning, at start up it moves between 4-6 on the input, after it warms up drops to 2-3 i've messed with the solenoid settings and you can hear/feel the solenoid chatting so it all looks goo so far!

will know tomorrow once I start messing with the boost maps, i've got the new pumbing done just got to actually put it in. How far have you got with yours?

matt

Edited by 33driver
yeah solenoid is functioning, at start up it moves between 4-6 on the input, after it warms up drops to 2-3 i've messed with the solenoid settings and you can hear/feel the solenoid chatting so it all looks goo so far!

will know tomorrow once I start messing with the boost maps, i've got the new pumbing done just got to actually put it in. How far have you got with yours?

matt

Was working perfectly holding 10lb with the stock turbo and 16 with my GCG turbo. Small hiccup, wrote the car off just looking for another RS4T!
Was working perfectly holding 10lb with the stock turbo and 16 with my GCG turbo. Small hiccup, wrote the car off just looking for another RS4T!

Small hiccup??? Damn! What happened - pics?

ok so went out and tuned it today, was a little frustrating reading the manual as it contradicts itself a lot, however think I have it worked out.

I'm at 100% boost solenoid at about input 33 for stockish boost (maybe a tad more). So i'm working on getting a smooth map happening, I did have some funky spike towards the end of the map, however seem to have got that under control after feathering the end of the map back to 0.

What i'm having trouble with is initial surge, if i'm at 500rpm, floor it in say 3rd, it spikes up to 1bar (about 15psi) before settling down as the load points come down and revs go up.

I figure its just playing with how it comes on boost, but would be interested to see what your (or anyones) boost maps are like? Haven't done anything with the high map yet, want to get the low map working.

Cheers,

Matt

ok so went out and tuned it today, was a little frustrating reading the manual as it contradicts itself a lot, however think I have it worked out.

I'm at 100% boost solenoid at about input 33 for stockish boost (maybe a tad more). So i'm working on getting a smooth map happening, I did have some funky spike towards the end of the map, however seem to have got that under control after feathering the end of the map back to 0.

What i'm having trouble with is initial surge, if i'm at 500rpm, floor it in say 3rd, it spikes up to 1bar (about 15psi) before settling down as the load points come down and revs go up.

I figure its just playing with how it comes on boost, but would be interested to see what your (or anyones) boost maps are like? Haven't done anything with the high map yet, want to get the low map working.

Cheers,

Matt

You don't want to be at 100% boost solenoid - you need to make your vent smaller untl your max solenoid load is about 70 -80%max

i've set the vent size at 2mm, which i thought would be small enough, I've noticed that if i set it to say 50 - 80% it makes the same boost? How did you actually adjust the amount of boost it was pushing?

Am I reading this correctly, the higher the percentage the more boost? As that doesn't appear to be whats happening, that said, it could be that the vent size is too big. I've fixed the surge at the start i think, was loading it in second gear, but should have done it in third as it hits full load quicker, so it was trying to boost earlier.

But i still don't understand how to adjust the 'boost level'.

ok just messed with the settings again, i put my highest limit to 72%, same map all round and its now boosting high consistently i THINK so I think i'm getting it into the right range. I think if I put it down to about 60% i'll be at stock boost level (roughly) then I should be good to go. What vent sizing and sort of peak psi were you hitting?

ok just messed with the settings again, i put my highest limit to 72%, same map all round and its now boosting high consistently i THINK so I think i'm getting it into the right range. I think if I put it down to about 60% i'll be at stock boost level (roughly) then I should be good to go. What vent sizing and sort of peak psi were you hitting?
I've no idea about the size of the vent because i had a needle valve on that line and just wound it up or down to suit. I observed the boost without the EBC to see when it came in and with the GCG that was in the 2000 rev band and would go off the scale if I let it. I had to limit boost at low revs to about 10psi otherwise I would get surging but over about 3000 built it up to 16 and turned down the EBC at the top to maintain boost. You really need two people to do it safely or you''ll end up doing 180 while not watching where you're going!! You don't really need two boost maps because boost is basically controlled by your right foot, not rpm so I could lend my car to a couple of old ladies and they could drive it no problem. Later I developed two maps -one for nights ( I am a night shift workerand drive quite a bit at night) and another for hot days (turn down the ebc a bit to allow some more flow ).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...