Jump to content
SAU Community

after 3 years of owning my car...

doxximus

By doxximus,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

doxximus Grand Master

doxximus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i finally got full com insurance with justcars.

past 3 years i've been on third party fire and theft, but now, i've gone full comp at a rating 3 and listed all my mods and aftermarket bits like wheels and whatnot

end up paying $1959 a year to the value of $18000, what is everyone else paying? just so i know

would you believe i was paying $500 for the value of $5000 max lol

inark Grand Master

inark

Posted
Posted

thats not too bad man... i was a dumb ass and didnt have ANY insurance on my R32 for over a year and then finally got full comp at 22 when i was a rating 2 and that cost me like 2k as well... depends a lot on where u live and ur past driving record too... i only had one ticket to my name.

THE CHIEF Proficient

THE CHIEF

Posted
Posted

Just cars are gay man.. Ive been with them for the past 3 years paying around $600ish for 3rd party F&T and they only gave me market value of 5k.

I got a mate who has a mate in Vigil Insurance and now he is giving me Full Comp with all the mods in the world for $1300 a year.

I also get free roadside care, choice of repairer and agreed value of 11k!!

Remember, I have a 31 so thats damn good.. you guys with 32's 33s etc.. would get more

Jetdat Veteran

Jetdat

Posted
Posted

i been paying $625, comprehensive, for agreed value of $28,000 for the last 3 years with QBE, but now that i am staring to modify the biatch i am going to unique cars for all you can modify for $1000. i am rating 1.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Well this was 2003 in VIC

Rating 1 .. no accidents ever.. 27.. Agreed value of $23k, all mods notified to insurance.

$1300 .. thats as low as it gets folks :) unless you're maybe over 30, and i did shop around at the time.

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted
Well this was 2003 in VIC

Rating 1 .. no accidents ever.. 27.. Agreed value of $23k, all mods notified to insurance.  

$1300 .. thats as low as it gets folks :D  unless you're maybe over 30, and i did shop around at the time.

Low as it goes hey? I'm 22, rating 2, insured my r32 gtst with wheels, exhaust and suspension mods with just cars for an agreed price of $16200 for......

$1200 this year. last year i was rating 3 and it cost me $1700. I'm pretty happy.

Rhett

Jetdat Veteran

Jetdat

Posted
Posted
Well this was 2003 in VIC

Rating 1 .. no accidents ever.. 27.. Agreed value of $23k, all mods notified to insurance.

$1300 .. thats as low as it gets folks :D unless you're maybe over 30, and i did shop around at the time.

i was 27 when i got the current skyline, started off with $800, next year went down to $650, this year gone was $625.

i been rating 1 for years and have a very clean driving record.

my car was pretty stock though except cat back and filter.

aybee Experienced

aybee

Posted
Posted

just cars was willing to insure me on rating 1 (21yr old) because i said that aami was going to take my shitter on rating 1. they checked up and said if you insure the other car through aami then we will give you rating 1. and that was after one year of insurance in my own name (third party). i thought it was a pretty good scam to get cheap insurance.

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

turned 21 a few months ago, and i was getting quote $2467 for a R34 GT-T - valued at like $28K i think?? not sure if i got to agreed value bit... but i told them the mods, and it didn't seem to change the premium..

$40K adz????? wtf?????

EDIT: that's rating 4, even tho i'm rating 3 with AAMI, Just Cars wouldn't recognise that i started on rating 5 with AAMI. :( - Might have to try this Vigil mob tho... I thought Just Cars was the cheapest these days for low 20's.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted
i was 27 when i got the current skyline, started off with $800, next year went down to $650, this year gone was $625.

i been rating 1 for years and have a very clean driving record.

my car was pretty stock though except cat back and filter.

yeah, my figure was for all mods (a few on that car), and agreed value of the $23k.. depends i guess. Usually with the agreed value they push it up :D otherwise they just give u market in the incident of a crash (which can be bad if you have a few mods too, like rims, etc)

Let Me Drive Mentor

Let Me Drive

Posted
Posted

hay guys just wondering what you reckon cos iv sold my gts and been with just cars for 2 years and paying 1100 full comp on it and now im getting a gtst with a few mods what do you recon the comp would be and who to go with

LANFOH Experienced

LANFOH

Posted
Posted
hay guys just wondering what you reckon cos iv sold my gts and been with just cars for 2 years and paying 1100 full comp on it and now im getting a gtst with a few mods what do you recon the comp would be and who to go with

If you read the above thread you should get a good idea of what prices youll have to pay however it all comes down to what your driving record is like, your age, your area, the value of the car amongst other things. Going from a non turbo to a turbo will be more expensive, that I can be sure of. :headspin:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB20 in need of modest love injection

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • QB6SAGR
      RB20 in need of modest love injection

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • Duncan
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By Duncan · Posted

      FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • sunsetR33
      R33 GTR lift points for hoist

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...