Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys thanks for your help with my gearbox. I changed the oil and its 100%better not as much heat, no noise and smooth changes ( :

One thing that might help is that i sythened the oil in by running a pipe into the gearbox and poured the oil in the other side instead of using a pump to pump the oil in. I found this very easy

Once again thanks heaps guys ( :

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i changed my geaarbox oil on the weekend because it was crunching going into 4th at full load. put castrol vmx80, nulon addative and found about a litre of lightwieght redline oil so put that in there too.

didn't see a change staight away, but after about 200k's of driving the problem went away. now i can change into 4th at redline.

is it safe to mix oils???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all.. I reckon this cold gearbox problem must be a skyline thing 'cause mine from 1st to 2nd on a cold morning is not very nice. As someone mentioned before, double clutching helps but after about 5-10mins driving around it's all sweet.

Not long ago I put Royal Purple max gear in both the gearbox and diff. It did improve my gearbox on the cold starts as it now takes less time to become smooth.. and when it is smooth it's much better than it used to be :(

Gizmo73 also used Royal Purple and he reckons it also improved his gearbox over the Redline Shockproof.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its bad to mix synthetic and mineral oils in your gearbox.

Ive been told that once you run synthetic, if you run mineral oil after, you will ruin the gear system. If you read up and do a search on it, you will understand. The synthetic oil beds into the gears, and then running mineral oil will eat away at the gears. Have a read of it, because im not 100% what it was exactly

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi guys my car produces alot of heat from under the gear stick. Do you think this is the gearbox or the exhast or sumthing? It gets quite hot after driving a while. Could it be that my trans oil is low? Any suggestions will help thank you

Mine gets hot but haven't noticed any mechanical problems well not so far anyway

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its bad to mix synthetic and mineral oils in your gearbox.

Ive been told that once you run synthetic, if you run mineral oil after, you will ruin the gear system. If you read up and do a search on it, you will understand. The synthetic oil beds into the gears, and then running mineral oil will eat away at the gears. Have a read of it, because im not 100% what it was exactly

why would you use mineral???

use the synthetic stuff

if you mix 50/50 mineral and syththetic in your gearbox might not be good idea.

However if you drain all the oil out of the gearbox and refill it with either sythetic or mineral you should have no issues with oil mixing together

BUT STICK WITH SYTHETIC BETTER PROPERTIES AND LONGER LASTING

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

Hey i dont know if i done it correct or not.......umm, i used the fill plug, which was on the passenger side of my car to drain the oil.....i then dropped the jack down, open the bonnet, took off the dip stick, and used a funnel to fill the trans fluid into my car (auto's have the dip stick).....is this correct???as i didnt see a drain + fill plug, only the fill plug on the bottom( i guess the fill/drain are the same in autos....as its there to just drain then?)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

I've tried to change the gearbox oil this weekend but could only loosen the drain plug, not the filler. Is there any other way to fill the gearbox without using the filler plug?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nope, definately didn't drop the oil (not that silly) just checked if I could loosen them both first, was only able to get the drain plug.

PT, yep, it's manual, but what's involved in pulling out the shifter? Just unscrew the 4 screws, lift the plate/cover then fill? (measuring the quantities of course)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm against filling through the shifter due to the extra difficulty in measuring the amount going in and the risk of getting that stinking crap in the interior. Get a breaker bar on to the filler plug, mine was tight as a... well it was very tight and a breaker bar was needed to get it off. I then used a $10 pump bottle from supercheap to get the oil in. I also did a write up of this process if you need further info.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nissan reckon vmx-80, i hated the shit it was too thin

im using the thickest shit available @ repco in my rb30 box, kinda shit to drive when cold, but i used the nulon manual box treatment aswell

i fill thru the shifter, just use a funnel and measure it before you tip it in

Edited by Rednisr31
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure what the 33 box is like but on the 32 box the reversing switch is the same height as the fill plug. I couldn't get my fill plug undone so I took the reversing switch out and used that hole to fill it instead :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ActionDan, beleive me, I've tried to get the bloody thing out but it just won't budge!!! Measuring the quantity of oil would be easy as would using a funnel to pour it into the shifter so it looks like it's the best bet for me at the moment

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...