Jump to content
SAU Community

Automatic Transmission Shift Kit. - Updated Oct 2006


Recommended Posts

I got my package today and if everything works out it'll be in on the weekend.

I'll keep you all posted.

Also, I've started a new thread about possible gearbox problems i'm having.

Any help will be appreciated. Thanx.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...686#post1224686

standard cooler is tiny, about 1/3 of the upgrade

for those curious people

here's a pic of the MV cooler upgrade

got it today with the new valvebody

Awesome, ill be getting one of those too

Shift kit is in!

definitely tighter shifts... but a bit more brutal in my case since Ive got a wolf in as well, still within reason though

Will be sending valvebody back real soon

tomorrow or day after, its still soaked in oil

The trans-cooler also went in, too bad had to mount it between radiator and FMIC (stock location) would have preffered a better location.

So is it gentle at lower speeds still?  Can you please give us a more detailed description lukits?

At lower speeds it shifts like factory, I couldn't really feel any difference. But at high rpm, shifts are definitely more jerky, chirps the back wheels a bit in my case

Any figures on how much power the auto box can handle now with the shift kit and trans cooler?

My tuner has very little faith in them...

I beleive mike himself on zoom mag said 'With a good condition box and one of my shift kits.. 300kw)

Im about to call MV auto now and get things rolling

Also, did you install yourself lukits?

The trans-cooler also went in, too bad had to mount it between radiator and FMIC (stock location) would have preffered a better location.

What about next to the pasenger side wheel well behind front clip where there is a slotted panel behind old IC (at least on GTS -Make some if not)? At least the air will be cooler going through it. A Fan would help as well.

No I didnt try to mount the valvebody or trans cooler myself

What about next to the pasenger side wheel well behind front clip where there is a slotted panel behind old IC (at least on GTS -Make some if not)? At least the air will be cooler going through it. A Fan would help as well.

I dont think the lines that come with the trans cooler is long enough to have it mounted on the passenger side and besides my intercooler piping sorta blocks the airway from the front bumper slightly

i want 1 in about 1-2 weeks with service kit

Any other Gold Coast people wanna have it done at the same time to save on postage ?????

Called mv the other day and made an order, just waiting for some ppl to send their valvebodies back before he can send anymore out

my auto is starting to play up a little in 3rd gear, occasionally it drops down as if it was in neutral.. asked mike about it and he says its something to do with the engine or trans brake and it should be ok

still, im a bit picky and like everything to be perfect :wassup:

either way i have another auto sitting at my dads house ready to go in if this one breaks :(

anyone who needs somewhere to go in brisbane for auto work.. apparently Athena Automatics are pretty good, had a mate take his auto 180 there with a blown box and with a box he supplied they changed them for $2xx

ide imagine fitting a valvebody + full flush and new fluid (depending on fluid, i use full synthetic = $45 per 4L) wouldnt cost more than $100 max at an automatic specialist

everyone post up how their install went and details so the rest can be informed :P

also, has anyone actually broken their auto and have a new one put it or work done on it?

Sent valvebody back to MV yesterday

Ive used my shift kitted auto-box to the max yesterday from standing start to 6-7k rpm on 4th gear. It shifts nicely at full throttle even with wolf3d. My tyres are crap so it takes a bit of throttle control when shifting from 1st to 2nd to maintain traction.

But ive seem to have a problem with the geearbox computer, often esspecially when its warm, it shifts gears too early. In one run I would go up to 5000rpm and it would shift, other times at 5500, 6000, 6500. Any ideas why the auto box wont shift at 7000 all the time?

Have you tried using the POWER shift button?

I just read your post again and noticed you're using Wolf3D. I'd say that's whats causing the problem for you. The aftermarket computers don't work well with Auto boxes. They are no designed to comunicate with the Auto ECU.

The normal Auto computer has to comunicate to the main ECU. There's a few wires between them. The Auto computer retrives the speed and rev signals. Not sure about the rest.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...