Jump to content
SAU Community

Automatic Transmission Shift Kit. - Updated Oct 2006


Recommended Posts

Great news tikki169.

Have fun giving those manuals a run, I now find that in a street drag (on private roads of course) that even if we pull off at the same time and at the same rate, the gear changes will be where I pull ahead.

I have to agree, bang for buck it makes a great difference to the drive.

Put mine in myself the other day also,

will post some pictures etc in the next few days when i get the camera and computer together :rofl:

fairly big difference, feels a little more responsive everywhere but gearchanges are where its definately heaps better. gearchange times have been cut in half if not more.

i got about 5.5L out from draining and replaced with transmax z,

Auto is running great now

Don't know if anyone else has noticed but mt fuel economy has actually gotten better. I'm now getting 360-370 KM per tank where as before I was getting 330-340. That's city driving with hard take offs.

Definately worth it,

I did some proper full trottle runs the other nite and i must say im pretty impressed, been awhile since ive got home with a big smile on my face :P

gotta get some tuning done and some other little tid bits but with a good launch im hoping to see low 13s consistantly

OK, the Valve Body is in and I'm very impressed.

The gear changes are much quicker. It takes aprox. three times less to change gears than before.

The ride quality hasn't changed much. The only difference is from first to second, it's not as smooth as before, even with light throtle, but with full throtle it chirps easy.

I'm very happy with the result and I highly recommended.

Great stuff nedb

Spread the work and remember to return those old valve bodies so that others can get their kit posted out.

I'm glad the rest of you are as pleased as I was with this kit. I was initially worried about recommending the kit (I dont usually recomend anything unless I am sure) for fear that others wouldnt think it was as good as I did. I think bang for buck it is probably up there with a new turbo, it makes a huge difference.

It would be great if somebody did before and after dyno runs with no other changes.

I think we would see some interesting results. :cheers: My seat of the pants tool can feel quite a bit of difference. :(

Why I think there could be a difference in power is, it feels like there is more torque now and there's possibly less power loss through the gearbox.

It could be one of those placebo effects but i'm happy. :cheers:

But again some other facts in my case: my gearbox has done more than 150 000 and it has just been refreshed with some RedLine stuff. So the new valve body and the fancy fluid has definitively made my car feel different.

Just saw this thread now, but is this group buy still running? i.e. would i still get a discount on the price if i ring up now?

Yes its still going. Ring MV Automatics (see page 1 for details).

hey everyone

can someone pls post up some pics as im planning to do this very soon; but have no idea about what i need to do (or where to look for that matter!)

and has anyone done this at a workshop in melbourne?

thanks

I pulled my valvebody out on the weekend and sent it to Mike yesterday. There are sooo many bolts in there its scary. There are about 6 different kinds of bolts too. They are different lengths.

I was really worried so first I drew a diagram with the bolt numbers. Then when I took the bolts out I laid them carefully in the right order and placement. I also took lots of photos.

The problem is that you don't need to take them all out but it's really hard to tell which ones you don't have to take out. I ended up with about 38 bolts out (not including the 30 from the pan) but Mike said I only need to take take out about 7.

The other problem is that the bloody thing never stops dripping transmission fluid all over you so it's really hard to peer up into it and see what's going on without getting fluid in your eye.

Also, I think he underestimated in that some of the wires and and sensors that unplug from the valvebody are bolted in. So you don't need to unbolt these bolts because they hold the valvebody up but if you don't then the thing will be hanging by its wires when you unbolt it all.

After all this stuffing around on the weekend, I spoke to Mike yesterday and he said not to worry about where the bolts all go, just rip em all out because he will put it together properly so when you get it back it will be obvious which bolt goes where. So I am now sending all the bolts down to him.

If you are doing it yourself it might help you to know the following:

There is a black roughly oblong shaped pan thing bolted to the bottom of the valvebody. This is the filter. Unbolt it completely and get Mike to put a new one on. This is general maintenance that you should be doing anyway.

None of the bolts that are covered by the filter require removing.

I suggest you go around the outside of the valvebody taking those bolts off then crack ALL of the rest of the bolts. This enables you to wiggle the whole valvebody around and then you can see which ones are holding the thing up.

Hope this helps. It was a totally new experience for me.

ps have fun playing in the transmission fluid. You will get it everywhere.

  • Like 1

Yeah I know what you mean about the dripping. We're lucky cause I had the new VB with me I just matched up which ones were out the VB and removed them from the VB still attached. Just make sure you see which cprings go where because only one is goingh to go back in. Otherwise not a bad job at all. O and having ramps helps a ton.

I am tossing up between redline high temp and racing.

150 litres came out of the transmission... all over the ground and all over me and about 4 or 5 litres in the drain tub.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
×
×
  • Create New...