Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all.

Tonight I went to take my Stag for a good run as I'm about to go away for a month.

When I put my foot down though things went pear shaped. It started what felt to me like it was missing a bit. The power wasn't smooth at all. And the exhaust was spluttering like it does when it changes gears if I'm fanging it.

I hope someone can understand what I'm talking about and tell me it's nothing major. I haven't checked anything yet as it's dark outside. Not real sure where to look either.

Sorry about the vagueness of ther message. Any help or info would be awesome.

Thanks guys.

Zane.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61835-my-babys-playing-up/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Similar experience......ours started playing up a bit after the long run (400 k's straight). It would miss occasionally under load and drop a cylinder at idle sometimes. As usual, first guess would be plugs. It was my undertanding that it had new plugs put in during the compliance process, but I figured I might as well check them anyway.

The plugs sure looked new but they were Autolites, APP 3924-11's. Now I have never had much luck with Autolites, and 1.1 mm is way too big a gap. So in went a set of the usual NGK BCPR6ES's gapped to 0.8 mm. Bingo no miss, runs perfectly and I am sure makes more power.

I don't know whether anyone else has checked their plugs since compliance, but it might be worthwhile as both burkey22 and I have had similar problems.

:P

When I checked mine they were the factory ones (only had 57k). I didn't bother waiting for it to play up. I scored a set of Iridiums from a mate that used them for about 2 months for nothing ;) . Already gapped to .8mm in the right heat range too, and chucked them straight in :D

I had the spark plugs replaced - the originals were still in the car. Had injectors cleaned, transmission and diff oil replaced...

Car still misses and does strange things with the g box swapping gears while cruising and not changing down when cornering...

Apparently no cracks in the coils. Been told it might be air flow meter or fuel flow sensor thing - as the car does not exhibit the problems consistently, the auto electrician/mechanic couldn't find any faults, so have to wait until the car misbehaves consistently ;)

Just looked at the part number of plugs that were installed - NGK BKR5EIX-11 - now would these plugs have too large a gap and be too 'hot' for a standard stag engine with out mods apart from a panel filter?

Would the larger gap also make the car feel a little sluggish apart from the possibility of mis-firing? I am wondering whether the problems I am still experiencing with the odd running of my car is now also due to incorrect spark plugs... any comments?

:)

Just looked at the part number of plugs that were installed - NGK BKR5EIX-11 - now would these plugs have too large a gap and be too 'hot' for a standard stag engine with out mods apart from a panel filter?

Would the larger gap also make the car feel a little sluggish apart from the possibility of mis-firing? I am wondering whether the problems I am still experiencing with the odd running of my car is now also due to incorrect spark plugs... any comments?

:P

The -11 = 1.1 mm and from my experience that's too big, particularly at more than standard boost. I used 0.8mm on the NGK BCPR6ES, actually they came as -8, but I still checked the gaps. I use BCPR7ES in the race car, but they are too cold for lots of traffic driving. Hence the 6's are the go.

My suggestion would be to gap them down to 0.8mm, the heat range shouldn't cause the missfiring.:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because all parts that are put into your papers usually are assigned a badging if they did not come with one. So other people can just check that badging to tell if it is the parts your papes outline. But my pipe has NOTHING on it whatsoever. No idea why this even passed as a Mines pipe to begin with. I see this going two ways: -nobody cares and it's a non-issue, but that is unlikely -the pipe will just have to be assigned a bagding, for sake of argument, a Mines logo, and the papers corrected accordingly If it interests you I will post what the actual solution ended up being. All I care about is that it has to sound equal length and nobody can screw me later on because of a pipe being illegal.
    • The fasteners to the pipe are not subject to TÜV I guess, if we really start putting nuts and bolts through technical tests I'm going to hang the people responsible and then myself. Usually on a modern-ish EU normed car, you would just replace the pipe. Because if you start hacking away at it and welding new pieces on the cops will definitely find a reason to tow your car. That is just how it is sadly. On old cars and imports with no clear "standard" stuff like that won't matter too much. Most cops or inspectors probably won't even really know what they are looking at. But there is experts for this stuff even among cops, and some of them know the rules to a T and even have extensive knowledge about many vehicles. For "just a pipe" to be legal it usually is included in a set of parts, like a complete intake kit or a full exhaust. For example my exhaust needs to pass a noise test, meaning they have a standardized test track with a set of instructions and they run the car through there 3x for an average noise value that is 75dB(a) at point x of the test track. If it's above that, fail. For a turbo setup to be put in your papers you have to do dyno runs, emissions testing etc. So quite costly
    • Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) TÜV'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the TÜV ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
×
×
  • Create New...