Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

*Mod's don’t move - Looking for EOI from Queensland only Feel free to move after one week, if need be.*

I have found another car that has caught my eye; I’m looking to sell my R32 Gts four door pretty quick. In saying that I'm not letting it go for a loss of money.

I bought this around 2 - 3 months ago, and finally got it complied the other week. Has a RWC, but no rego. If you want 6 months rego price will change. It was bought as a project car - So it’s a pretty base model car.

I imported this car, via a broker in Melbourne.

1989 - 15 year old import.

Rb20DE.

AUTO.

Nana spec tweed trim.

Missing Jap spec head unit.

Front and rear strut brace's.

Genuine 57,000kays with log books an such.

Has a dent on front left hand side guard, not a big deal. And it was keyed on the left hand rear door at the docks.

Sick hubcaps - gets the chicks bro.

Complied last week at ADD in Kedron - with RWC. I only have these pics. I can take more if some one is interested.

I’ve driven it from Brisbane to Noosa, then back to Brisbane and back to Noosa again, it feels awesome on the road, no queer sounds or bumps, motor is very tight, auto shifts are smooth, and no slipping from the torque converter.

I went to play on some *enter private mountain roads* and was surprised at how well it pulled for a non-turbo auto :confused: With some force an effort it can be made to step out as well :)

I want back what it owe's :D

Car $5500 - Landed.

Compliance $1430

Transport from Melbourne $660

RWC + misc towing fee's $125

Strut bars $120

Total = $7835 + rego.

I want back the $7835

May be more then other N/a Auto’s, but I wanted a genuine clean car with zero future problems. I don’t care if your uncle habib can import one cheaper – So no lame comment’s. I have receipts for everything.

2.jpg

1.jpg

5.jpg

6.jpg

4.jpg

3.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63323-qld-only-r32-gts/
Share on other sites

You can smell the raw p0wah in this one.

frontstrut2.jpg

My first mod were strut bars, why?

frontstrut.jpg

Even a rear one.

bootstrut.jpg

So tough.

frontside.jpg

That air box add's 60hp.

frontmotor.jpg

I stole the wheel off an 80's bus.

dash.jpg

Part of my 5 stud conversion uleh.

5studhubs.jpg

Still looking to sell people. Don't be shy of such full sik car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63323-qld-only-r32-gts/#findComment-1196190
Share on other sites

can i have the rear strut brace? :D  

Hey are u selling those stud converters?

Could be useful for the Passage..

Strut bars x2, $123 posted brand new off ebay. There are still a few left I think.

I might be interested in selling the hubs.. I only have 3 though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63323-qld-only-r32-gts/#findComment-1197351
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...