Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well the drop kicks who fitted my extractors did a sloppy job, leaving bits of the old gasket underneath the new gasket they fitted, and a leak has developed.

I'm going to do it myself this time (the only way you can be sure it's done right).

I got a tube of exhaust sealer to put on the new gasket to ensure a perfect seal.

Is there anything special I should know before I do this or any tips on how not to snap a stud?

Cheers

Greg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61304-replacing-exhaust-manifold-gasket/
Share on other sites

Hope they replaced all the manifold studs. I had to easy out 5 studs when i did mine a few weeks ago, couldnt get the drill at one of them cause the zeds engine bay is so tight with the rb20. I am now in the process of removing the head just to get a stud out. Now ive found some farkstick has stripped a head stud, oh the joys of home mechanics. in short, my advice is replace all manifold studs just for peace of mind. bout 3 bucks a pop from nissan. Get a can of penetrant or similar and spray each nut the night before. Other than that its just luck of the draw.

Good Luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Nismo, any chance in the world you still have these seats?
    • I'd say closer to OG GTX3582R, just smaller trim - so 59mm inducer/82mm exducer as opposed to 62/82 for the first gen GTX3582R. Yeah EFRs were boss, the EFR8474 is still an absolute beast and it perplexes me that people still go to things like Turbosmart/Garrett etc when the results people are getting with those are pretty unremarkable compared to what you could get with a turbo available well before those options came out.  DriftSquid (I think) "upgraded" from an EFR9174 to a Turbosmart turbo and promised a comparison video - and kinda shuffled awkwardly and did a bit of diversion from the fact that they didn't get any improvement going to the currently massively hyped brand of turbo from a turbo that was a bit of a frankenstein that had been well superceded in it's own range before the Turbosmart unit he put on there even came out. I suspect the EFR would outperform most Xonas for what a lot of less-insane RB owners would go for, in the 400-600kw range but the Xonas are looking hard to beat up to maybe in the mid 700kw range at this stage- basically where EFRs don't really reach, and before the Precision turbos take over.  What the Xonas do well in the "EFR range" is be easier to package etc, and work very well if a divided housing doesn't suit your application.  
    • Are you sure the gasket is blown? What are the issues? Thermocure is the only flush I've seen do anything with rust, very impressed with that, Prestone, rust will be by the pool having a cigarette.  
    • And since the flush you have a blown head gasket? Have you lifted the head off yet?
    • The answer is to get a hold of the wiring diagram, work out what voltage is supposed to be where, when, and then work out why it is not there, then. I can't speak to the HR34 stuff, because I have never paid any attention to the NAs. There is a possibility that the turbo diagram will help, but it could also be different - depending on whether there is an FPCM on the NAs.
×
×
  • Create New...