Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay - these kits are a peice of cake.

I haven't tested mine yet - I have yet to find the solenoid in my car :Bang: - but it seemed to be really easy compared to the shift light kit.

So ... if anyone needs any help putting this together I'd be happy to help, unforunately though I can't help putting it into the car itself as I still haven't figured out how to do that :)

Does anyone know what a solenoid in a sr20 looks like? :P

  • Replies 1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey SkylineGeoff, do you want to organise a group buy and I can use my trade account to order you guys the gear at cost price. I don't have the time to do the logistics, but can put in the order for you.

SydneyKid, you tuned the IEBC and DFA on the dyno, I just have a quick question. I have quite a good knowlege of how all this works and am planning on building the DFA kit first for my 180. My question is - do you think it's hard or easy to tune/adjust the load points on the road? Its just that I don't have access to a dyno unfortunately, or a wide-band O2 sensor :) I'm thinking of building an 'intelligent air/fuel ratio kit' that Silicon Chip published years ago, however still being a narrow-band O2 sensor, it won't be that accurate.  But my car is very rich and so leaning by any extent can only be good :)

Also to those who are having problems with the building of these kits, I've seen up on Autospeed website when looking at these kits (they sell them too), they also have pre-built and tested versions they sell. Might be a bit more expensive, but I thought maybe it'll help to know for others planning on getting their hands on these kits.

Hi I actually tuned the IEBC mostly on the road. I had a boost gauge as my reference and the rest is feel. How quick do I want the boost build etc. If I didn't have a boost gauge, I wouldn't have been able to tune it.

So I don't really suggest tuning the DFA without an A/F Ratio "gauge". You can get them for around $US400 now as the supply has opened up a lot over the last couple of years. Wide band lambda sensors are also getting quite cheap as the volume steadily increases (around $US150). I reckon you could use a wide band lambda sensor with the IAFRK, but I haven't tried it personally. You would of course have to be careful with sensor temperature stability to get reliable results.

I have started another thread on A/F ratio meters, I would appreciate any input.

:D

Ok I may have spoke too soon :D

I built the kit and all seems good but when I turned it on I noticed nothing would light up except LED2 - (the LED closest to the middle of the PCB).

I looked at the hand controller and it said INPUT 1 and it was in RUN mode. Strange I thought shouldn't it be in VIEW mode?

Lets re-read the documentation. So I did that and noticed I had stupidly followed the picture with my jumper settings, so I removed LK 1 and LK 3 as directed.

This time I turned it on and only LED2 was on again and the this time INPUT 64 on the h/c but still in RUN mode.

What the...? I think ok, maybe I switched around IC1 and IC2, so I switched them around..

Again turned the unit on, this time LED 1 was also on (the middle LED, which I think is the power), but the h/c display was all boxes. I thought that's wrong, so I switched the ICs back and sure enough it went back to LED2 being the only light on and the h/c showing INPUT 64 in RUN mode.

Have I somehow inadvertently taught it a new pulsing frequency (by turning it on the first time with the LK1 and LK3 jumpers in) which happened to be blank (ie no frequency), therefore it's registering no frequency as activity and that way always staying in RUN mode?

I don't understand why the power light was never on, according to my diagrams this should be the middle LED (ie. LED1 in the diagram).

I don't think I've massively stuffed anything up because when I click the L and H switch sure enough the h/c shows it's going into L and H modes.

So why can't I get out of RUN mode? From reading the documentation that should only occur if there's an input, yet, I haven't hooked anything up to the I/O terminals.

I can confirm my LEDs are in the correct polarity (longer "leg" is the A on the diagram), I played with the trimpot.

Interestingly holding reset for 4 seconds (or even 10 seconds) doesn't seem to register - I'm beginning to think all it needs is a reset and I've wired up the reset button incorrectly, but I'm too scared to rip it out and change it around because I'm hoping this has occured to someone else and it was a simple fix. [edit: I de-soldered the reset button, had a look at the tracks and shorted them to try to reset - nothing happened so the button was indeed the right way]

hey SkylineGeoff, do you want to organise a group buy and I can use my trade account to order you guys the gear at cost price. I don't have the time to do the logistics, but can put in the order for you.

I'm certainly getting one, and cheap is good, so count me as one :rofl:

Maybe you can get the books (Performance Kits for Cars) at cost price too? I'm after one of them also :)

When there is no injector pulse input it will display point 64 for RUN on the display, at least it does on mine too, once it is given an input it should be fine.

To switch between RUN and VIEW you need to hit the RUN/VIEW button on the right of the LCD.

The blocks usually appear if you plug in the hand-controller AFTER the IEBC has been powered up, make sure your cable is securely in both plugs, then power it up. You should then have one solid LED (power LED) and two blank ones, use the hand controller to adjust point 64 in RUN mode and the output LED should start blinking then become solid as you move closer to 100%.

If you're still in trouble try to take a decent resolution digital pic of BOTH sides of the PCB so people can have a look, PM me and i'll give you my email if the pic is too large to post here.

Thanks Oosh I'll give it another go when I get home - I'll plug it up to the first igniter and try again.

When my h/c had blocks it was plugged in THEN powered up, but with the ICs swapped (as they are both exactly the same but apparently they have different coding on each.. god knows how they think you can tell the difference).

The RUN/VIEW button doesn't do anything - none of the buttons do not even reset.

The 1 solid LED on the whole time is actually the LED closest to the middle of the PCB, which is labelled on the PCD as "INPUT LED LOW" or something like that....

Just out of interest are you able to switch your ICs around and tell me what happens? If they display blocks on the h/c atleast I can rule out the ICs are in the wrong spots.

Thanks.

Thanks Oosh I'll give it another go when I get home - I'll plug it up to the first igniter and try again.

When my h/c had blocks it was plugged in THEN powered up, but with the ICs swapped (as they are both exactly the same but apparently they have different coding on each.. god knows how they think you can tell the difference).

The RUN/VIEW button doesn't do anything - none of the buttons do not even reset.

The 1 solid LED on the whole time is actually the LED closest to the middle of the PCB, which is labelled on the PCD as "INPUT LED LOW" or something like that....  

Just out of interest are you able to switch your ICs around and tell me what happens? If they display blocks on the h/c atleast I can rule out the ICs are in the wrong spots.

Thanks.

No worries, but you're going to want to hook it up to an INJECTOR signal off the ECU not an "igniter", on a R32 RB20DET Inj #1 is the top-left-most wire as you look at the back of the ECU but you'd want to verify it's the same for a ceffy.

The ICs should have a white-out SPOT on one and a LINE on the other, on the 2nd or 3rd page the parts list shows IC1 & IC2 and which is which, and by looking at the wiring diagram you can see their location on the PCB.

It's no where near as obvious as it should be i'll admit, however, it IS there in the documentation.

You sound like you have a HC or cable problem, or possibly some bad solder links on the IEBC, maybe to do the DB25 connector pins associated with the buttons. Look closely and be sure you haven't had solder splash and bridged something.

Now that i think about it since it's showing point 64 you should have 2 solid LEDs, the input and power, but let me double check mine does that when i get home. I'll be able to tell you tomorrow.

Thanks very very much Oosh. I really do appreciate that. I'm glad you said injector, I would have done it wrong. I believe that's also pin 1 on the sr20 ecu (sr20 transplant).

And I did notice the dash and dot in white but I did NOT see that referred to anywhere in the documentation - I will trust that it was there if you say so though :rofl:

When you say 2nd and 3rd page I assume you mean the paper that came with the kit - maybe that's my problem, I've been going off the book with only occasional looks to the photocopies when something was unclear, I will confirm which ones are proper and make sure they're in the right spots (although I'm pretty sure they are).

The cable is a jaycar cable that's pre-made, so.. shouldn't be a prob there, I bought the straight through (not cross over).

I'll check for bridges (again) :)

I'll also try to short the button that is the VIEW/RUN button because I get the feeling the buttons supplied to be might be dodgy (some click, others don't).

Cheers.

Thanks very very much Oosh. I really do appreciate that. I'm glad you said injector, I would have done it wrong. I believe that's also pin 1 on the sr20 ecu (sr20 transplant).

...

When you say 2nd and 3rd page I assume you mean the paper that came with the kit

No worries, happy to help, and yes the photocopy has the parts list but it sounds like you have the ICs in the correct spots now anyways.

Good luck with it all!

Update:

Ok, I followed Oosh's advice and plugged in my injector 1.

First thing is first - my car started to idle strange, as if the AFM wasn't plugged in and the output light flickered, so I ripped the wire out and had a closer look.

It seems on the outside of the kit where it says I/O it really means O/I ... I think that's the stupidest thing ever - sorry Jaycar but I don't care how good the kit is if you stuff up the labelling it's pretty damn bad.

Anyways, so I plugged it in the other way and, coincidentally I was showing one of my flatmates and said "This light is meant to be on for power and isn't", as I tapped it, it turned on!!

I tapped it a few more times and now it stays on - checked my soldering and it's perfect.. so it's not that but I do find it a little strange.

As soon as the injector 1 was plugged in, after some tuning from the trimpot it actually responded to my revs and went through some of the input levels (1-14.. I didn't want to free-rev it too hard).

So.. half of the damn thing works! I just find it bad how the documentation doesn't state with no input the input led will be on continually. I'm glad Oosh told me - I don't believe this didn't happen to anyone else!

Now the only problem I have is that it won't go out of RUN mode.. pressing the RUN/VIEW button does nothing, holding the reset does nothing. I even tried shorting both of them - still nothing.

Anyone have any ideas?

Now the only problem I have is that it won't go out of RUN mode.. pressing the RUN/VIEW button does nothing, holding the reset does nothing. I even tried shorting both of them - still nothing.

Anyone have any ideas?

I have an idea, on the HC, did you install the wire link that sits underneath the DB25 connector?

... :nowigetit

UNDER the DB25 connector you say? I do not recall anything of the sort - I will check when I get home...

I took it for a spin yesterday just to checkout the behaviour - closer to redline the input hit a max of 48, with different trimpot adjustment levels. Is that normal operating range?

Also - it seemed to jump a little after 10... ie. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 14 18 30 etc - now.. I'm not able to drive and look at the controller like that on anything but a private road, however just wondering about the way the unit works.

Does it actually cycle through the each input level, and it's just that it moves through that level so quick it doesn't display it?

I guess I'm just wondering if it skips on my car from 8-10, is it still executing the output assigned to level 9 ?

Thanks Oosh - will let you know as soon as I get home, although I'm not sure how the hell I'm gonna un-solder the db25, I'll try to get at it from the underside :)

... :nowigetit

UNDER the DB25 connector you say? I do not recall anything of the sort - I will check when I get home...

I took it for a spin yesterday just to checkout the behaviour - closer to redline the input hit a max of 48, with different trimpot adjustment levels. Is that normal operating range?

Also - it seemed to jump a little after 10... ie. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 14 18 30 etc - now.. I'm not able to drive and look at the controller like that on anything but a private road, however just wondering about the way the unit works.

Does it actually cycle through the each input level, and it's just that it moves through that level so quick it doesn't display it?

I guess I'm just wondering if it skips on my car from 8-10, is it still executing the output assigned to level 9 ?

Thanks Oosh - will let you know as soon as I get home, although I'm not sure how the hell I'm gonna un-solder the db25, I'll try to get at it from the underside :)

What load points it displays is based on your injector duty cycle, so if you only ever drive your injectors to 75% then you'll only ever display 75% of the load points (unless you fiddle with the bounds). As for jumping, yeah it'll just be the display not keeping up with the fast shifting inj. duty cycle, but i guess this also makes a good point for what SK was talking about using smooth ramps between points rather than large jumps in value as it can shift extremely quickly between points.

I've emailed you the hi-res photos for your comparision, but i've also attached a picture of the link position under the DB25, the arrows show the two points that need to be closed. If you have forgotten this bit, rather than removing the DB25 (which'll be a bitch), just solder a piece of INSULATED wire on the back of the PCB, don't use the normal link wire cos you could short a track if it gets pushed down on to it.

Holy crap Oosh I think that's it.

I really hope it is - in which case, next time im in SA beer is on me.

Thanks for the email too - I will let you know when I get home.

:P it is :cheers: If it goes well you'll have yours fully fitted before me, I was plumbinh it in last Sunday but had the wrong hosing, and this weekend my folks are coming over to visit. It's hard for me to work on this stuff thru the week but it might happen...

sorry if this has already been asked but do you need the conroller to tune the IEBC? Or can u just buy the boost controller and use that.

Anyway, I have a manual r33 gtst and have a turbosmart boost controller. It seems pretty good but I;ve been told that EBC are heaps more reliable. Should I change>?

This seems like a cheap option which is good :P

sorry if this has already been asked but do you need the conroller to tune the IEBC? Or can u just buy the boost controller and use that.

Anyway, I have a manual r33 gtst and have a turbosmart boost controller. It seems pretty good but I;ve been told that EBC are heaps more reliable. Should I change>?

This seems like a cheap option which is good :cheers:

You need the Controller to program the IEBC, but once you have done that you don't need it anymore. You could borrow one or maybe join with another and make one between the 2 of you, even 3 or 4 would work. They are only ~$70 to buy so not a big outlay.:P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • Every one has seemed to of have missed . . . . . . . The Mazda Cosmo . . . . . . what a MACHINE ! !
×
×
  • Create New...