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Automatic Transmission Shift Kit. - Updated Oct 2006


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yes I have put in on power button

and this problem was present partially before the wolf went in (stock ECU)

at which time the car was running slightly retarded timing and was making shit all power

and Im pretty sure the wolf has all the standard nissan ECU outputs (manual/auto) and therefore is still sending rev and speed readings to the auto computer but I'll have to check on that

Will be bringing car back to workshop sometime near the end of the week to get injectors installed anyway

One way and possibly the easiest way to test it is to get it into the diagnostics. It will come up with error code if the speed or rev signals are missing.

The steps are here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...tic+diagnostics

Hey guys! I am very interested in picking up one of these - excellent idea! but I dont know how much strain this would put on the box?? I had a couple of mates changed their vavle-bodies (not in skylines) but they boxes blew up on them not that far later...

Hey Ben I will be doing this fairly soon so you can watch mine not blow up if you like :rofl:

No seriously though, they are very tough transmissions from what I know. As you know we have decent sized transmission coolers standard on our cars. These other blown up transmissions - what cars/transmissions did they have? Did they have a proper cooler installed?

Firm shifts are better for the box then flared shifts. Only downside is it adds a lot more heat to the box, hence you need a decent oil cooler. If the boxes were heating up that is probably the reason why the blew.

Firm shifts are better for the box then flared shifts. Β Only downside is it adds a lot more heat to the box, hence you need a decent oil cooler. Β If the boxes were heating up that is probably the reason why the blew.

Actually its the other way around. A flared shift means the clutch packs slip more and this is what generates a lot of the heat. Heat is also made as the trans fluid is forced through the torque converter (but this will be constant for a given amount of power, however more power equals more heat)

Sharp sort shifts will reduce the fluid temp, but since these are higher than std powerd motors a trans cooler is a good investment.

Just a quick question

is it better to have the Overdrive on/off when going down the drag strip or track?

Or it doesnt make a difference?

I dont exactly understand what the idea is with overdrive

I ran faster with it off.

If I leave it on it selects overdrive too early and reduced my ET, if the car were LOTS quicker I may select it when I redline in drive.

Just think of overdrive as another gear, the differenc beeing that 1st and second are reduced gears (crank spins faster than the tail shaft) which will provide extra torque, third is a one to one ratio (ie crank and tailshaft spin at the same speed, however in some autos it can be slightly overdriven), then overdrive spins the tailshaft faster than the crank butas a consequence you will have less torque going to the wheels)

hope this clears it up - not the best explanation but after a few woodstocks what can you expect.

Hey Ben I will be doing this fairly soon so you can watch mine not blow up if you like :(

Β 

No seriously though, they are very tough transmissions from what I know. Β As you know we have decent sized transmission coolers standard on our cars. Β These other blown up transmissions - what cars/transmissions did they have? Β Did they have a proper cooler installed?

hehe sorry about the late reply!!

They were commodores so I doubt they would have had a cooler for the box..

Are you going to run a better cooler or leave the std one there?

What do you mean by that? it shifts earlier?

When trying to get the fastest time I found that overdrive cuts in too early (ie at 5000 rpm instead of 7000 - made these figures up to show what I meant, and as I can'rt remember the shift point)

Overdrive isnt thwe best when trying to accelerate as it reduces the torque - great for fuel ecconomy, but crap for acceleration.

When trying to get the fastest time I found that overdrive cuts in too early (ie at 5000 rpm instead of 7000 - made these figures up to show what I meant, and as I can'rt remember the shift point)

Overdrive isnt thwe best when trying to accelerate as it reduces the torque - great for fuel ecconomy, but crap for acceleration.

So at certain gears it shifts before reaching the 7000 red line?

The redline on my R32 is at 7500RPM and i always drive with overdrive ON. I never had any problems with it shifting early as long as I put my foot to the floor. It revs out in every gear.

I did have a few problems earlier with shifting but I found out it was coz of the wire #53 being cut. Once reconnected i never experienced any problems again.

MOines in. Not a bad job, just watch out when you drop the valve body cause the springs drop out their galleries, 3 off them come out and only one gets put back in after you blank the middle 2 off with the 50mm welsh plugs. O and you'll need 5lt's TQ dextron III comes in 4lt so buy that and 1lt extra. If it wasn't for the springs dropping out and having to sort them out which goes where it was about an hour to an hour and a half job.

Makes a huge difference. Much easier and cheaper than a manual conversion and I'm well impressed with the results for under 400 bucks.

Pay the extra and get the service kit. I removed the sump without damaging the seal but you'll do yoursellf a favour changing the filter.

Bang for buck it's worth it.

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