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Id ask for an itemised list of what the $800 fee is for exactly...shouldnt cost that much to make it "just start"

Like Roy said, track down why the car wont start at the basics.....ie do the dash lights come on, does the fuel pump prime, does it actually crank but not fire? etc....

I will go see the mechanics tomorrow, its an rb25 loom.

Apparently the rb25 loom has to be pulled out and by using bits and pieces from the rb20 loom make up a custom loom to suit the situation.

I dont know if thats what needs to be done or not but thats what I am being told.

Thats what the $800 will be for.

If anyone has done this conversion before or knows anyone that has played around with the looms please let me know.

Thanks for all your help :(

Mark

The body loom (if thats what it's called) that runs on the drivers side of the engine in the r32 is a direct plug in on the r33 engine. It should be un touched with the knock sensors and air regulator valve removed form the eqivalent r33 loom and plugged in. In that situation the car should crank at the very least as the loom is un effected.

I would be checking that power is connected to the CAS, Injectors, Ignitor and coils as these will prevent the car from firing. Fuel pump obviously needs power but that is a fairly easy one as there is a single trigger wire from the ecu to the fuel pump relay that can be traced by looking at the r32/33 pin out diagrams. I'm pretty certain it's the same pin as well. Even with the fuel pump speed control, that i mentioned earlier, not connected the fuel pump will work.

As for a hybrid loom, thats a load of shit.

R33 engine loom will be used with the exception of the wiper section of the loom. You need to swap the main power plug in the front passenger corner of the loom for the r32 one and trace a few wires, and the same with the under dash plugs but thats it.

If you have the fuel pump speed control connected at the ecu you will need to wire in the dropping resistor and if you have a later r32 then there is a sensor on one of the heater hoses that needs to be wired in for your climate control to work properly but that it pretty much it.

guys, most of the info has already been covered.. and some of you have even posted in the same threads!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=54983

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=53377

disco: i had a quick search and couldn't find myself.. but from what I remember being posted, for the sender you basically use the RB26dett top and screw into the standard bottom

As MR R32 stated, there are hours of fiddling. You have to trace wires and swap the dash plugs and the main power plug in the front corner of the engine.

But all the info you need is the pin out diagrams for both rb20 and rb25. The rest is just tracing wires from these plugs on both looms so you can connect it correctly. And then run the wiring for the other plugs i mentioned above.

I probably spent close to 6 hours on the loom when i did my conversion, not including the z32 afm and emanage wiring. But the car fired first go.

This is the second loom i have done, the first was for an sr20 into a cefiro which took a lot longer as i had to figure out what i was doing first and then run new power as the sr loom picks up its power on the drivers side as opposed to the passenger side.

I had these same drama's when I dropped a RB25DET into my R32. The Autoelec's bill was around $650. The engine now runs fine, however I still have these drama's:

* No Cold start

* No idle step up for Aircon

* No HICAS

* Front spoiler doesn't come down at speed

It's frustrating, because the engine dropped in with no hassles at all. The electrics however have proved to be a nightmare.

I had these same drama's when I dropped a RB25DET into my R32. The Autoelec's bill was around $650. The engine now runs fine, however I still have these drama's:

* No Cold start

* No idle step up for Aircon

* No HICAS

* Front spoiler doesn't come down at speed

It's frustrating, because the engine dropped in with no hassles at all. The electrics however have proved to be a nightmare.

Couple of easy fixes and a speculator.

The cold start is fairly easy, just make sure your auxiliary air valve has power when the ignition is switched on as this is the only part of the loom that needs mods. Pretty certain i had to wire in power for it.

Idle step up for the aircon requires an additional relay wired into the loom triggered by the aircon on signal to the compressor. Power goes to the secondary valve next to the idle contol valve.

And the specky: No HICAS or front spoiler are probably related to having no speed sensor signal to the ecu.

Thanks for your input Dave, I was thinking the exact same thing about having no speed sensor signal to the ecu - as I also have no speed cut at 180kph.

Unfortunately I wouldn't no where to start trying to find the Auxiliary air valve, but at least I'll be able to give the Autoelec a heads up if I get a chance to drop it back in.

what's the total cost involved in a conversion (rb20 > rb25)?

It cost me around $6500. But you could probably do it for as little as $4000. My costs were:

Engine & Loom: $1900

Turbo: $600

Computer: $200

CES Front dump pipe: $650

Extreme Clutch & Lightened Flywheel: $1100

Adjustable Exhaust Cam Gear: $200

R34 GTt intercooler: $250

Auto Elec: $650

Mechanic: $1000

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