Jump to content
SAU Community

Automatic Transmission Shift Kit. - Updated Oct 2006


Recommended Posts

Ive been speaking to mike for the last week or so and he has got valve bodies for r34's only prob is he only has a couple from what i understand and i know ones mine so get in quick or you will have to wait for ppl like me to send valve bodies back lol

I believe stock is 1800. To check this out put the car in Drive, put your foot on the break and gently press down on the accelerator.

The revs should quickly rise to about 1800rpm, then slowly up to around 2000rpm before the rears tyres start to spin.

Hope this helps.

  • 4 weeks later...

Just wondering like many others here, is there gonna be another group buy on these shift kits? Also can u feel the difference once these are installed? Is it ok for a daily driver or is it rough? Thx!

stock torque converter is 1500rpm, which can be taken to 1800rpm with foot on the brake

his ideal upgrade (that he recommended to me, thus what i have) is a 2800rpm converter, and can be taken just over 3000rpm with foot-on-brake launch ;)

Just wondering like many others here, is there gonna be another group buy on these shift kits? Also can u feel the difference once these are installed? Is it ok for a daily driver or is it rough? Thx!

The group buy is still running, just phone Mike at MV automatics, tell him you are after the Akylines Australia price on the shift kit / Torque converter or both, and he will send them out.

It is fine for day to day driving, (gentle pedal action) but you will notice a big improvement when you plant your foot quickly

  • 2 weeks later...

Valve body arrived today with transmission cooler, just trying to figure out which auto workshop to go to, does anyone know any workshops in melbourne around the s.e suburbs which i can go to? and what price am i looking at to get it installed, trying to put in b4 friday because i want to drag it on friday. thanks any help much appreciated.

Put mine in last night

sending back valve body next week

so if you are after shift kit for your R34/stagea (tiptronic) get in quick

It was very easy to put it in

and makes going around corners interesting

so are you happy with it? does it feel better to drive? im putting mine in tomorrow and hopefully go to calder tomorrow night and see what it can do.

well the shifts are more direct now

no more flaring into gear

I bought it more for the life of the tranny

Ill be upgrading turbo ECU and Injectors soon so i thought i better try and fix the transmission side of it before i burn it out

Valve body arrived today with transmission cooler, just trying to figure out which auto workshop to go to, does anyone know any workshops in melbourne around the s.e suburbs which i can go to? and what price am i looking at to get it installed, trying to put in b4 friday because i want to drag it on friday. thanks any help much appreciated.

any mechanic can put one in, its nto rocket science, just requiers a hoist and half a brain.. (ok maybe a quarter of a brain...)

getting it put in today for $220 with a service and the transmission cooler put on, and since i don't have a hoist and my car is to low to get on ramps i have no other choice otherwise i would have done it myself. i will let you know how it goes looking foward to getting it back, the auto shifts have always shit me the cars got the power but i agree it flares to much but i have always liked the way the car drives so hopefully if it doesnt flare and i will be really happy.

shifts are alot better no flaring on changes, very happy with it feels alot nicer to drive really have to play with the accelarator now it spins alot on gearchanges overall im pretty impressed.

  • 2 weeks later...

the installation / removal photos have dissapeared from this thread, does anyone have any photos of this process, which bolts etc ??

Can I pay for an exchange, change it over once I recieve, then send my std one back to MV? Or is that, I will recieve a refund once I return my std valve body to MV?

What a frustrating day, i installed my shift kit, no go, wont engage any gears, but feels like its in drive not matter where the stick is, pulled it out, re-installed it...ahhhh, help me someone, i installed the lightest, thinnest spring on the end one where the black diaphram is, blocked off the middle 2 ports with welsh plugs, what else is there to do ? any photos or advice please.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...