Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just about to receive an Apexi AVC-R. Are these hard to install yourself? Anyone had any experince with these? I currently have a bleed valve, does this get replaced?

Next question...Do these work well? I run 1.5 bar boost atm. What I am mostly wanting from the AVC-R is to run 1 bar for 1st and 2nd gears. Does it do this well?

Last question(s)...I am also getting autometer a/f ratio gauge, oil pressure (electronic) gauge and shift light. Any hints or tips people can give me on the instalation of these?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6227-avc-r/
Share on other sites

Apexi AVCR went in no probs, hardest thing is finding holes in firewalls to pass cables. I made up some alum brackets for the MAP sensor and solenoid valve, mounted the MAP sensor next to the OE boost sensor (R32 GTST), and solenoid valve behind the air filter on the upright. Try and keep the solenoid valve as close to the wastegate actuator as possbile, the shorter the line the more accurate the control of boost. (I suppose you can just REMOVE ther bleed and place the solenoid in its place)

Only thing i didnt do was wire into ECU, but i removed kick panel and had all the wiring ready to go for mechanic. Cost me $40 to and 35mins to get connected.

I think im only using half the functions, but i seem to have stumbled onto a pretty good setting where she boosts pretty hard for a stocka.

Air/fuel meter is a pretty simple wire up to O2 sensor (Have you seen one in operation, they are pretty hard to make sense of depending if engine is in closed loop etc), oil pressure i cant help you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6227-avc-r/#findComment-93495
Share on other sites

Have decided against the AVCR (for now). But thanks for the help

With the a/f ratio meter, where exactly should i hook this up to the O2 sensor? Is this the airflow meter behind the air filter? If not, where can I find this in the engine bay?

I also bought an Autometer quik-lite shift light. Not sure where to connect the wire for the tacho feed. Any help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6227-avc-r/#findComment-97584
Share on other sites

O2 sensor is not the same as airflowmeter. Yes the air flowmeter is the black plastic cylinder about 80mm in diameter and say 100mm long that is just behind your air filter.

The O2 sensor is actually located on the exhaust, an inch or two from where the exhaust bolts to the back of the turbo. Depending on the type of O2 sensor there is typically either 2 or 3 wires, the Autometer manual lists both types and gives instruction on how to wire up for both types. (Bolts into the exhaust at 90 degrees)

I suggest you see the Autometer air/fuel gauge working on someone elses car before you install one as they are hard to read, as your engine ECU often flips form Open loop to closed loop (rich to lean) and you have to first understand this sequence if you hope to understand what the gauge is telling you about the tune of your engine.

Which is my next point, these gauges should never be used for tuning an engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6227-avc-r/#findComment-97981
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...