Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know if the Stagea has a different standard exhaust to the R33 GTST just up to the catalyic convertor. The reason being is that Im looking at buying a pre-fabricated dump pipe and high flow cat from the following thread or similar and wondering if it will fit the Stagea as well or if our exhaust/floorpan/firewall is too different.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=15558

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62729-stagea-exhaust-differences/
Share on other sites

Does anyone know if the Stagea has a different standard exhaust  to the R33 GTST just up to the catalyic convertor. The reason being is that Im looking at buying a pre-fabricated dump pipe and high flow cat from the following thread or similar and wondering if it will fit the Stagea as well or if our exhaust/floorpan/firewall is too different.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=15558

Same, if I remember rightly there are 3 guys using R33 GTST engine pipes. I am using an R32 GTST combo (split dump and engine pipe in one) on mine. The part numbers are the same from a couple of Jap suppliers. Don't know about the cat, but I can't see any reason why it would be different.:)

Hey Lone and SK

Good info - was looking at that Cat and dump pipe thread myself .... now for the dumbass question SK... If mine is a Series 2 stagea should I be ordering the R34GTT front/dump pipe or the R33 one Lone is getting???? I hate being so unknowledgable about cars :)

Cheers

Adam

Thanks so much for that sk :rofl:  

Brazen: I would imagine the R34GTT would be the one to go for..

Thanks Lone

trying to do the math... that sale thread works out at $500 for the CAT and dump... plus been quoted around $750 fitted for an HKS 3" Superflow exhaust (Stagea specific) from a tune shop here... $1250 before paying for pipe/cat fitment

The tune shop doing the zaust quoted around $1400 all up for zaust and 3" dump/front and high flow cat... I think being a car noob Im probably better of paying the extra $150 to have everything done and warrantied by my tune guys (itd prob cost that for the CAT/pipe fitment anyway?).

I am on a steep learning curve with all this stuff - but for $1400 turbo-back including HKS zaust might just go ahead with that quote... sound ok???

Seeming I already have the cat-back done I am now only needing the turbo to cat and cat replaced now so these items are starting to look a better priced to me then the local muffler shop I go to..

$250 (dump) + $190 (cat) + $20 = $460

The local shop was $660 for it all to be done, I can get the fitting done for practically free here at work so thats no issue, so Im looking at a $200 saving..

Then I guess the real issue is if it cracked etc. I would be going to the muffler shop and they would charge me for it whereas if it were their own they would probably do it for free..

So the real question is whether the $200 saving will be really worth it or not, also there could still be the slight chance it may not fit whereas I know the local muffler shops will :D

Hi guys, I prefer split dumps (one pipe for wastegate and one for turbine) over combined and the longer they are separated the better. So I never buy a separate dump and an engine pipe, the dump is too short to have long enough separation. I use combined dump and engine pipe that way the separation can be really long to keep the wastegate turbulance away from the turbine exit.

This is the CES one;

gts-t_dump_pipe.jpg

Hope that helps:cheers:

I ended up going a full custom made job. 3 inch turbo back, through a 3 inch cat (that I supplied), then resonator and rear muffler. All mandrel bends etc..

Sounds nice, has a very nice rumble at idle, but has no drone when cruising.

Mine costed $950 if I remember right.

J

I have a Performance Metalcraft (work of art) split dump and engine pipe combo in stainless steel. It is wrapped in Thermoctec back to the cat. The cat is a Magic 4" stainless. The exhaust is a nice, quiet no name, low stainless content, 80mm Jap brand that came off the R32 GTST. It has a large resonator and a huge rear muffler. I have to lengthen it after the diff as the Stagea is longer than the R32. Total cost $1400. :D

PS; I am going ot be using a Trust 95 mm titanium on the R32GTST, as the RB31DET will need it.

  • 3 months later...

Man we got alot of pages of Stagea threads now - finding this exhaust thread took some digging!

*puts down shovel

Stumbled across this list of Stagea specific exhausts from Japan...

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...3D%26safe%3Doff

Also got tabs to other typesof parts too

  • 3 weeks later...
Does anyone know of a place that sells the split engine/dump (like the image posted by SK) pipes for the Neo? I have been looking around for about a week and have only found them for r32/r33.

It looks like BATMBL doesn't even have them...

CES in QLD do them definitely (as SK wrote above the pic :P ) - I was gonna get some last month - also the best dumps going around! Around $600, plus $120 or $150 for ceramic coating I think it was.

:P

Ahh... I looked on their site but obviously didn't look hard enough. I will contact them and see what they say.

$600 seems a bit expensive compared to the prices of the normal (non-split) ones though.

Yup it is alot - so something ud be doing if your really going for optimum power with your exhaust setup... they are the best - but how much do you pay for the best... its up to each individual. I prob wouldnt bother with front dumps until I had the cash for the CES splits though. My mate just fitted his to his GTR and they ARE that good... but yeah - its still $600.

As for the R34 split dumps on their website - might not be there cant remember - newer product... I know I had to email them about it.

:P

The flange mounts will be the same, although the reason why they list a R33 and a R34 front/dumps would be because of the different floor pan. So the bends and where the front pipe mounts to the cat may be different between the R33 and R34's..

Soooo, as the Stagea series 1 and 2's share the same floor pan then the front/dumps pipes will be the same.

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
    • Does that price include the rack time to straighten the frame and body and replacement of parts and paint, as well as the noise and emmisions testing  The last engineering certificate I had done, albeit about 15 years ago, was around $1000 for a few inspections and the certificate 
×
×
  • Create New...