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Nah, apparently the way to do it is just mess with how much timing the engine uses to try to correct idle. So it massively undershoots, then overshoots, then undershoots, then overshoots. So timing is going from 5deg to 45deg to 5 deg to 45deg. But I kinda prefer the car to not lurch around and have a dependable idle. Given it didn't idle for shit and stalled about 7 times on the way home, still yet to drive it for the 2nd time to see if it's fixed. -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
Best chop idle FTW, just add an idle timing hole lol -
Alright. Many little things have been sorted and the car successfully drove home with an incredibly huge exhaust leak. Unsure if it's simply been awhile, but new heads and cam and intake sound f**kin awesome. It might only be me that notices it though, and it's hard to tell from a 15 minute gauntlet run home and attempting to bleed the radiator. Undertrays on, tools out, road brake pads in, idle un-f***ed, time to do some road tuning. From my commute around town it sounds and drives *really* nice (with a max of like 35% throttle). It'll go to a dyno for a proper before and after once the tune is more roughly dialled in. And @Dose Pipe Sutututu I did learn how to do a proper chop tune at idle. I did indeed even do it, but the car shaking around at idle from the driverr seat made me make it smooth again.. I feared for my engine mounts and clerances to engine bay jank. . After the exhaust is fixed I may mess around with it more. I'm just happy to have it drive around without bucking or stalling which is a WIP.
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Bushings are almost done. Check the date stamp 😂 these are likely the original bushings with 27 years and 243ks on them. Was too dark to get a pic of the worst one.
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