Jump to content
SAU Community

Unleaded 102 Octane Street legal fuel


spx25t
 Share

Recommended Posts

I recently recieved a link from a website for ET racing Fuels www.etracingfuels.com they have released a range of unleaded race fuel that can legally be used on the Street best thing is that already in Sydney there is 1 service station that has it at a Pump and there is about 7 or 8 in the near future that will be stocking it as well flip side is that it will cost $3.85p/Litre.

Hopefully when they open it up at more service stations the price might drop a little but for a track day or something it would be good 20 Litres for just shy of $80.00.

There is no odour from the fuel when burnt so no give away odour like normal race fuel But as i mentioned it is STREET LEGAL so no need to worry about Police hassles

I will be trying about 10 Litres in the car on Saturday

The address for the Petrol Station is ET Petroleum 47 Lakemba St Belmore NSW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They tested it on a Commodore cup car it put out 199 HP and 355 pounds of torque and with ET102 it put out 215 horses and 400 punds or torque. Nothing was changed or modified with on the car between runs just different fuel. the way i was think even for $10 and maybe 2 litres it would work better than octane booster

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Abit expensive for a trackday considering that most people would go thru a solid 60L's in a day ($240 in fuel, ouch!).

As you say, might be good to mix $20/mth in with 98RON just to give everything a clean/burn out in the system.

Might also be a cheap fix for drag racers after a better TS :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Funny ! I was just having a discussion with my boss today about blending racing fuels and their costs at the moment. Said he used to blend fuel for the big petrolium concerns many years ago and still had the formulas. I said that they have to be non lead based and he said that wouldnt be a problem.Keep you guys posted

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2rismo The car they tested with is a Commodore Cup Car so once the engine is built it is then Tagged shut to prevent tampering to make the racing even.

But regardless whatever you obviousley know something we dont

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Changing octane level and other fuel properties alone does nothing for power output.

Timing on Commodore cup cars can be changed so my guess is, they advanced it to suiOtherwise the power gain is due to another factor they weren't prepared to divulge.

Adrian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depending on what engine management the commodore cup car is using, it could possibly adaptively increase and decrease ignition timing according to the knock sensor.

But power gains of 16hp and 55Nm won't be realised in back to back dyno runs... The car has to be driven HARD for a while to adapt to the new higher octane fuel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a few of us central coast boys in our skylines are going down on sunday to FILL, yes FILL our cars up with 120octane fuel, god it will be fun on the way home, r8un on low boost and see where she goes, if all good, then up comes 25ppound of boost.

rob ive got a water-air ic works well, but thinking of pumping liquid nitro through it, gotta keep those temps down.

see yall soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I know, Infiniti stopped importing vehicles before 2020, even though they were still selling their stock for at least a year or 2 after that, they were older build years, therefore, you can import a 2020 400R, because you couldn't buy an AuDM 2020 built Q50 RS. As for insurance, you might need to go through one of the enthusiast insurance companies, they tend to insure a lot more grey import models than the mainstream insurers as Duncan mentioned.
    • loved seeing the zenvo on the a1 just after the hatfield tunnel i was the guy in the white van trying to egg you on it sounded awesome and those exhausts glowing red inside insane cheers for the thumbs up tim and tom.
    • So.... when I'm finally getting around to having my power steering leak sorted, now it looks like I've got the same issue most A/T Skylines are having. My A/T light will randomly come on and I'm stuck in 3rd gear until I turn the car off and on again. Only 3 weeks ago I did a complete transmission service: Oil flush + new gasket + new filter. This came out of nowhere!! It wasn't like the car was driven hard. I drove about 3 mins down the road to get fuel and boom!!!  Anyway, I have a few questions and hope you fine people can help me out here. All questions are in red. 1. The solenoids: I was looking at the parts catalogue in Amayama and I could only find the Solenoids as an assembly. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/319404ax05 I read in another thread that Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 & Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 but the Amayama product has only the code of B. Is this the right part? Can anyone who has done the Solenoid changes or seen them confirm if this is the complete set of A & B?   2. Gasket and Filter: I'm not going to try change the solenoids myself because it seems difficult to do in a home garage with just 2 jack stands. I plan to take it to a shop and get it changed. I was also going to buy the transmission sump gasket at the same time so I don't reuse the same gasket. Should I just use the existing gasket as it has only been on the car since OCT 19th? (~3 weeks) Should I be buying a brand-new gasket and a filter? Does this job involve taking the filter out?   Thanks in advance to everyone. It's hard to find a video of someone doing a solenoid change on a R34 so any help you can give answering my remaining questions would make me less stressed.
    • Yea - From what I have seen from the video, the car idles like any R34 lol 50PSI of fuel pressure is hardly super abnormal, the regulator is working because the pressure remains static when the throttle gets revved, i.e pressure remains the same when manifold vaccuum changes. Bigger pumps on stock rails always bumped the pressure in the rail without using an aftermarket regulator to change that. Do you know what your IAC is actually doing? Has there been any data showing the stepper motor % etc? There's no way your idle is actually moving around the way the cluster(s) are indicating. You would hear the difference with the engine RPM flying to 3k and 1k in mere seconds. I'd be checking the wiring to the tacho. What the tacho is telling you and what the engine/ecu is telling you are different things. I assume your ECU doesn't display the spike. So whatever is telling the tacho to be at X rpm is doing something weird. When the going gets insane, you're on the wrong path. You've ruled out plenty of things that are working correctly/aren't the issue. Your idle isn't doing what the tacho is indicating. You have two seperate issues, I don't think they are linked, and the idle seems reasonably okay unless it's stalling which.. well, it hasn't. Troubleshoot the stall if it occurs by figuring out what your IAC is doing vs what it is being told to do.
    • So awesome! I love the RB with the exhaust on display.
×
×
  • Create New...