Need good RB20 turbo knowledge!

[Darren W.]

Confused! Too many instant experts! Too little knowledge!

Does anyone know REALISTICLY what is the "SAFE" potential power output from the late model RB20 turbo with all the usual bolt on bits? Not seeking maximum stress point B4 breakage- just good state of tune with all the factory reliability + extra kilowats! Would like 230-250 RWKW. Have been told this can be done no worries but with 10 or so different bolt on combo's! What bits should I be looking for if possible at all? Also seeking confirmation on whether or not the R32 factory computer is programmable- and how much if so? Have heard of fitting R32 computers to R33 cars, could this be for adjustability? If so who knows where to get the software to read the programme so it can be adjusted and what the parameters are for adjustment? More than happy to pay for good results by those who know what to do!!!!

Many thanks for any feedback! :nowigetit :nowigetit :nowigetit

Confused in Adelaide S.A.!

Lost in Skyline territory!

Darren W.

P.S. please reply if you know for a fact only-not guessing or hearsay! I have the knowledge to guess myself! :goddam:

[funkymonkey]

Define safe for those who want to reply by filling out the following:

1. Average number of k's you want the engine to do in a year

2. Conditions of driving it will endure (eg: city driving, highway or fulltime race car)

3. Frequency and duration of use at full potential (eg: daily driver at a skidpan day or drag race) in a year

Someone will tell you they get 250rwkw out of their internally stock RB20DET car and they might only use it 3 times a year when you want to be driving your car everyday back n forth to work.

One thing I can tell you definitely is that the Stock R32 ECU IS fully programmable... there's 2 ways of doing it... one is to unsolder the stock EEPROM chip that holds the map data, buy a replacement EEPROM, flash it with the new maps and then solder it back into the ECU. The second way is to use what's called a daughterboard (eg: Grid R32 Daughterboard). Most of these daughterboards can be soldered into the ECU (sorta like chipping a PS2 or a Xbox) and then intercept the signals to the stock EEPROM, and respond with their own ones. The advantage of a daughterboard are that they are hot swappable, which means you don't need to unsolder and solder everytime you wanna reflash the maps. Also most daughterboards on the japanese market these days allow you to use a cheaper and more readily found EEPROM chip to hold the replacement data, rather than the stock item which can be hard to find or hard to find a flasher that works.

I have a grid daughterboard on mine, and it uses 2 standard EEPROM chips to hold the data between them of the stock one. The EEPROM chips are flashed and unflashed using an EEPROM programmer you can buy from Jaycar for about $30. The EEPROMs themselves cost about $5 in total. The software comes with the Grid daughterboard and as long as you know what you're doing you'll be fine, if you screw something up on the EEPROM, then either reflash em or chuck em out and get new ones.

Basically the way it works is there's a map that holds the input signal (parameters) and a formula with a multiple (which you adjust on the map in the EEPROM) which gives you the output signal (eg: spark on/off).

As for the R32 ECU woring in an R33, I dunno, its possible, if you can match the R32 ECU's inputs to the outputs of the sensors in the R33, which should be possible if you get the impedence, voltages, cycle rates and other influencing factors the same as the R32 sensors. Its a lot of work though, and it might be just easier to unplug the R33 ECU and slap in a Power FC.

If you're getting your stock ECU remapped, make sure you go to someone who knows Nissan ECU's and to someone who is knowledgeable about electronics, and more importantly digital data programming. I know "tuners" out there who charge an arm and a leg to tune people's ECU's when all they are doing is flashing an ECU with a image dump they took off some other guy's ECU which was running well in a car with similar mods, no dyno tune, no response testing, no wideband O2 sensor, just a 5 minute job. Make sure you stay with them when they "tune" your ECU and see what they do.

[Darren W.]

Very good response to my computer question. Is there any draw backs to this kind of modification? Does the computer handle all that an aftermarket 1 does or is it just a "band aid" fix to getting an aftermarket ECU? Will pay Jaycar a visit. As for intended use, the car is semi daily driver and cruiser. Would like to race around the streets(I mean cruise) and occasional 1/4 runs or track days at Mallala with other cars I know of that have similar power output. The car is an R32 GTS4 4Door with a manual. I know that plenty more can be had from the motor without opening it up for internal mods but with short life span. In standard form I still like to participate in the activities I mentioned, but I have all the joy of a standard off the showroom floor car that is 100% reliable! Ultimately I want the same reliability with whatever extra power I can have without compromising that or having the need to do internal mods. Maybe the reality is that 10-30kw extra is it without reliability compromise? Who knows I dont! just hoping someone does. I'm sure Nissan built these with only modest use of thier potential to ensure longevity and reliability. I accept that it cant ever be 100% the same reliability due to extra streeses and heat loadings- but there must be some acceptable level of modifiction that would be deemed "SAFE" and good for say 10000k's a year without needing to keep the car stanard to be able to drive that many k's and have some fun without the worry of engine failure.

Many thanks again.

Darren W.