RB25DET probs with changeover motor

[jager]

k over the weekend i pulled out my old motor and put a new one in (a R33 GTS-t)

now before i had probs with my motor i pulled out 190rwkw, then as the rings went i got 160rwkw, bit of a done fall so i purchased a new motor 2nd hand 40,000k's on it changed it but now i only have a 124rwkw, i change the water pump as it was bent at the shaft, same with the cam gear and timing thing on front of the cam gear, pulled these off my old motor, now i know i kinda being vague here, but has anyone come accross this kinda power loss from engine changes and over come it??

what was/is the common problem i might be overlooking

its at blackwood dyno at the moment i heard these guys are good so i hope they can find it

im kinda at a loss any ideas??

[cameron]

That little thing on the front of the engine is called the Crank angel sensor or Cam angel sensor aka CAS.

If the timing has been retarded then you will get a loss of power, viseverser, advance it and you get more power but you also get detination ! = Not good The screw should be set in the middle ruffly, Or you can get a timing light and set it at 15º BTDC.

Retarded = Turning Clockwise

Advance = Turning Anti-Clockwise

Jun

[RB30-POWER]

Sounds like the timing is out?

Either the CAS or belt itself may be out a couple of teeth.

Could be any one of a hundred problems in reality though.

I wouldn't get to concerned just yet about the woeful power output.

Im sure the guys at blackwoods will find something.

[cameron]

Belt meaning timing belt ?

The car wouldn't run very healthy if the timing belt jumped a couple of teath, and it might be smashing or hitting valve's - but you never know!

The easiest thing to do would be chuck a timing light on it and see what the timing is doing or just look at the CAS it self to see were its positioned.

Jun

[jager]

cheers fella, got a call yesterday, the belt was a few teeth off even we lined up by all three points pulls only 151rwkw one thing i kinda dont understand is with this list of mods i kinda expect 200rwkw -

GTR Size intercooler from ASE

2.5" stainless steel piping for the cooler

3" s/s intake pipe

3" or 3.5" dump + high flow cat + full exhaust

EBC set up to 1.2 bar 13-14psi

air pod

uni-chip + fuel cut defender (all limiters taken off)

GTR fuel pump (should i get a gtr fuel regulator??)

auto box has been upgraded with a stage 2 shift kit

im not dreaming am i?? coz before i put on the s/s air intake and s/s dump pipe and unichip i had 190rwkw, but these units were installed by turbo tune and returned with 160rwkw, later i found out my oil rings were gone thanks to balckwood they actually told me what was wrong with the car unlike turbo tune who couldn't tune a skate board proberly

[BHDave]

Unichips aren't the best and it sounds like the tune is a dud if you have lost so much power since the unichip was installed. The dump on it's own should gain a few kw at the top end and the intake wont hurt power.

I'd get it retuned, or better yet get rid of the unichip and gain an instant 30kw, then get a decent aftermarket ecu and a good tuner and gain another few kw.

Then wait for your stock turbo to cark it as you have found the limit of the stock setup.

[jager]

well when i went to JMS i was talking to one guy at the desk a while ago about what turbo to upgrade for around 200rwkw, he said with the r33 all you need is a FMIC, larger dump gtr fule and regulator put it up to a bar and youshould be easliy at 200rwkw off the stock turbo,with the stock computer, maybe he was talking ...shitoo.

its getting retuned again on thrusday as i said i wasn't happy with what he got yesterday

[RB30-POWER]

I would expect to see 180kw at the treads with those sorts of mods atleast.

Who ever tuned it, may not have made the timing maps real agressive.

How does the VCT switch over with the unichip, still the same rpm point as controlled by the factory ecu?

Also when i say 180rwkw i mean that figure should be acheivable with stock management, with the piggyback ecu, you would expect to see maybe 200rwkw if you trimmed the fuel mixtures.

[BHDave]

You can make 200rwkw with the mods you have, it's just that the stock management will be dumping in way too much fuel at the top end to make that power. You absolutely have to have an safc at least to remove some of this fuel, your uni chip should be able to do it too but it has been tuned badly by the sound of it. Problem with the uni chip is it's inability to do a good job tuning bigger injectors and different afms.

The thing is, when you start to push 1bar through the stock turbo you may be lucky and have it last a year, you may not and it'll last a month.

[jager]

just got a call from BDThe has pulled out 174rwkw, which as you can see im not to happy with, i got my old dyno sheets so im gonna take em down with me and see where this bill of $530 comes from?? no bits have been added just tuning, i think this is a bit excessive especially when they haven't reach the goal i set

BHdave

my old motor i push about 1.2 bar through it for two years no probs, however i was only using it when needed like city driving 0.7 bar for a boost 1.2 Bar however there aren't many differences in power between 1.0bar and 1.2 bar. and no i did blow my engine from overboosting, it was from no warming the car up i just started and drove off sometime full foot down, sometimes being easy... i learnt the hard way over not warming up but from now i will be(even if im late stuff em)

well see tomorrow, i want 200rwkw i was so close before!!!

[RB30-POWER]

Just make sure, the previous dyno runs and the current runs are being done in the same dyno modes (i.e shootout etc) and also see if they are both being dyno'd in the same gear.

These little things may have some bearing on the results.

Tuned with the same quality fuel as before?

[Cubes]

My experience with Blackwood Auto & Dyno is good BUT their timing light is bodgy.

My nice fresh new motor.. They checked the timing and said.. Yep its at 15degree's.

I was like.. hrmm... ok...

I had massive reversion issues with early boost & the car would ping really easy.

Took it to Shaun @ Boostworx and discovered it was at 5degree's.

Bumped it up to 15degree's and it was perfect.

So make sure they are timing it correctly because as Shaun said.. The cheaper Timing lights have issues with the some of the skylines that double pulse.

[RNS11Z]

what model is your car and what model is the engine S1 or S2??

We put a s2 engine in a s1 and had to change some of the wiring.

[jager]

thats it i don't know if i have a series 2 or 1 motor i did have a series 2 motor i didn't need change any wiring over so maybe i have a s2 motor, these results are on dif dynos however i got the car back today with 174rwkw, bdt said thats all i can get out of it, but also keep in mind that it was 37 degree day the dyno was doneso a few xtra kw should be easy on a cooler day, but i do have to say the car moves a lot quicker of the line

they moved it so the turbo comes on earlier i have more power down low then i did before only running 11psi

i only use BP ultimate

however when i did have 190rwkw turbo tune insisted i put a bottle of octane booster in on each tank, maybe that was it???

well anyways not intirely happy as i ran short of my goal, but i in the next few weeeks gonna go down to AIR on wednesday and see what i pull, hoping for a 13(high or low) sec pass maybe im dreaming again, well see what the auto can do