Jump to content
SAU Community

  

160 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Your thoughts?

I lost my Skyline in an accident (not my fault!) pretty much a year ago. At the time, I was just about to get engaged so I decided to put the payout towards a house and just buy whatever I could with what I had left over. I ended up with a 1997 Fairmont.

Things have changed again and the time has come to let that car go - it's approaching 150k kms, services are costing me heaps and it does 15/16L per 100km when I drive it around (and I drive a lot). Now, I could quite easily pick up a nice R33 in Australia or go through the hassles of importing again and end up with a Skyline.

But...after considerable thought (and circumstances again), I'm going to get a NEW car and therefore the Skyline has to miss out again. Apart from being new, I had to meet the following criteria:

* Around the $30K mark

* Must be P-plateable (fiance)

* AAMI has to insure it

* 10L / 100km or less (ADR combined measurement, blah blah)

After a bit of research I came up with the following:

Honda Jazz, Nissan Pulsar, Subaru Impreza RS, Mazda3 SP23 - with the latter 2 being of greatest interest at the moment.

My thoughts on the Impreza (which I haven't driven yet):

Positive - Wagon model looks pretty good. Most of it taken from the WRX - seats, suspension etc. "Symmetrical AWD"

Negative - It's not a WRX.

And...the SP23 (which I have driven):

Positive - Sedan looks the goods inside and out. 2.3L engine (over the standard 2L).

Negative - Too quite for me, I'd like to hear the engine a bit more. FWD - not for me! Mazdas have always bored me in the past.

Obviously these are hardly performance cars so please take that into account, but what do you reckon?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63013-saying-no-to-a-skylineagain/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

SP23 is a nice car in standard trim.....

The pulsar lacks interia design.....

The jazz is too slow.....

The sub will be the most expensive to service, however it will have a very good re-sale value....

My vote is for the Mazda....

Go and test drive them all and ask the sales person to point out the costs in running and maintaining each car and servicing costs... Once you have driven them all... Weight up the costs in between the 2 you liked to drive the most....

Still i have driven most of the cars listed above at work... Id go the Mazda....

what about waiting for the Mazda 6 MPS, Turbocharged 4WD, it's not overly stupid either, it's supposed to be a refined yet sporty car, i guess like a bmw sortof notion.

but, from the testing i've seen, it LOVES to oversteer, i'd consider that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.
    • It seems this could be due to a restructure/team direction change... Or... You're working with a different category of vehicle... Or you've decided you'd rather be able to play with your own cars again...   I'm hoping the latter...
    • had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
×
×
  • Create New...