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13PSI boost "stock" on R32


Haysey
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My R32 gts-t has a HKS pod and a 3.5inch catback and i put a boost guage in recently coming off the fuel regulator on the intake and its boosting at about 13PSI on warm day with a bit of load behind it....

the stock boost guage reads just before the +7 line.... on a cold night its sitting on +7 (havent had a cold night with boost guage..)

Now im not too sure about the cars past but im positive it hasnt got a boost controller or anything...

Any ideas?

Is this good for the turbo or will it die?

thanks

ed

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No its not good for the turbo with out a front mount too much shaft speed generates too much heat, But i've seen a couple of guys running that sort of boost level through stock RB20 - No Intercooler/Dumpipe and their turbo hasn't died yet!

But i would reccomend 10 - 12psi max - try and keep around 10 if you can otherwise you'l end up with a exhaust wheel in you'r cat with anything over 12psi, if you'r flogging it on a hot day for too long. :(

:D

Jun

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  • 2 months later...

i just bought an r32 and just fitted a boost gauge also. i have stock intercooler HKS pod and a 3" catback sys.

the gauge reads 10-13 but seems anything over 10 will die off anyway when there is less load.

i thought this seemed high as i dont have a bleed valve installed.

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Mr. Ed32,

13psi isn't high when you consider you are running a 3.5" exhaust.

Bigger exhaust allow the turbo to convert the exhaust gas in to shaft power more efficiently.

Are you running a cat?

Does it taper off at the higher 5500+rpm?

With a 3" turbo back mine made 11psi, others have made a little more, generally 11.5-12psi. I fitted a bleed and boost went up to 12psi.

I put this down to my dump pipe being a little dicky. So much for a $1660 exhaust. See attached pics if your interested, the raise is ~15mm directly in front of the turbine wheel. Not good. :thumbsup:

I ran 12.5psi at 7000rpm & 13psi below 5500rpm for quite some time on the stock intercooler. It made 152rwkw.

As long as you are getting plenty of fuel, not detonating and be carefull on hot days the turbo will stay intact.

I ran 1bar for ~90,000km's, afr's were a little rich which keeps the egt's down and keeps the turbo intact. I was running a decent bar and plate FMIC.

I have always believed that the EGT's is what kills the ceramic turbo's.

Detonation sends egt's through the roof.

I wouldn't worry about the shaft speed, high egt's due to detonation caused by superheated air (17+psi) will kill the turbo before anything else.

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First things first tho. Leave the fuel reg alone, set the gauge up off something else, back of the plenum or something. I've been told it can help the car lean out, better safe than sorry!

Also, what does your gauge sit on when the car is off? Being a HKS tho it should be fine, but if its say a pound or two below 0, that could affect it.

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With the R33 I wouldn't push it past 11psi, 12psi max if you are only on the throttle for small periods of time.

The R33's inhale much easier and will make good power with 11psi, ECU, exhaust and fmic.

The RB20DET and RB25DET really can't be compared as they both run different comp ratio's. Detonation = High EGT's.

On the throttle small for short spurts (first second and a little third) my rb20det turbo didn't have any problems running 16psi, for a little while there I even pushed it to 17psi but had it tapering off to 16psi by 7000rpm as it made me nervous to run 17psi through the whole range.

It also comes down to luck, ive heard of stock turbo's throwing their wheel at stock boost levels. But what I don't know is was the car detonation or leaning out?? :thumbsup:

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yer that happens when u run more air flow through ur engine turbo boost' more with the increased air flow, i ran my old car like that for over a year and no probs on 12 psi, but i had bigger injectors and fuel pump.. its not the heat that kills it. it is lack of fuel, hot air going in without enough fuel causes bad ignition which generates alot of heat, and thats what will **** up ur engine, if u put in a bigger fuel pump and injectors, even if they aint huge. lets say u have an rb20 u can go like a 040 bosch pump and rb25 injectors, or if u have a rb25 u can go rb26 injectors with an 040 or 044 its very cheap and a must do to keep ur engine safe imho, mind u im not an expert, this is just in my experience with skylines over the last 2 year feel free to correct me on anything if u know better!

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First things first tho. Leave the fuel reg alone, set the gauge up off something else, back of the plenum or something. I've been told it can help the car lean out, better safe than sorry!

can u give us an idea how to do this?

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rb20 u can go like a 040 bosch pump and rb25 injectors, or if u have a rb25 u can go rb26 injectors with an 040 or 044 its very cheap and a must do to keep ur engine safe imho

The Rb20 runs top feed injectors so you don't want to be dropping in rb25 sidefeed injectors. You want the GTR injectors in the RB20 as they are top feed.

The RB25 as I said previously runs sidefeed injectors, for the rb25 you want sr20 480cc injectors.

when u run more air flow through ur engine turbo boost' more with the increased air flow
its not the heat that kills it.

Essentially it is, when you lean out the EGT's are high, if and when it detonates egt's are even higher again. :)

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As far as i know:)

With the AVCR left off my car with exhaust, filter and IC use to run 12-13psi. SUed the AVCR to boost it up to 14-15psi. That turbo did 150,00kms before being taken off, (still working mind you) Poor old std turbo saw plenty of track use, on the cooler days it even did track days with 15psi.

And did plenty of track days with a hit of toluene, which apparantly increase EGT, so i think you will find the RB20 turbo is a little more durable then the R33/34 turbs, even with them being a bit older the turbs dont seem to be so prone to failure.

That said, sh1t happens so its up to you:(

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on the subject of boost, is it possible on a r32 rb20det, to get a "free" boost increase, i heard it can be done on silvias with rerouting the vacuum hoses etc, just wondering if i could get the turbo spooling more then 7psi (if i am doing that much at all...it auto)without a bleed valve.

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i got a rb20gtst with cat-bak exhaust,k&n filter, running 10psi n was dyno tuned with 127kw at the rear wheels, n was told i was running rich fuel ratio, is there anyone else with similiar (standard) specs that has also been dynoed? plz show ur stats so i can reflect them on my r32. im also looking for other r32 gtst n gtr parts!

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RSTME,

My R32 is stock as a rock except for 3.5" Stainless catback exhaust & Trust Pod. I havent had it dynoed yet but I know for sure it is running rich because I can hear the backfireing and popping sometimes as a result. They all seem to run rich with a good exhaust. I'm getting it tuned when I get my FMIC & Boost Controller installed. :D

Chris.

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