Automatic Transmission Shift Kit. - Updated Oct 2006

[SWC945]

i went to an automatic specialist in melbourne and they suggested to get a second standard trans oil cooler and link them together.

he suggested this b/c he believes that it'll do the same job as a replacement trans oil cooler; for lower cost.

i dont know how true this would be; but sounds reasonable to me.....?

[Fastrotor]

My kit finally arrived today , sheezz Ausie Post had me worried... near on two weeks from Adelaide to Townsville.

Anyway, the next dilemma now, trying to get a filter service kit locally..... was told it was no probs so i didnt get mike to send one.... and after ringing a few auto places ...none..... ring Nissan and part way thru the convo, after asking for an "auto" filter service kit, he asks me if its a manual......... Sheezzz No.2 .... So i said, look dont worry about it .....

Sigh, if i can get one its going in tomorrow night..... but i know my luck..... Either way i should be able to drag it again this sat to see the difference.

Gary

[Fastrotor]

Installed the kit tonight, i pity you guys who did it on the ground !!! Hoist is magic, add a height adjustable oil catch, and its alot less messy, although still some.

Works fine, pretty smooth at light throttle... in some instances its nicer than before , due to not having a factory comp , it was surging abit anyhow.

Anyway , happy with it.

Gary

[Abo Bob]

Yep I did it on the ground

[lukits01]

Ive had the shift kit in for awhile now, must say it still works great, but now the gearbox is developping this rattle on D and idle, which Im assuming can't be good. But everything still works, so Im starting to wonder whats the next step I could take to strengthen the auto. I remember reading in ZOOM about their project 11sec Auto R33 having Kevlar clutches from MV automatic, anyone have an idea on the subject?

[33truballa33]

i was wondering since this is over what is the price back up to? and if anyone has mikes email address because I dont really want to call overseas

[Abo Bob]

Ive had the shift kit in for awhile now, must say it still works great, but now the gearbox is developping this rattle on D and idle, which Im assuming can't be good. But everything still works, so Im starting to wonder whats the next step I could take to strengthen the auto. I remember reading in ZOOM about their project 11sec Auto R33 having Kevlar clutches from MV automatic, anyone have an idea on the subject?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That's what I got with my full rebuild. About $3k from memory but that included a rebuilt stally too.

[lukits01]

How did you do Abo Bob? did you send your gearbox to MV automatics? or did you get them to send you the parts and you found someone in NSW to install them for you?

How does the new stall converter feel around town?

[Abo Bob]

I had to send them the whole box.

The converter is ok. Not really much different.

One problem is that the overun clutch isn't engaging in second gear. Mike says this is probably because of too much line pressure and I might have to send the valvebody back to him to wind it back a touch. That's going to suck.

It's nice and tough now but the problem I'm getting is that when I change gears the ECU drops the timing to take it easy on the box but since it changes so quick now and doesn't need that timing drop it's taking time to spool the torque converter back up and I think I'm losing a bit of boost too which can't then get back up until the torque converter has spooled putting a load on the engine.

End result is that with 190rwkw and stock box I ran 13.8@99 and with new box and 230rwkw I could only get 13.5@103. On one run I short changed 1st gear which resulted in something like (I can't remember exactly) 13.8@107.

[DANSR33]

are these kits still available, please pm me with some more info, thanks!!!!!

[Abo Bob]

Call Mike at MV AUTOMATICS (1 Stirling Rd Blackwood SA 5051 (08) 8370 0430 ) and ask him.

[Fastrotor]

abo bob what stall speed did they set it too ? I've just got my hiflow done and also the suspension kit from sydneykids GB, so its all going in soon as i get time. only thing else i can think to do then is a stall upgrade.... about 3000 would be nice , maybe a tad more. i can get to about 2200 now and then wheels start turning. The only premise is that the lock up has to still work, as i dont want to be slipping that much more when crusing.

Does your lockup work good still ?

Gary

[Nightcrawler]

yeah that is my big concern too - slipping whilst cruising = terrible fuel economy. I can stall mine up to about the same - 2,200 before the rears light up. I can actually get a pretty good launch at those sort of revs - so I am not convinced I want to make the stall any higher.

Also, over 3,000prm you would be making too much power/torque (I would think) - and would you ever be able to get any decent traction off the line when launching hard?

Since Bob's trans blew, I have actually been second guessing even doing the t/b upgrade. But when I chatted with Mike he said it was a great idea, and Guy (4_door_sleeper) has had his done and raves about it every time I see him .... I don't know - decisions, decisions ....

[Abo Bob]

One thing I don't quite understand is that the stall speed stock was theoretically 1500rpm but it plainly does not stall at those revs. Mine is supposedly 1800 so treat this information as relative to itself only.

I have noticed that mine locks and unlocks a lot more than it used to although fuel economy is the same as it ever was even though I've gone from 189rwkw to 255rwkw. It doesn't unlock on cruise per se, just say you are cruising at 60km/h and then hit a slight incline it will unlock. To be expected really. It's kind of like having extra gears in between.

You wouldn't have too much power with a higher stally, just need better tyres.

The Valvebody upgrade (I think that's what you meant) is good because it will keep things cooler when shifting. I suggest you get a temperature gauge for your auto so you know what it's doing. I have just done this and it has given me a much greater appreciation of what is going on in there.

[4door_Sleeper]

I spoke to mike the other day about a new group buy for torque converters. He told me that a 2800rpm stall would be a good street level unit (foot on the brake and you should be able to push the stall out to 3200rpm) that is drivable at 60kmhr.

He will do a group discount again for us, but he may need to get a few satandard torque converters in first as in the past he has modified them as they come out of the car, and this would result in a slower turn around.

I will post more later.

Abo Bob - have you thought about putting a PFC in the car and trying that, as you said you dont meed the ignition to retard on gear changes anymore, so why use the auto ecu? (you could even try a stock manual ecu in the car)

[Abo Bob]

It needs the stock ECU to change gears otherwise it just stays stuck in 3rd gear permanently.

[Fastrotor]

I'd be keen for a 2800 rpm stall (3200 actual) . So long as the lockup still works no probs... that would be perfect !

Gary

[lukits01]

Yea, I might be keen on a stall converter kit, depending on price

[Nightcrawler]

yep I'm keen to do this when I do the v/b upgrade

Edited February 2, 2006 by Nightcrawler

[SWC945]

seeing as theres been quite a few ppl have done this valve body assembly upgrade, im finally ready to do it myself.

along with the upgrade, i need to get another standard transmission oil cooler.

if anyone has upgrade to a bigger trans oil cooler, can i please buy ur old standard one?

if u're interstate, im willing to pay for postage to melbourne. PM me if anyone wants to get rid of an unwanted part!

thanks guys!