Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 111
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Actually since we have nearly hit 10 I will start organising the shipment this week. No money is necessary at this stage since I only need to give him 30%. I will let everyone know when I need the $100 deposit. At this stage Im estimating about the end of Jan.

Actually I'm going to order another 10 coolers out of my own pocket for others if they are interested. So thats a total of 20 all up. Unfortunately it does not change the price - need to purcahse 50+. If I bought 100+ then I could get a hybrid logo :cheers: ...

can't you get 100 out of your own pocket??? :cheers:

jokes dude. Also a quick question, about warranty or any problems, how long is it and what do we do with it (hopefully no dramas but thought i'd find out)

thanx mate

I'm currently in the process of finding out about warranty from the manufacturer. But from me I always check out the good before I post them off. Make sure they are in excellent nick. So from my end the if the parts is not what I described or there is a problem when you receive it I'm happy to exchange it.

Will get back to you about manufacture warranty.

sweet dude. your on.. No deposit just yet. next week I will talk to the manufacture let him know the deal. I will post up next week more accurate dates of arrival in australia. At the moment I beleive it will arrive between the middle to end of feb.

Status

Well, we have hit 10 cooler :D Today I have contacted the manufactures to ask them to begin production on our coolers. So once they finish making them they should be on the next boat to brisbane. Once they get on the boat I will need atleast the deposits from everyone so I can pay the other %70. So here is my ETA list

production finish end of month.

Ship to Brisbane (next available ship) 1st feb : Will need at least deposits at this point up to when the ship arrives. So deposit need to be paid between 1st to 15th feb.

At brisbane 15th - 20th Feb

My house hopefully in a couple of days: 23 Feb

Your house 26-28th Feb..

this is just a guess at the moment. When the ship sails I will have a more accurate ETA.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...