Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Our Jon in AutoSpeed!!! This car was one of the best and cleanest looking R32's around IMO. I loved it.

If you can remember back to our article Pre-Owned Performance - Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-t you’ll know that the Nissan R32 Skyline GTS is a much better vehicle than its reputation suggests. No, it doesn’t have the GT-R’s giant-killing RB26DETT or the R33’s RB25DET but it’s still a great overall package. Consider the R32 GTS’s modest 1320kg kerb mass and you’ll come to appreciate why the oh-so-smooth RB20DET makes it a good thing.

And John ******* late 1993-built R32 is just the machine to prove its potential.

John picked up his Type M R32 about 2 years ago with just an aftermarket filter under the bonnet. John liked the Skyline’s smoothness, refinement and style but – having owned a VR4-powered Cordia, an 11 second Torana, RX-2 and various go-fast Commodores – its all-out acceleration didn’t get his blood rushing.  

There was no hesitation when John made his first mods – they were so obvious every man and his dog can tell you that the stock exhaust and intercooler are hopelessly restrictive. The factory exhaust system came out and John offered a 3 inch mandrel system to the back of the turbocharger. Oh, and John also replaced the existing aftermarket filter with a new HKS pod fed by a 3 inch cold air pipe.

John shopped around for an upgrade intercooler to replace the factory item and settled on the popular Hybrid 600 x 300 x 76mm core. This is a pretty big ‘cooler so its no surprise the bumper had to be sliced to make space. The intercooler plumbing was fabricated by John and his brother-in-law.  

The R32 isn’t John’s sole project car but when he discovered a Mines computer hiding in a R32 Skyline half-cut he bought (to re-power a Sil80) he roped it in for action on this machine. We’re told the Mines ECU eliminates or lifts the speed cut, boost cut and rev limit. John had been told all about the standard Nissan ceramic tubocharger’s reliability problems at high boost so he wisely kept the boost increase fairly mild – just 10 psi. A home-made bleed valve and restrictor arrangement allows this increase.  

Power at this stage was about 215hp at the wheels on Paramount Performance’s Dyno Dynamics chassis dyno. Not bad, but the engine had the intercooling and breathing capacity to support a lot more...

As John pondered a turbo upgrade that would safely allow more boost, a mate offered for sale a second-hand Mitsubishi TD06-19C turbo with internal wastegate. Perfect! Or almost perfect...

To fit the TD06 John retained the standard RB exhaust manifold but used longer studs and a 12mm spacer plate to mount the turbo further away from the engine (to provide necessary clearance). We’re told the TD06 had the same stud pattern as the factory exhaust manifold so there were no problems with mounting hole alignment.  

The bigger huffer didn’t give the same sort of throttle response as the old turbocharger but it did provide a lot more top-end power. With boost pressure set to a high of 21 psi, the TD06 pushed 270hp at the rear wheels. On the downside, it had problems over-boosting and John tried a bigger exhaust housing to fix the situation. This successfully prevented over-boosting but caused unacceptable lag. Top-end power also went virtually unchanged.  

A newer, more efficient turbocharger was what the doctor ordered.

Recognising the limits of the TD06, John stepped up to a GT28-type ‘440hp’ roller-bearing turbocharger that is designed to suit CA and SR-series Nissan fours. Unfortunately, the RB20DET engine employs a T3-style turbo flange while the CA and SRs use a T25/T28-flange. At this stage most people would leap to the conclusion that an aftermarket exhaust manifold is needed – but not Do-It-Yourself John!

With the help of John’s brother-in-law, the original turbine flange plate was cut off the RB manifold and a drilled-to-suit 32mm thick mounting plate was welded on. John says the original manifold was heated and maintained at a high temperature while the new adaptor plate was welded on using stainless rod. A key factor to avoid cracking is to control the rate of cooling once the plate has been welded – let the manifold cool rapidly and it will lead to cracking problems.  

At the same time the turbo was being swapped, the existing Mines computer was ripped out of the passenger’s kick panel and a plug-in MicroTech LT12 ECU took over. The MicroTech unit contains a MAP load sensor so John made the most of it and removed the factory airflow meter to reduce intake restriction. A set of six modified Skyline GT-R injectors and a Malpassi adjustable reg team with a R33 GT-R in-tank pump and a Bosch 909 high-flow external pump. The ignition is stock.  

With its new roller-bearing turbocharger and tuned MicroTech computer, the car punched out a fairly easy 307hp at the wheels on 18 psi. Interestingly, John then decided to alter the cam timing (using custom adjustable sprockets) and found about 13hp more at the wheels - with only a touch more lag. John says the current cam timing specs are: inlet cam timing retarded 2 degrees and exhaust cam timing advanced 6 degrees.  

As you may have noticed in our pics, a polished oil breather catch can and a GReddy Type S blow-off valve were also installed at this time.  

The standard Nissan driveline is very strong, but when you add a no-slip ‘600hp’ brass button clutch, the poor ol’ gearbox doesn’t receive much slack when the rear tyres hook up. This is John’s fourth gearbox – he’s blown a second gear, third gear and an output shaft! The diff is the original viscous LSD – no problems with it so far.  

John is pretty keen on the drift scene and has his R32 set up for easily controllable power slides. Tein HR coil-overs, pillow-ball upper mounts, a R32 GT-R rear swaybar and a disabled HICAS system give John the handling balance and response that’s essential when getting sideways at, well, a considerable speed... If he ever gets into trouble, John can always stand on the R33 Skyline brakes which are currently being bolted in.  

Cosmetically, John’s R32 is surgically clean. The factory white paint is immaculate, he’s removed the standard rear spoiler and the bumper is a base-spec R32 item that’s sliced to suit the ‘cooler. The wheels fitted during our photo shoot are 18 x 8s wearing 235/40 Bridgestone S02s.  

Inside, John’s car is inexplicably fitted with a R32 GT-R-like trim. John says he’s seen other GTS Type Ms with a conventional interior trim, so we can only guess the GT-R trim package came out in the late-model R32 Type Ms. John has also added an AutoMeter boost gauge, aftermarket steering wheel, gear knob and pedals plus a JVC MP3 sound system with a 12 inch sub. All the essentials.  

At this point in time it seems John has taken his R32 GTS about as far as he intends. As a result, he wouldn’t mind selling it to put some extra cash toward his other project – his dyno queen/show car Sil80.  

Hmmm. If this R32 is only a ‘warm up’, we dare to imagine what that l’il beast will be like!

Footnote - if you’ve got around approximately AUD$23,000, John is willing to let his R32 go to you. If you’re genuinely interested, John can be contacted at [email protected]

WHITE R32's skyline which I believe he recently sold to fund his new project. Interesting write up, I never knew most of that stuff.

Pics below.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62063-autospeed-yld32/
Share on other sites

thanks guys much appretiated..... yeah sadly its gone now but now i have a sil80 ground up project yeah i know i know how could u go to an s13.... but i cant even answer that myself :cheers: what started as a quick accident repair and touch up is now a full strip and full respray inc engine bay full susp redo inc coilovers engine mods etc etc etc lol

actually the gearbox count not as bad as that when they rang and got details i thought mick said how do the rb20 gearboxes hold up and i said ive broken 3rd in my first but ive seen broken output shafts and second gears.... either that or i heard the wrong question or just gave the wrong response.... bad phone service does that to you....so yeah i only ever broke 1 box myself...

the ol' 20 boxes held up good i rekon like everything just depends how u drive it im sure i could break a 25 box also but it would take more thrashin hehehe....

i just hope the new owner respects the car and the power it has (albeit not massive hp but enough to get u into trouble) and has fun at the same time!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62063-autospeed-yld32/#findComment-1174205
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • pffft! My alignments are starting to take 3-4 weeks each. Bugger overnight - that would be a dream! Overnight is when I leave it on stands with the rear suspension in pieces, hoping I can remember where I was at when I come back to it. I have to set the car up on a level surface so I can get decent camber measurements, then try to set the RUCAs to the right length to get that right. Then I have to put the car somewhere else where I have enough room to set up the bumpsteer gauge (laser, paper, mirror), so I can dial out that. Then I need to go measure camber again because changing the tension arm length affects that also. Then I need to measure toe, and I can't do that to my own satisfaction at home, so I have to put it on an actual aligner. Then I have to go back and fix the camber again, and if that took more than a half a turn, decide if I want to set up the bumpsteer measurements again. I previously had the bumpsteer almost completely banished and then I started changing things again! And that's only the rear end. Not even gotten to talking about the front yet. And this has been going on in the context of me discovering a seized bolt in the LHR FUCA bush at the upright, hence needing total disassembly to replace that bush and the others that were not far away from the same outcome, replacing sphericals in the front end and making a mistake that resulted in needing to do it again, which is only half done right now. It's a selfmade nightmare. Only have self to blame, etc etc. But regardless, I am so complelely unable to utilise the services of a normal wheel aligner that I have no choice. I haven't found a shop in my city that does "race" alignments - and by that I don't mean I want my car to be set up for racing, but the set of adjustments that I have available and that need to be used to do the alignment are the same as you'd find on a race car. I haven't looked everywhere, but there doesn't appear to be the equivalent of the motorsport focused shops that are present in Sydney and Melbourne. And such an alignment would cost $300, and you only want to do it once in a while, and you don't want to find out that you have to replace bushes and bearings and such while you are spending that $300 so you have to come back and spend it again a week later. So I stay living in my self made nightmare for the moment.  
    • Well, yeah, obviously. But then you have a turbo with 270kW "design", meaning it will have the higher boost threshold and lag of a bigger turbo, but only doing the work of a smaller turbo. That's the suck. That's actually exactly where I am right now, because my stocker exploded and I got Tao to do a highflow for me. I got a low pressure actuator on it and don't push it past ~10 psi or so, where the stocker was being run at ~12 psi. it makes a little more power than the stocker did, but it lags like a bitch. But, if I run any more boost it starts to ping and the ECU goes into panic mode, which cuts all the fun, so it clearly needs to be tuned. But, until such time as I (which is not I, it's my bro-in-law) can actually get the dyno working again, and get some injectors, and do all the swap over of those and the R35 AFM, I can't attempt to use the turbo the way it really deserves to. So what I have now is something that drives worse than what it did before it filled the cat with little pieces of turbine. I will tune it eventually, and probably only push it up to ~250-270 rwkW, which is pretty close to the max for that highflow anyway. I would imagine that by getting the tune right, and with newer betterrer injectors, we can probably make the boost come on a little earlier than it does now.** And if I do not think that the top end reward is worth the low end sacrifice, I will sell it off and convert to a G30, because the smaller ones of those come on boost very nicely on a 25 and make more power than I realistically need or want. The only reason I didn't do it at the time the turbo blew up is that I wasn't ready to sink a lot of money into an Artec manifold, reverse rotation turbo, the AFM and injector upgrade that would have been immediately compulsory, and the dyno was being problematic.*** It was easier and faster to just put the highflow on. And then, as I mentioned in an earlier post, even that is not "easy", because Tao's highflows use a shorter core than the Hitachi, so the compressor housing moves backwards in the bay, necessitating that all of the pipework had to get modded. ** And maybe just maybe, check the valve clearances and put new shims through, because I have recently seen firsthand on another motor that sloppy clearances on the shims can cost a lot of effective timing and lift and really slow an engine down. 3S-GTE in a Caldina got new shims, closing the clearances from just above the max to right down near the minimum, and it is a massively different car to drive. On boost the better part of 1000 rpm earlier!
    • ooooooh so this is where they get posted  Was at a wedding that day anyway, but the next one I will be there for SURE.
    • @PranK, why do we have this restriction? Because photos are the first thing that gets asked of new people on the forums. Do the spam bots post photos if allowed?
    • How do you rate the clutch @joshuaho96? Sometimes I wonder whether it's genuinely very driveable or whether I just feel that way because it cost a good chunk of money. Most recently when seeing the guy at the tyre shop struggle to move the car...
×
×
  • Create New...