Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 184
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey adrian unfortunatly i wont be racing, my jap spec roll cage didint even come close to passing the engineers requirements, everything changes after 10s, need full race suit, kevlar cover for bell housing or what they call shatter sheild, 5 point harness, so im out for another month or so

hey adrian unfortunatly i wont be racing, my jap spec roll cage didint even come close to passing the engineers requirements,  everything changes after 10s, need full race suit, kevlar cover for bell housing or what they call shatter sheild, 5 point harness, so im out for another month or so

What happened to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...4058#post954058 hahaha you were told it wouldn't pass months ago :D

im buying a straight bolt in one, anyways if they dont accept it, ill just change the plates over and drag like my first time

I don't think Jap cages are built to one particular standard anyway.

As for tech inspection, I am sure that I was told by another drag racer that a half cage is passable, but can't recall under what circumstances. Anyone?

As for tech inspection, I am sure that I was told by another drag racer that a half cage is passable, but can't recall under what circumstances. Anyone?

Half cages are not acceptable. The rules are clearly laid out in the ANDRA rulebook. you need a minimum six point welded cage.

Half cages are not acceptable. The rules are clearly laid out in the ANDRA rulebook. you need a minimum six point welded cage.

I spoke to some people in the know last night and was told that for a car that runs 10.00-10.99 a half cage is fine. Any quicker and a 6 point cage is required. I was also told that (techncally) it didn't have to be welded in, but that ANDRA won't pass it if it isn't.

I spoke to some people in the know last night and was told that for a car that runs 10.00-10.99 a half cage is fine. Any quicker and a 6 point cage is required. I was also told that (techncally) it didn't have to be welded in, but that ANDRA won't pass it if it isn't.

Yes, you're right. As long as the trap speed stays under 140 MPH and the ET is slower than 9.999 you can fit a half cage with an intrusion bar. I don't think you'd bother though because it's easier to get the full cage done and be done with any more hassles no matter what ET or trap speed you run (as far as roll cages go).

4.4.7 Roll bar/cages

Street registered cars with a fixed steel roof and unmodified monocoque construction running between 10.00 and 10.99 (1/4 mile) and/or less than 140 mile per hour (225 kph).

Single rollover hoop covering the full width ofthe drivers compartment with two bolted backstays and a bolted side intrusion bar constructed to ANDRA requirements as a minimum.

All other sedans, sedan based or open vehicles 10.99 and quicker.

Full roll cage mounted at a minimum of 6 points.

Hey all the classes are DYO - where is the fun in that? Was about to fax the entry form until I saw that.

So not only do they have a specific DYO class based on E.T., but now all of last years heads up classes are reduced to a pathetic, boring, grandma class. The only heads up category is the Pro RWD? Street racing is not drag racing, but someone hitting the brakes before passing the timers is not drag racing either.

Ahh found the small print

PRO RWD will race heads up with quickest 8 vehicles competing under the 3 Round Formate System. Sport FWD, Sport RWD/AWD, All Motor, Front Runner, Sport Mod & Oz Mod will race on a Dial Your Own Handicap system with the quickest 16 vehicles competing in Elimination Style racing. Non-qualifiers with these classes will automatically drop into the ET3 Bracket for non-qualifies and continue racing elimination style.

Quickest 16 across all the classes? Or per class?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Updating results following our SR20det project. Data collected form improves future turbocharger making and high flowing services. So far differences between G and GT series turbine wheels, we are in the process of making a new turbine, the aim is for better mid top range flow without gain too much lag.  Result is back to back comparison of G25-660 and GTX2867 spec turbochargers on the same car, nothing changed apart from turbocharger. Both tuned to knock limit from pump 98 fuel (US Ron93). GTX2867 was about 400RPM more responsive making 255rwkws while G25-660 made 17 extra Kws with wider spread of torque after 4500RPM finishing off at 272rwkws.  
    • @GTSBoy i tried to jumper the wires and got the steering wheel light to come on which is right under the gear indication but that still doesnt come on.  Can it be an issue with my cluster?
    • Given that you have seen the dash indicator work briefly, then it would seem like you have a simple wiring problem. What happens when you simply jumper the wires on the "steering wheel switch"?
    • Yesterday's day in review: All the wiring to the lights up the front how I want it, is ran, terminated, and all to length. The only lighting up front I haven't finished is the side indicators, as I need to get to the partly cutup factory loom, and find the plugs for them. Interesting note, the side indicators use the exact same plug that's in the doors for something else that I don't remember what it is... So that plug better be careful...   Power steering solenoid, on the R33 is variable, and from memory PWM. The Ford's control from the docs I have so far, is it's just a on or off control. So I'm not sure it's what I want, and in any case, power steering running, but at its heaviest (solenoid off) is likely what I'll want anyway, so I'm not yet touching it at all. All the wiring I can complete so far, is done. There are 3 wires I need to make a plug for at the ECU, and these are just for the vehicle speed sensor, of which I need to get a T5 from an AU, so I can use its output that has the speed sensor on it. (My car doesn't have ABS, otherwise I'd set it up to use one of the ring gears on that). I need to buy new headlight globes and front parker globes, otherwise I could show photos of lights working. Current fuel lines in and out on this motor are "5/16". I'll order hardline, and some AN fittings for that, and I just need to 100% check fuel line size at the tank end, to get the ends for it. I'm also looking at a few options for the banjo bolts to AN fittings for the power steering rack. I'll pull the reservoir off the Barras PS pump. There's an off the shelf fitting for that pump for a -10 AN feed, and it'll use a 16mm to dash -6 an outlet to feed the rack. I'll be making my own power steering reservoir, I'm going through the thought process at the moment of how I'll run the baffles, and I need to research another idea for it too.
    • Two inlet runners changes the engines characteristics requiring less fuel to make torque at different points in the rev range. The smaller diameter inlet runners on the DET increases air flow speed, which improves atomisation of fuel, particularly in low load/idle for better burn, and in specific areas of the engine, (areas you would use when driving normally) increases the efficiency. All of those items change how efficient the engine is at different speeds. The changes on the neo help slightly to improve emissions where it matters. The overall improvements won't be the likes of going from an engine built in the 70s to an engine built in the 2000s, it's just a small step. But still leaves it the RB with the best chance of improvement.   As for your comment about the whole using a cat to not need to worry about those gases. Two things, no system is 100% perfect. It won't eliminate everything. So reduce the quantity you put into it, you still reduce the output. Two, make that system do less work, and it's likely to survive a little bit longer. Funnily enough to, one trick employed to get cats up to temp, AND to drastically reduce emissions before they get up to temp, is to reduce ignition timing.
×
×
  • Create New...