Jump to content
SAU Community

Automatic Transmission Shift Kit. - Updated Oct 2006


Recommended Posts

i went to an automatic specialist in melbourne and they suggested to get a second standard trans oil cooler and link them together.

he suggested this b/c he believes that it'll do the same job as a replacement trans oil cooler; for lower cost.

i dont know how true this would be; but sounds reasonable to me.....?

My kit finally arrived today , sheezz Ausie Post had me worried... near on two weeks from Adelaide to Townsville.

Anyway, the next dilemma now, trying to get a filter service kit locally..... was told it was no probs so i didnt get mike to send one.... and after ringing a few auto places ...none..... ring Nissan and part way thru the convo, after asking for an "auto" filter service kit, he asks me if its a manual......... Sheezzz No.2 .... So i said, look dont worry about it ..... :D

Sigh, if i can get one its going in tomorrow night..... but i know my luck..... Either way i should be able to drag it again this sat to see the difference.

Gary

Installed the kit tonight, i pity you guys who did it on the ground !!! Hoist is magic, add a height adjustable oil catch, and its alot less messy, although still some.

Works fine, pretty smooth at light throttle... in some instances its nicer than before , due to not having a factory comp , it was surging abit anyhow.

Anyway , happy with it.

Gary

  • 3 weeks later...

Ive had the shift kit in for awhile now, must say it still works great, but now the gearbox is developping this rattle on D and idle, which Im assuming can't be good. But everything still works, so Im starting to wonder whats the next step I could take to strengthen the auto. I remember reading in ZOOM about their project 11sec Auto R33 having Kevlar clutches from MV automatic, anyone have an idea on the subject?

  • 2 weeks later...
Ive had the shift kit in for awhile now, must say it still works great, but now the gearbox is developping this rattle on D and idle, which Im assuming can't be good. But everything still works, so Im starting to wonder whats the next step I could take to strengthen the auto. I remember reading in ZOOM about their project 11sec Auto R33 having Kevlar clutches from MV automatic, anyone have an idea on the subject?

That's what I got with my full rebuild. About $3k from memory but that included a rebuilt stally too.

How did you do Abo Bob? did you send your gearbox to MV automatics? or did you get them to send you the parts and you found someone in NSW to install them for you?

How does the new stall converter feel around town?

I had to send them the whole box.

The converter is ok. Not really much different.

One problem is that the overun clutch isn't engaging in second gear. Mike says this is probably because of too much line pressure and I might have to send the valvebody back to him to wind it back a touch. That's going to suck.

It's nice and tough now but the problem I'm getting is that when I change gears the ECU drops the timing to take it easy on the box but since it changes so quick now and doesn't need that timing drop it's taking time to spool the torque converter back up and I think I'm losing a bit of boost too which can't then get back up until the torque converter has spooled putting a load on the engine.

End result is that with 190rwkw and stock box I ran 13.8@99 and with new box and 230rwkw I could only get 13.5@103. On one run I short changed 1st gear which resulted in something like (I can't remember exactly) 13.8@107.

  • 4 months later...

abo bob what stall speed did they set it too ? I've just got my hiflow done and also the suspension kit from sydneykids GB, so its all going in soon as i get time. only thing else i can think to do then is a stall upgrade.... about 3000 would be nice , maybe a tad more. i can get to about 2200 now and then wheels start turning. The only premise is that the lock up has to still work, as i dont want to be slipping that much more when crusing.

Does your lockup work good still ?

Gary

yeah that is my big concern too - slipping whilst cruising = terrible fuel economy. I can stall mine up to about the same - 2,200 before the rears light up. I can actually get a pretty good launch at those sort of revs - so I am not convinced I want to make the stall any higher.

Also, over 3,000prm you would be making too much power/torque (I would think) - and would you ever be able to get any decent traction off the line when launching hard?

Since Bob's trans blew, I have actually been second guessing even doing the t/b upgrade. But when I chatted with Mike he said it was a great idea, and Guy (4_door_sleeper) has had his done and raves about it every time I see him :rofl: .... I don't know - decisions, decisions ....

One thing I don't quite understand is that the stall speed stock was theoretically 1500rpm but it plainly does not stall at those revs. Mine is supposedly 1800 so treat this information as relative to itself only.

I have noticed that mine locks and unlocks a lot more than it used to although fuel economy is the same as it ever was even though I've gone from 189rwkw to 255rwkw. It doesn't unlock on cruise per se, just say you are cruising at 60km/h and then hit a slight incline it will unlock. To be expected really. It's kind of like having extra gears in between.

You wouldn't have too much power with a higher stally, just need better tyres.

The Valvebody upgrade (I think that's what you meant) is good because it will keep things cooler when shifting. I suggest you get a temperature gauge for your auto so you know what it's doing. I have just done this and it has given me a much greater appreciation of what is going on in there.

I spoke to mike the other day about a new group buy for torque converters. He told me that a 2800rpm stall would be a good street level unit (foot on the brake and you should be able to push the stall out to 3200rpm) that is drivable at 60kmhr.

He will do a group discount again for us, but he may need to get a few satandard torque converters in first as in the past he has modified them as they come out of the car, and this would result in a slower turn around.

I will post more later.

Abo Bob - have you thought about putting a PFC in the car and trying that, as you said you dont meed the ignition to retard on gear changes anymore, so why use the auto ecu? (you could even try a stock manual ecu in the car)

  • 2 weeks later...

I'd be keen for a 2800 rpm stall (3200 actual) . So long as the lockup still works no probs... that would be perfect !

Gary

yep I'm keen to do this when I do the v/b upgrade

Edited by Nightcrawler

seeing as theres been quite a few ppl have done this valve body assembly upgrade, im finally ready to do it myself.

along with the upgrade, i need to get another standard transmission oil cooler.

if anyone has upgrade to a bigger trans oil cooler, can i please buy ur old standard one?

if u're interstate, im willing to pay for postage to melbourne. PM me if anyone wants to get rid of an unwanted part!

thanks guys!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
    • I leant out the window recently and took a picture of this new WRX. It looked real damn fine in person. It's faster around a track (stock) than a (stock) GR Yaris. It's much more practical despite being heavier. It's significantly cheaper. This gen tunes really well, much better than others. .... I think they're probably a lot better than people expect.
×
×
  • Create New...