Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is this a good flywheel to get?

"Exedy - Single Sports - Light Flywheel

Low mass is a good thing when it comes to high-performance flywheels, which is why the lightweight aluminum Exedy flywheel can help your sporty street ride or weekend racer develop more drive-wheel power. A flywheel is basically an energy storage device. When the factory designs your flywheel, they take smoothness and other drivability factors into account and end up creating a heavier-than-necessary flywheel.

An Exedy flywheel still gives you great drivability, but the Exedy flywheel is made of lighter materials that take less engine power to accelerate. Your engine doesn't make more power and torque, but more power and torque gets to the wheels because your Exedy flywheel isn't soaking up as much of it as your stock flywheel did. Make sense?

Each Exedy flywheel is custom-machined from proprietary alloy metals and specially tuned to the vehicle upon which it is intended to be mounted. That way, your Exedy flywheel always gives you smooth shifting, scintillating acceleration, and steady idling characteristics that you'll love if you're a performance-minded driver. More importantly, you get back a handful of horsepower with an Exedy flywheel, which is what your goal should be with every modification you make"

Nengun

Can anyone answer my above question? or any other light flywheel you would recommend?

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What are you going to use your car for predominantly?

A lightened flywheel will improve throttle response/willingness of the engine to rev and engine braking- good for performance driving.

But on the flip-side, it will make it less pleasant in traffic- you'll need to change gear quicker as mentioned, plus the car will be jerkier when you get on and off the throttle at low revs as well as accentuating driveline snatch...exactly what you don't want in a traffic jam.

Just like most things in life, you need to choose the amount of compromise ur willing to accept.

What are you going to use your car for predominantly?

A lightened flywheel will improve throttle response/willingness of the engine to rev and engine braking- good for performance driving.

But on the flip-side, it will make it less pleasant in traffic- you'll need to change gear quicker as mentioned, plus the car will be jerkier when you get on and off the throttle at low revs as well as accentuating driveline snatch...exactly what you don't want in a traffic jam.

Just like most things in life, you need to choose the amount of compromise ur willing to accept.

yeah im willing to accept that compromise. its all part of the skyline experience isnt it? if im afraid of the unpleasantness in a traffic jam i would be driving an automatic wouldnt I?

now just need someone to advice me on which lightflywheel to get :O

Just clarifying something, lightweight flywheels actually improve deceleration contrary to what someone mentioned earlier. Because of its weight, it has less inertia compared to a heavier one which will continue spinning for longer.

to summarise the thread.

An aftermarket flywheel is;

* Better for accelleration -------- in every gear.

* Better for the drags ------- If you can't change gears properly a heavy stock flywheel is more forgiving but, don't worry you will run slower times thanks to your heavy flywheel and the fact you can't change gears properly.

* Better for decelleration

* Better for the circuit/track use

* Puts less stress on the gearbox and makes matching rpm for shifts easier than factory.

A well designed aftermarket flywheel and clutch setup (they go together) for the road will not;

* Effect your fuel ecconomy

* Cause drivetrain vibrations or noise

* Change hill starting difficulty

Some more of my 2c;

Select a pressure plate with sufficient clamping force not one that is stupidly sprung.For example a 230rwkw gtst will get away with a factory level of pressure/clamping when matched to a good friction plate with metal/ceramic composition. The heat capabillity of the material is just like brake pads and plays out in use pretty much the same way.

Chrome molly flywheels have advantages in strength, wear and heat loads over factory units when using more aggessive friction plate materials, weight aside that is a good enough reason to look at them.

Can anyone answer my above question? or any other light flywheel you would recommend?

like i said, ive got the exedy flywheel with exedy cushion button and am very happy with it. i looked at other flywheels like you are now and chose the exedy one cause it was around the 6kg mark as i didnt want to go too light for daily driving and because i could get it localy and not have to wait for it from japan like the cusco one i was looking at. UAS offers chromoly flywheels at the light (6kg?) and super light (4.5kg?). thats another option for ya.

like i said, ive got the exedy flywheel with exedy cushion button and am very happy with it. i looked at other flywheels like you are now and chose the exedy one cause it was around the 6kg mark as i didnt want to go too light for daily driving and because i could get it localy and not have to wait for it from japan like the cusco one i was looking at. UAS offers chromoly flywheels at the light (6kg?) and super light (4.5kg?). thats another option for ya.

I found an exedy flywheel on Nengun http://www.nengun.com/exedy/single-sports-light-flywheel. Is this the one you are talking about?

It doesnt state the exact weight. Not sure if its chromoly either only says "lightweight aluminium" or "proprietary metal alloy" what does that mean?

Edited by BaysideBlue

yeah...info differs from nengun site and the exedy aus site and i was confused too about wether it was alu or chromoly and weight but from the research and info that i recieved theres only the one model and its forged chromoly and weighs just over 6kg. sulivan_a had a group buy on these and says the same i think. i got the flywheel for about $500 trade here through the mech, should probs ask your mech how much he can get it for.

yeah...info differs from nengun site and the exedy aus site and i was confused too about wether it was alu or chromoly and weight but from the research and info that i recieved theres only the one model and its forged chromoly and weighs just over 6kg. sulivan_a had a group buy on these and says the same i think. i got the flywheel for about $500 trade here through the mech, should probs ask your mech how much he can get it for.

yeah thats about right, a little under $500 delivered is Nengun's price.

I guess the "proprietary metal alloy" is refering to forged chromoly then. in that case it should be heaps stronger than the factory one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...