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Damn, the welded up housing still ended up leaking after fitting, ordering part from japan now :rant:

Its possible the part got warped out of shape during heating for weld...

Nothing is going right! Going to be almost 2 weeks until I get the part...:hellpisd:

To install the thermostat & housing on a gtt is probably the hardest thing I have had to do on a car!!! Not due to the endless bad luck but it is so fiddly and my hands cant reach 2 out of 3 bolt locations, making sure thermostat doesnt fall out whilst bolting is a bitch...bla bla.

Problem is a mechanic would have the same troubles because it would be harder to do on a hoist - the best option is to attack it from the top!

:hellpisd:

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Hmmmmm strange that both fluids (oil and coolant) are overheating at the same time. Can someone clarify if R34's have combined coolant/oil radiators. If they do, which i think they probably dont, then the radiator could be to blame.. but i dont know enough about 34 coolings systems to be able to say much. Sorry mate!!

someone will help you out. Come on fellas!

Why is that starnge. Coolant gets hot. Engine heats up causing oil to get hot. Simple.

That radiator cap could have something to do with it. Have you tried a genuine one. Or have you tested the Nismo one?

Sorry, I haven't read the complete thread.

Have you done a pressure test?

The thermostat should be ok...if not, the new one will be. Fans seem to be coming on ok. Reckon it would be difficult to find without some tests.

The first time it overheated the Genuine Cap was actually on - this was a couple of months ago now. Next day I changed it back to Nismo and was fine for a few weeks.

I havent had ANY pressure tests to date - have owned the car for 2.5 years without any probs until this. I think the prob was that the orig themostat may have become blocked.

If, after fitting the new housing and thermostat, there are still overheating issues I will be going straight for pressure testing etc - I doubt its pressure related though.

That radiator cap could have something to do with it. Have you tried a genuine one. Or have you tested the Nismo one?

Sorry, I haven't read the complete thread.

Have you done a pressure test?

The thermostat should be ok...if not, the new one will be. Fans seem to be coming on ok. Reckon it would be difficult to find without some tests.

part received :P nice n shiny too

I plan on fitting it between now and saturday, is it ok to use some of the liquid gasket to hold the thermo in place on the block???? I'm trying to avoid it slipping out again as much as possible!

It should be fine but I thought if I could get it locked in place before fitting the housing that would make things a little easier.

Once again thanks for the help and any further advice appreciated :)

WooHoo - cars back on the road as of Saturday - learning to drive it again after 4 weeks or so of inactivity :D

So far so good WRT temps! Have also installed a catch can and airbox for the pod whilst out-of-service :)

I am thinking the Fan belt and maybe others are on the way out though - trying to find if there is a change-over interval recommended??? The belts LOOK ok but there is still some noise there...

Well - as I mentioned a couple of posts back I think the original thermostat had gotten blocked [its not blocked now but since I bought a new one - the new one is fitted].

The housing & thermo are back together and coolant temp sits permanently under half way on factory gauge so far.

If there is something else still NQR then it hasnt re-appeared yet - though I suspect some of the belts need either re-tensioning or replacing soon!

Thanks guys!

West: yes it used to sit pretty close to half-way and now it is closer to 1/3, this could be due to the new thermostat but it could also be related to the coolant mixture - I have put in at least 33% if not closer to 40%. Oh and I have also changed to a Nismo Dash while the car was off the road - but the engine coolant temp markings are much the same as standard dash.

Erik: I just replaced it with a factory Nissan one - I personally don't think Nismo thermostat is needed unless extreme weather or driving is planned [like circuit racing]. I have heard that the ECU or something plays up if you change to different specs/temps - there was a thread somewhere about this?

There are still no issues with anything overheating so far :D

I am looking at changing the fan belt etc though... still making squeaky noise from cold start, goes away after a little while of driving.

I have the same problem too except my thermalstat didn't fcuk up, me and Troy (YLWGTR) change a new thermalstat this morning, we gave it a pressure test and by now we've at least flush the radiator around 3 times now and it still heat up.

On the way back from Troy place i stop by at a radiator place, ask them to clean my radiator out, the guy reckon my radiator cap screw up, gave me a new one. That help for a bit that i thought we have eliminate the problem but no, the car still heat up but SLOWER, take a while to get hot up now ( the new cap must have help a bit ) but still !!!!

The radiator place also reckon that i would need a new clutch fan cos ' when i was there, he tried to spin my fan ( car still hot ) and said it should not be spining cos' when car get to a certain temp the fan should lock up ( even when i've turned the inigtion off ?? ) but i did what WRXhoon said about test the fan see if it engage or not and mine did, it spin faster and make different sound...

Chances is my Fan do engage but not a %100?

What if the over flow bottle has a crack, say a small crack in it? Second last resort is really take my radiator out for a really good clean and last resort is seriously i dont want to do which pull the water pump out which i only had it replace by ICE only two months ago.

Chance is very rare that too much silicon was used and cos' blockage.

The main radiator fan is  attached to the water pump housing and its a clutch fan , it only hooks up when the engine gets to operating temp ( DON'T try to hold it while the engine is going ). When you say it works , how do you know ? Its always going to be free spinning , you have to make sure it hooks up when the engine is hot .If you rev the engine when cold it will free spin , do it when the engine is hot and it will make a different soundand blow ( suck towards the engine ) a lot more air

Hi when the clutch fan screw up, you can rev your car up to say 5000rpm and the fan will only spin fast enough to support around 3000rpm due to the oil inside the clutch fan die, it doesn't expand therfore fan doesn't engage at %100 as it should be, another word is yes it work but its' slipping therfore it will heat up eventually.

You can also test it out when you just come back from somewhere switch the inigtion off, try to spin the fan with your hand and see if it move or not. If it move then it really is on its way out cos' the engine still hot, oil expand and it should not move. ( Correct me if i'm wrong )

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