Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

U mean 90w for lowbeam?

I was pulled over by police for running them in my first car.

I was told to but back the origonal spec ones.

I think I was running 90/110 standard they were 45/55.

It also damages the reflective bit of the light after a while as it gets too hot and starts to peel.

Geeze,

I just got my r33 1 mth ago...first the left high beam went, now the left lowbeam is also gone! bloody.........

The previous owner had changed all the bulbs to Philips Enon 6000K. Dun ask me what they are, I just know they are good...well, until today...cos I dun have any beams on the left. Kinda sux.....

Help Anyone? I have read the whole thread, but no one can tell me how to fix it step by step.

is there seperate relays for left and right headlights ???

if so is it possible to join the two switch wires up which turn the relay on. that way wen u turn the knob on for the lights and there is bad contact, u still get both the relays goin on ??

is there seperate relays for left and right headlights ???

if so is it possible to join the two switch wires up which turn the relay on. that way wen u turn the knob on for the lights and there is bad contact, u still get both the relays goin on ??

Yep.. and Yep..

Thats what I did.

I mentioned it earlier on in this thread I think.

I pulled the dash switch out then soldered them both together at the end.. Or did I use a wire to join them.. It was a loooong time ago I did this mod. 2years to be exact. :D

Still working fine. :thumbsup:

So pull the switch out and bridge the two roll switches together.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

as already mentioned, if you can tap the switch and the lights flicker on turn on temporarily, then its most likely the little plastic bits which push the contacts open and closed in the light switch. its very easy to spot them once you open the switch, they are in a line of 3 and are spring loaded. The one that has melted (either just cus nissan miscalculated current draw with age/ higher wattage bulbs used/ or accessories being run from the light circuit ie gauges) is pretty obvious to see, what i did for a temporary measure was to trim the melted bits off as it tends to mushroom at the top, then grabbed the spring and stretched it out a bit more to make up for the part that melted, then reassembled it and checked continuity at the plug. Sure this solution isnt long term if your setup remains identicle, but it is free :( and the switch is not hard at all to take apart and reassemble. just wish id taken fotos for you lot.

switch.jpg

  • 8 months later...

Bringing up an old thread, as it just saved my ass quite a few dollars!

Everything is spot on... the switch was the cause of one of my headlights being out. Just took it out and gave it a good cleaning, played with the springs a bit, and Bob's ya uncle, all is sweet now!!!! Cheerio for everyone that posted here :D

Now to find a thread to fix my faulty climate control lol :headspin:

  • 5 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

well I have this issue now ;)

the right globe sometimes doesn't work, and the left I think blew last night!

hmmmm

I might try cubes trick! so for the R32 GTR a H1 globe is the one needed for the projector style low beam ? correct?

Apparently it's either H1 or H3 depending upon the car. From what I've read there doesn't seem to be any reason/correlation between model and bulb.

At the risk of stating the obvious, have you swapped bulbs between headlights to check it's not the globe?

Cubes' trick seems like the goods, but if it dies you'll lose both headlights. I tried buttondownpsycho's trick and it worked but I was messing around with the headlights and highbeam switches and managed to melt another little pot.

Used switches are under $50 from JustJap.

haha I didnt know this was a big issue with nissans Far out Hey as well as the head lights does anybody get the sticking Indicator I have to fiddle with the Hazzeds to fix it :s dont know WTF is with that. I think they must be dodgy Wireing or maybe there is a water Prob only seems to happen on Rainy days or very cold morning when there is Due.

Can anyone confirm that R32 headlights do not run relays?

For what it's worth, when I took my car to an autoelec with the headlight problem, he suggested putting in a relay, from the working headlight, to fix it.

*shrug*

  • 6 months later...

I ahd the same problem except was right side , replaced switch and problem solved :P

Now 1yr later has started again , mechanic's had been checking electrical problem {turns out to be afm again} and since then right headlight playing up again >_< This time I think it may be the relay {getting old }

For the rest of you though, I would suggest you track down a spare light switch and give that a go . As said above should only be $50. :sorcerer:

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So you're now accepting offers of 10% more than the cost of the turbo kit fitted?
    • No......not yet Minister for War and Finances has stated that the Commodore has to go first Not that I am going to modify the NC any more than what it is already modified now.....
    • Thanks again, really helpful chap from alpha omega wanted to speak to me, little concerned if this is meant to he aero alloy/ airospace quality and car sitting on drive has caused this.  Airplane are subject to much more changing temp and conditions than road salts! My caliper, many other components much older have surface rust but never eating part of the metal   Had I not seen it , could have been a disaster! specifically on rear part of bracket coming off like biscuit will update on what they say, helpful people so far
    • January or Feb is it booked in for turbo fitment?
    • The MX5 has had some annoying rattles in both front doors over bumps So I installed fancy pants door bushings, which stopped all of the rattles with the windows up, but........with the windows down there was still rattles, so after some googling,  and a chat with MX5 Mania, I got some new door to glass weather seals, all the rattles, windows up, or down, are gone now Shout out to MX5 Mania, the weather seals were on sale, and when I head to Dural to pick the up they even fitted them for me for free I did see a "really" nice Blue NA sitting out front   and this Black NC PRHT that looked like it has sat in the sun for its whole life and never had a wash, the clear coat was non-existent, an it looked horrible, really horrible, but, it had a nice turbo kit with over 200kw, the thing went like a cut snake, bagging the rears through the gears and dosing like a champ 😍 But, as I've always stated, I am keeping my NC na, I'm happy with the current power the car makes In other news: MX5 Mania do a drive in drive out turbo kit, the only minor additional part recommended for boosting my car, as it sits now, is a oil cooler, and that bonnet vents are definitely required for track use Aftermarket version look a bit to "racecar" spec I wonder how Focus RS bonnet vents would look?????
×
×
  • Create New...