R32: Brakes - "type M" Brake Upgrade

[predator]

This guide will show you how to upgrade your "non type m" single pot brakes to 4 pot "type m". I was unlucky enough to get the single pot calipers with my r32, and they came in pretty poor condition, so thought it wasn't a bad time to upgrade them before compliance.

The process to remove or fit R33 GTR or GTS-T calipers/discs should be very similar to this guide, and much of this will still be applicable (just use all r33 calipers, lines and discs). This may give you a little bit more stopping power, due to the wider diameter discs.

For reference, total cost was $440 (basically cost of 2nd hand rotors and calipers.. fitting = free).

To begin..

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Tools:

a) 19mm socket, probably with a nice breaker bar as these are stubborn bitches

B) 10mm socket or spanner

c) 14mm socket or spanner

d) 12mm spanner (or adjustable spanner)

e) big ass flat heat screwdriver (for leavering things off)

f) Can of WD40 spray or equivelent, for stubborn bolts (which you *will* find!)

To do conversion:

a) type-m 4pot caliper x 2

B) type-m brake lines and all fittings x 2 (mandatory!)

c) type-m spec discs, which will generally be much thicker than the non type-m

d) brake fluid bottles x 2 (DOT 3 or better rating) - supercheap auto

e) brake bleed kit (supercheap auto)

Remove Wheel

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1. Start by parking where you are going to begin the work, hit the handbrake, and rotate the steering wheel about 3/4 lock left if you're going to do the left side, and 3/4 right if you're going to do the right side.

This will make it a hell of a lot easier to get to the right bolts, etc easily.

2. Jack the front of the car up at the corner you're going to do, and remove the wheel.

3. If you have the single pot calipers, you should see something like this..

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Remove Old Caliper

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1. Start by removing the old caliper, by unbolting the two bolts that sit behind as shown in green. They may be quite hard to budge but eventually they'll come clear. Think they are 14mm.

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2. Once those two bolts are removed, you should be able to slide the caliper off the actual disc, which should look something like this:

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You can just pull it to the side (with brake line still attached) so its out the way, you'll remove it properly later.

3. Pull the pads off (lever off using a long flat-nosed screwdriver if necessary), and you should be left with just the bracket there.

4. The two bolts that hold the caliper bracket on are 19mm, and on mine were a real **** to get off. Basically the only way I could get them off was by resorting to a breaker bar (big ass socket lever.. like a standard ratchet socket, except non-ratchet), with a 19mm socket. Anyhow, eventually they will come out (some WD40 sprayed on might help there).

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Once these are removed, you should be able to simply pull the bracket off and be left with just the disc sitting there.

Remove Old Disc

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1. This is pretty straight forward, you should just be able to slide it off, but if its a bit gummed up (like mine) - you may have to give it a couple of taps with the hammer. The old disc should then pull straight off..

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2. This photo shows the disc totally removed from the hub.

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Bash Time!!

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1. The stock dust/heat/whatever shield will get in the way/rub on the thicker discs you're about to put on so you're going to have to bash it out the way. Luckily its just dodge sheet metal, so a hammer will do wonders there. You don't have to complete kill it, just bash it enough at the ends so its out the way enough.

Test by putting your new disc fully onto the hub, and rotating it by hand. If you hear/feel rubbing, take it off and bash that section of the dust shield a bit more... until its all freely rotating.

2. You will also have to peel back the top corner back a fair bit, as this will also stop you getting the new caliper on properly due to the bolt position. Again, bash, bash.. till its well pressed back out of the way.

3. Slide your new disc on. As you can see I picked up a good set of slotted rotors with my calipers. DBA rotors are a good choice if you don't have any rotors to go with your new calipers. Slotted rotors will dissipate heat better, and are better for the track or hard braking up mountains or the like. Expect to pay around $200-$300 per corner for the discs new.

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Fit new calipers

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1. Now its time to fit your nice new grippy calipers. Below you can see what they look like, before they are fitted:

Thankfully, the hubs for the "non type-m" and "type-m" have exactly the same bolt positions to allow the caliper to go on, allowing a "factory fit" style fitting to the non type-m without any fabrication. What you will notice is that the two big bolt holes (the 19mm ones) which hold the single pot caliper bracket are exactly the correct position to fit the 4 pot caliper itself.

2. Depending on whether you calipers came with any pads, or what pads they did have on, or the previous disc thickness, you may have to press back the pistons into the caliper to be able to slide the caliper properly onto the disc. You'll have to refer to a "how to replace your brake pads" guide to see how to do this..

3.Slide the caliper onto the disc near the bolt holes, taking note of point 2. If its not going on easily with the pads in, you'll have to push the caliper pistons back a bit using a clamp.

4. Bolt the new 4pot caliper on, using the two bolt positions mentioned above (see removing_oldcaliper.jpg for photo). You can use the exact same bolts again as the single pots. Tighten them nice and tight, as you don't want the caliper moving anyway but grip.

You should have something that looks like this:

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Gives a bit more confidence than the old eh?

Brake Lines

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In a way this is one of the more fiddly parts of the process. Make sure you have the type-m lines or equivelent, as the non type-m have a different thread pattern on the caliper end and WILL NOT work (trust me I tried)

1. First of all you'll have to start removing the old line, which involves removing all the clips, which are bracketed at 3 points to the wheel arch. Leave the top one!! (nearest to the wheel arch)..you'll see why later.

There is not magic way to really get these off, I just used a long flat head screwdriver (gives plenty of leverage) and kind of levered as best I could, mainly working from the back of each clip. Eventually with a bit of stuffing around they'll pop off. You'll work it out eventually

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2. Once all brackets are removed, slip out the line at at each mount point. You'll find you have to generally pull down from the bottom, which will pull the line through the hole, and allow you to slide the brass fitting through.

3. You should now have the line pretty much seperated, except for the top bracket. And you should be able to move the whole line and old single pot caliper around a bit.

NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE THE TOP NUT YET!! Wait until the new line is all pretty much fitted to all the correct points and THEN when you're ready to go, you will quickly swap it over (see later) 3.

5. Secure the bottom most line bracket to the hub.. this will be the metal bracket with the large circle in it (you did get the bracket with your new lines correct?). These points are circled.

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will have the hole, but you'll have to track down the correct sized bolt to fit the 2nd. Bolt the bracket in these two positions.

You may want to sit the "flare nut" (one that goes into caliper - circled green) in the thread (ready to screw), before tightening the bracket bolts. This is because its fairly rigid, and there is no flexibility once those other bracket bolts are tightened.

6. Start securing the other points of the new line in place. This will pretty much go on exactly the same as the old line, except at the caliper end the different flare nut setup to the old banjo bolt setup. Insert the rubber through the bracket, and then lead (pull) the actual brass fitting through at each point.

Use the old "clips" to clip the line to each point, sliding them on, to hold each point firmly in place.

7. Tighten that flare nut near the caliper using a 10mm spanner.. Be careful not to screw too tight at the end, or you may strip the thread in the caliper (then you are screwed) - although it does need to be a tight fit so that there is no escape point for the fluid.

8. Now your new line is pretty much all in place, except for the last point, its time to do the final connection. This can be tricky, but see how it goes.

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Using the 12mm spanner, start undoing the top flare-nut. This is a tricky one. I actually ended up snapping the line on one side because it was so gummed up but see how you go. If you snap the line, you'll have to get another, or get another nut flared on.

Leaving the top most bracket in place helps hold the line in place, allowing just the line nut to be undone.

This is why this one is left until last. Once the top nut is loose enough, remove the bracket. As quickly as possible remove the top nut, and quickly screw in the new line at the top using the 12mm spanner.

Brake fluid will start coming out, but there is not much other way to do this. The way I've mentioned you're likely to lose as little fluid as possible from your master cylinder, and piss out everywhere. If you do lose it all, its not the end of the world, but you'll have to top up the cylinder a bit more later on.

Now the line should be full in place!

9. Make sure everything is nice a secure, and there should be no play in the line at any point if done correctly. Check everything, all bolts are tightened well, and nothing looks out of place.

The Other Side

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Do the other side, its exactly the same process for each side.

Bleeding fun

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Undo the bleed line on one caliper, and fully bleed the system, as per standard procedure. You will have to refer to other info on how to bleed each caliper, but it's a fairly standard process, no matter what the car.

This will generally take two people. If you are unsure of how well you've done it, and the brake pedal still appears spongey or other weirdness, drive VERY carefully to a brake place, and they'll be able to bleed the system properly for $50 or so. Its hard unless you've had some experience.

You're all done! Enjoy your new found stopping power.

Quick note on rears (changing from single to 2pot type m or r33 calipers): I would say would be very similar to doing the fronts, but haven't done this yet myself. Most of your stopping power does come from the front, but never discount the rears in giving you good overall braking performance.

[predator]

more pix

[Duncan]

Great write up Gordon, thanks. Its almost exactly the same to fit brembos to an r32 gtr, just remember to put the caliper on the correct side (ie with the bleeder nipples pointing upwards!)

Just one suggestion I would add, it may be worth investing in a flare net spanner for working with brake lines, its basically a ring spanner but with a small gap in it so you can get it over the brake line. This makes it much less likely you will strip the nut, unfortunately since brake lines are hollow they are pretty fragile things

[predator]

ahhh ..now I get you!.. yes, would have been very useful to hold the line, whilst undoing the flare nut.

I'd also recommend definitely using a fixed spanner rather than an adjustable one for those nuts, as an adjustable spanner just tends to round the nuts.

[joeleo87]

leet old thread but can we get those pics fixed up? im getting some M spec brakes of a wecked 32 and i wanna make sure i got all the parts need for the conversion. cheers!

[Traction_issues]

Hey guys , I have just completed changing my R32 GTS front callipers to GTST (mspec) brakes - however i now have to do the rear and am having issues finding replacement hoses (rear only) ....

1- Ive herd that there is a difference between the GTST and GTST Mspec Rear Brake lines?? for example one of them have a "block like "connection? this is the fitting that was on my "GTST brakes and hubs i have sourced for my conversion

2- Because these lines are extreamly rare in NZ ( Crazy i know) i need to know the length of these brake lines (from the block connection to the body nipple connection) So i can match them up and finish my conversion.

3- i also have a contact with braided rare lines but he wants my left nut for them - Aint gna happen haha

Would really appreciate any help or ideas on what other options i have.

Cheers

Chad