Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i'm thinking of getting 19's with the following tyre specs:

225/35/19

will they fit under the lowered cef easily? I should be able to have a test fit but just want to know if it's worth trying.

will they still be legal?

cheers!

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61625-rim-tyre-size-on-cefiros/
Share on other sites

FAT.

Got pics? :)

I'd say you need to roll your guards atleast. Probably spacers at the front. And a "fat" offset.

My rims are 18x7.5 (or 8.5) and the front needed 20mm spacers to fit (the guards are already rolled).

They wear 225/50/18 I believe. (Could be 235/45/18 can't remember).

I reckon I could fit 19's with 35 profile so if you want to test fit on a cefiro with spacers and rolled guards I volunteer mine (save you rolling your guards only to find you cant put the wheels on). I'd love to see my car with 19's (the 18's don't look big enough ehh heh so for a dumped look if I could I'd get 20's).

As for legality without engineering I don't know. I never was able to work out the proper thing (even after reading the RTA document about it) but... Duncan explains it pretty well here.

The actual RTA docs are here - http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow...si/vsi_dl1.html

And the wheel/tyre guide is here - http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow.../vsi09_rev4.pdf

Good luck :P

Whether the rims fit will depend highly on the offset and width of the rims.

Given the tyres you are planning on using, i'd guess they are 8 or 9inch. If you get the correct offset, then they should fit fine with some guard rolling..

Whether the rims fit will depend highly on the offset and width of the rims.

Given the tyres you are planning on using, i'd guess they are 8 or 9 inch. If you get the correct offset, then they should fit fine with some guard rolling..

the rims are 7.5 wide, with either an offset of ET20 or ET42 - these are the manufacturers specs but the guy with the wheels hasn't checked - they were on an R31 skyline so does anyone know which offset it is likely to be?

cheers!

no pics yet cc :)

this is what i have gathered from rta site and another forum.

stock wheel size ...according to my cefiro (which has a wheel placard) ..is 15 x 6.5 wheels with 205 /65/ 15 tyres.

legally without a engineering certificate u can only go 1 inch wider and a max of 15 to 20 mm larger in total wheel and tyre diametre size......so u could have 18s on but lows profile tyres of 35 or 40 or something like that ....check it againt one of those tyre size calculators....this is this is one

the rta website says for enineering ....they can only go up to 2 inchs wider that the extra inch i think ...which would be another 3inchs to the width of the stock rim ......

thats how i read it anyway...

Tire Size Comparison

current stock wheels

Specification 205/65-15

Sidewall 5.2in

Radius 12.7in

Diameter 25.5in

Circumference 80.1in

new wheels

Specification 225/35-19

Sidewall 3.1in

Radius 12.6in

Diameter 25.2in

Circumference 79.2in

I recently got rims on mine with no spacers.

Front and rear have been rolled slightly

18 x 7.5 (offset +32) on front with 225/40/18

18 x 8.5 (offset +32) on rear with 255/35/18

I start to get the fronts rubbing on full lock, and not much room at the rear.

They seem to be a pretty perfect fit.

oOOo kursed is getting dubs on his virgin ceffy!

i have 18 x 7.5

post pics of the wheel, or type,

i want new wheels,

just so i can interchange them for how my pimp lean is feeling...

i want some mesh high polish steel with the lowrider gold spinner in the centre =) drooool

put it this way pimpdat you wouldn't wanna lower your car too much with 10 inch on the rear, especially with 9 inches on the front, but if you're going for the "pimmped out" look then they'd look quite porngraphic on a cefiro

i had 17x10 wheels on my cefiro for motorvation this weekend

they had a gtr offset(i have 5 stud conversion)

they was just tooooooooo wide on the rear and my guards are rolled slightly, i had to dial heaps of neg camber to get them to fit

but on the front it was fine the offset allowed for everything to clear and they only stuck out a little bit

so the offset is the most important thing

Also just to throw a spanner in the works... I think you need to make sure the wheels also clear your brakes, as I know my front ones without spacers, I cant even put the nuts on the wheel properly. But umm, 19s dude... Think about that, they arent really a practical size wheel.

oOOo kursed is getting dubs on his virgin ceffy!

dubs are 20's dude!

But umm, 19s dude... Think about that, they arent really a practical size wheel.

yeah i know! but 19's!!!! argh. spoof. well basically i found a set for a good price and i am doing a bit of cefiro group research, so these opinions are welcome. unfortunately they are not in nsw so i need to go somewhere that stocks the rims and trial fit them... i think tempe would have em. I may just end up with 18s but the wheel arches are so wide on the cef i think they will look like 17s

pimp dat those rims are fkn FATTER than kirstey alley after a pie eating contest.

good luck getting your ride lowered over those though.

I have 235/40/18 on mine heres a pic for your veiwing enjoyment - I just threw these on and didn't roll any guards, they don't scrub at all - but there is a possibility that it was done before I got the car.

rims.jpg

rims2.jpg

these are the rims i thinking of getting. +5 and plus +6 offset, WTF does that mean i have no idea i am getting wide body front but dont know about the back. are these going to be hard to fit?

sorry for changing topic a bit kursed

man they are nice :D they are the ones i was going to get for my R33, GMAX do some here in Aust. but so far i haven't found a 4 stud option

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...