Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i wouldve thought with my mph that i couldve done a bit better...may need some more practise.. :rofl:

i was launching at about 3k...

R/T - .486

60' - 2.189

330' - 6.027

660' - 9.169

mph - 79.13

1000' - 11.816

ET - 14.067

MPH - 101.05

Km/H - 162.63

At the time, mods were..

Whiteline suspension

pineapples

full exhaust - hi flow cat, dump pipe and cat-back

GTR intercooler

lightened flywheel & ceramic clutch

stock boost

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61755-timesllip-does-this-seem-right/
Share on other sites

Hey Adrian..

thanks for the advice.

When i slip the clutch, the ceramic combined with the lightened flywheel doesnt make the car too happy...thats why i was dropping it (as best that i could) at about 3k...

Im hoping the extra power the car is putting out will be controlled by the clutch if i slip it out while revving harder..

Hey Cameron - i actually thought my 60' was a bit lame. I would like to get it to a 2.0 flat..

Hey Adrian - Yep thats what im hoping for next time i hit the drags...My tyres are (unfortunately for drags) 18's....but i have 265's on the rear, so i may have a sporting chance...

Thanks SiksII - its great fun !!

i believe alot of it is how you drive your car and the track conditions at the time. my car ran 13.85 @ 101 miles/hr in Darwin of all places. it has similar mods, except i have standard clutch and no suspension mods at that time. Also still have stock intercooler. Like i said above, every 1 is different as to how they drive there car down the 1/4. It was 29 Degree's that night and the track is pretty slippery.

209kW and good tyres should see a high 12 if you can drive.  My car makes less power than that (193kW) and ran a 12.799 @ 105mph.

Adrian

Are u serious!?

first attempt at 1/4 about 6 months ago i did 13.8@104

spose that was launching at 2200rpm, but still your a second faster with 1 more mph :confused:

Are u serious!?

first attempt at 1/4 about 6 months ago i did 13.8@104  

spose that was launching at 2200rpm, but still your a second faster with 1 more mph :confused:

Yhe i agree with 2rismo. I ran a 13.4 @ 108mph wiht a clutch slipping in 2nd and 3rd gear, couldnt tell if it was clutch or wheelspin in 1st gear:( That was with a 2.4 6-ft time (i cant drive plus slipping clutch) and only around 180-200rwkws tops because if i ran more then 1bar then i had a miss.

So about 200rwkws (tops), slipping clutch and sh1tty 60ft i still ran a 13.4. Isnt the theory if i cut 3/10s of my 60ft then that equates to between 0.4-0.5 seconds thru the traps?!?!?! SO that means i woudl be looking at about a 12.9/13.0, then a clutch that didnt slip and im sure i would have been able to run a 12.8 (approx).

LOL, Splitfires and 1.4bar and i reckon i can give a 12.5 a nudge:)

There is a small but noticeable weight difference here. An R32 with 200 rwkw should run a fast ET than an R33 with 200 ya?

Looking around these forums I would hope to get 13.6 with my power except that then I remembered that I have a 4 door and it's heavier than a 2 door R34. Makes for better balance on the track but there is a little extra weight in it which may be making a difference on the strip.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...