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I 'think' it was a series 2. Late 1992.

Not all EBC's will hold boost up high. Only the 'auto' ebc's will as they learn the boost curve. i.e Blitz SBC-iD & AVCR.

The blitz is what I used prior to the actuator mod. Only the Auto mode held boost, manual mode dropped boost. :(

Pushing the turbo just that little more helps gain a few more rwkw.

As I noticed 12.5psi to 15psi didn't really gain much more top end power as the turbo at the higher rpm's was way out of efficiency. Thats where a good FMIC helps.

Obviously 12.5 to 15psi picks up nice lump of power through the mid range where the turbo is still in its mid range. :(

Either that or you could do a bodgy mod like this.. :(

Grab a big arsed Yellow screw driver and ring spanner.

Loosen off the actuator bolts jimmy the actuator away from the turbo and tighten up the bolts. Be carefull with the right foot as just a little too much adjustment will easily see 18+psi. :cheers:

 

With this setup I didn't need any form of bleeder or boost controller.

It also held any boost level to redline and beyond. Bleeders would tend to drop back to 12.5psi over 5500rpm. EBC's held boost, this free mod does what an ebc does. :)

are you saying that your right foot is the "boost controller" so to speak. What if your energetic and forget this in a sprint run? :Bang: maybe?

So joel, are you saying that your right foot is the "boost controller" so to speak. What if your energetic and forget this in a sprint run? :Bang: maybe?

That is correct ONLY when setting up the boost level.

Once it is set obviously put the foot flat and it will only go up to what you set it to.

Adjusting the actuators postion simple increases or reduces the available travel for the wastegate.

Move the actuator towards the front of the car, away from the turbo, and it will increase boost as the wastegate flap won't be able to open as much. Move the actuator towards the rear of the car, towards the turbo, and you will make less boost than standard.

So you fiddle with the actuator's postion (see picture and holes how they are elongated) to get the required boost you want.

BUT as I said be carefull it is easy to adjust it just that little too much and send boost 18+. Luckly the RB20DET ECU has a nice little function called a fuel cut that cuts power/fuel at around 17-18psi. But don't rely on it. lol

Is it a little clearer now?!? :)

Is the actual redline 7k or 7.5k on the tacho? People seem to say RBs (and CA's) can rev better than Sr20s... yet an sr20 redline is 7.5k, is the RB the same? Obviously i know these engines are simply happier at those higher rpms too

if you look at things rb engines are rated to hit max power at 6800rpm afaik, and sr20's at 5600? or something along those lines, so the sr20 as ud guess will feel flat after 5600, why the rb20 feels nice revving all the way upto 7 grand, not sure about the ca's? but they have a design more similar to the rb engine with the iron block as far as i know

Nah dude SRs are 6,400rpm and CAs are the same. However ive been in CAs and SRs and even though (most of the time) the SR pulls better, it wont go up to that 7,500rpm+ redline happily, the CA loves it haha

Hoping the RB is very similar to that! Hopefully 250rwhp in a R32 doesnt feel slow.. my mates 250rwhp 180 (obviously lighter) feels damn quick :)

  • 5 weeks later...

lol at dropping the exhaust,i just purchased a combined dump n front pipe n small 3" CATCO cat from BATMBL, soon as i put this on i will be getting it dynoed again.

will this increase the psi i run on cold nights???:)

i heard it spools earlier....

im tempted to do that actuator mod or better to be safe n buy an EBC?

i put my 3" combined dump n front pipe n cat(from BATMBL) on thisafternoon,and a boost gauge aswell,i noticed it goes to 11psi then drops to 10psi,do i need to get it dynoed to get more psi?would this have given me more rwkw?

it feels more responsive,like more torque n can actually hear the exhaust rev abit more compared to the turbo whissling. but it spools heaps earlier, ALL round Better!

Should of gone a split dump + front pipe.. wud of flowed alot better. Dyno tuning will do nothing for ur psi, thats ur boost controller and im guessin you dont have one? If you have a bleeder (as most boost controllers do) they tend to drop boost off towards the top end anyhow, nothing new nothing to worry about! Not sure if u have a cat-back, if not get one and you should run around 13psi without a boost controller (that comes bak down to around 10psi)

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