Jump to content
SAU Community

SBC ID III vs AVC-R


Col-GTSX
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

After multiple pms about setting the boost on the SBC i will note the following....

If you are after 10psi do the following (internal wastegate only);

go to channel1....

Switch this channel to manual

set boost to 43

set gain to 10

this is 10psi on the head, may need to adjust the boost setting up or down +5 or -5 depending on how much hose you used.

10 psi for external wastegate users.

go to channel 1

set to manual

set boost to 32

set gain to 40

once again just play with the boost number to adjust the boost value...

Also note the boost number does not relate to a certain figure (i mean its not like 40psi) its just a scale of 1-100 (1 = stock boost / 100 = max boost)

Do not play with you gain setting in manual mode unless you want to kill your clutch. Automatic cars may run a combo of like;

Channel 1

manual mode

boost set to 34

gain set to 15

This will give you a kick but is not suggest for any standard gtst... As you will kick the motor too hard and it will kick you in the back pocket. LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dimentions???

The control unit (hand controler) about the size of a half a packet of smokes.

The brain box about the size of a packet of smokes but thinner.

The sol under the hood about 2 packets of smoke on top of each other.

Please note all smoke packs refered to were B&H 25 hard packs.... (Medium 12 version) LOL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Set up a HKS EVC4 on a RNN14 (pulsar) and it was a very easy unit to use, setup and fit but it looks "old" now.

Same again with an AVC-R (on the same car after he sold the EVC4). Lots of trouble with spiking boost, ECU wiring etc. In the end he sold it on and went back to HKS but got the newer EVC5 which was fantastic (but expensive).

I have an SBC-ID3 on my GTT and ran it at 17.5psi (1.2bar) on a TD05-18g and it held boost really well (no spiking) until 6000rpm when it died off to 13psi (1bar). Most likely the turbo was the cause but I never got around to finding out why it'd happened before I broke my engine (lost oil cooler hose at 80mph - 130kph)

I'll definately have the ID3 again in any turbo car I'll have (or the EVC5).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good info Ian. I have installed a few HKS units. I just didnt like the looks of them and they have limited features compaired to Apexi and Blitz.

I have not experienced any drop off with the Blitz unit when set in manual mode. Went to dyno and the boost grapg was perfect. It was on 9.8 then touched 10.1 and up and down 0.3 psi. The graph is almost perfect, a 0.3psi fluctuation is nothing and the guy at dyno was blown away as to how acurate it was on an internal wastegate turbo.

Cheer Col

NOTE: If anyone else has had experiences with different boost controllers please feel free to write it up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well i guess you'll have to wait to find out. As if i were to do that today id be back tommorrow with a new topic "I blew my motor beacue i was an idiot" LOL

I will let you know, im doing one atm on a WRX. He is running 20psi atm on a bleed valve, so i convinced him he needs to go electronic. We will fit it later and monitor its progress.

NOTE: Wrx's are quite easy to work on, this should only take us an hour to fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok finished the WRX.

Took it for a run at 20psi. Hit record on the device in graph mode. Spools up to 19.7psi by 3700rpm. Then holds with minor movement of 0.4 psi threw to red line.

The graph looks nice, very fast onset and holds. She starts at around 19.7 then slightlly climbs to 20.1psi towards 5500rpm then lets down a little to 19.9 at redline.

I would call that very good. I am very happy with this result and the guy is wrapped. As his old bleed valve spiked to 25 psi every now and then. Before anyone asks about mods on this WRX ill tell you its fairly standard and yes i told him 20psi is a little to much, he srugged it off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

installed one ofthese on my GTR, when I get the chance i'll take it out and test it. As for 18 psi, I'll report on that once I have the 2530's on :) but I also have the HKS upgraded actuators!

I'd be really interested to find out your settings for the ID3 as I'm doing the same setup.

Cheers,

Penfold

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd be really interested to find out your settings for the ID3 as I'm doing the same setup.

Cheers,

Penfold

I'll play around with it tonight and let you know :)

have you installed yours yet? I just write some instructions for someone else on how to install it - I can pm you if you want!?!? pretty easy job, it would someone with no experience about 2hrs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

So anymore feedback on these things after a few monthds of use.

Anymore feedback on how they go controlling an 8psi spring at say 20psi???

Aslo with the scramble boost funciton, can you set it for - boost as well as + boost? And is it for a predetermined elapsed time, or whislt you hold the button down...or both???

Trying to resurrect the AVCR next weekend, but thinking i need to buy a new EBC, may go another AVC-R, may try something new:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an HKS EVC III (was on the car from japan), and it spikes like a bitch, and surges (goes on and off boost), it's fine if i have it 'tuned off' in stock boost. Is it true that the EVC III is pretty buggy?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi and welcome. What are you planning to do to the car or will you keep it stock?
    • https://windowmotor.com.au/collections/02-07-v35-nissan-skyline?srsltid=AfmBOorAnTNYaD1tXzczAKZFqnDkZy23WgPXNfVscyeRKHhVNkiaC-WH https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-v35+stereo/k0  
    • Heaps of historical info on this, a quick Google gave dates back to 2012, all talk about identification markings, dimples, shapes of mounting surfaces, washers, that are concave or something to match the fasteners mounting surface, which ARP states that if the washer, if it uses a washer in its application, isn't the right way around, it can cause premature failure,  even if it was torqued up correctly with whatever lube is meant to be used There is even talk about getting the bolts Xrayed to check the structure, one was about some builder getting multiple sets of bolts, having them Xrayed, and picking from those results Nowadays identical "looking" fake parts, in identical looking fake packaging are everywhere, with all the markings and stuff, the only way you know they are not legit is Xray or when they fail I assume if you don't want fake parts, and don't have a Xray machine handy, is to get them directly from ARP in the USofA, aftermarket rod and head bolts aren't something to take for granted  Imagine building a big dollar build only to find you lunch it because of an inferior fake fixture let go 😫
    • Quick update team on the build Things done. Installed Diff Brace ( TMR Performance ) Removed Steering Rack and replaced bushings with GK Tech bushings Remove Manifold and replaced Rocker Cover Gaskets and the Spark Seal Tubes Installed 1000CC Bosch Fuel Injectors Installed R35 Spark Plugs ( Pre-gapped to 0.28"  Installed Z1 Coilpacks Removed Fuel Sender unit and modified OEM pump to fit the 350lph Fuel Pump Installed Fuel Sender unit back with a Fuel Return system ( TMR Performance Fuel Return V2 )  Setup Fuel Lines that were AN lines and used P-Clamps to secure them to body ( This is needed to make this road legal in NZ ) Setup Fuel regulator Setup Vacuum lines from Wastegate to boost controller ( 3 port mac valve ) Wired boost solenoid to the EVAP sensor ( Behind manifold of car ) - Polarity of cables doesn't matter Setup BOV and Fuel Regulator lines Installed both aftermarket Aero Fenders ( Sourced from Japan ) Received Impul 280km/h Speedo ( Sourced from Japan ) Installed Carbon shift console Drive down the road untuned without creating boost pressure to test for leaks ( Video attached ) Setup JRP Racing 14in1 Gauge with Boost pressure being monitored Buttoned car back up and Tow to tuning shop in the mighty DE ( Nissan Elgrand E51 ) - VQ35DE Tuning platform is EcuTek and am hoping to 550WHP ( Dyno day is 9th and 10th of October )  Had Shop weld in a new Exhaust piece to connect Downpipe > Motordyne Resonator and to add x2 02 Sensor bungs for an AFR Gauge that will hook into the JRP Multi-Gauge    20240927_181518.mp4 20240927_181618.mp4 20240928_192844.mp4
    • It's in the bloody domain name twice! Yes...the GTR boxen have, for some reason, been cheaper than the RWD boxen for a long time. 10 years ago the GTST box was available here for <AU$3k. 5 years ago the GTT box was available for ~AU$3300. Both retail through 3rd party. Now the GTT box is >4k locally and only available for less if you're willing to jump through some hoops. Apparently they can be ordered from Nissan dealers for $3-3.5k at trade pricing. A friend of mine has a new GTT box sitting on his showroom floor that I keep wanting to hit him up for but I'd somewhat rather he sold it to someone else at his asking price than to me for a mate's rates discount.
×
×
  • Create New...