Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, same as above: gauge reads in 100mmHg increments up to 700. Given 760mmHg is about 1 bar (or 14.7 psi), half scale deflection (300-400mmHg) is about 7 psi which is wgat it should be.

Stolen from another post but you should be able to do the sums to get it to 10 to 12 psi.

edit. What the phuck is happening with the time here. these boards are haunted i tells ya. pirate ghosts. or ghost pirates. its actualy 12 22 pm the 4th of feb right now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63514-re-boost-control/
Share on other sites

Apologies for the ridiculous 'newbie' type question, but I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to most things mechanical (although i'm learning...slowly).

To cut a long story short, I did a bit of research and recently purchased and installed a larger FMIC on my car. Following on from that, I'd now like to run a little more boost to get some additional performance from the car and from what I've read on the forums, it seems like 10-12psi is relatively safe on the standard turbo. I do have a bleed valve installed on the car, although I believe it's currently only running standard boost due to the fact that the std boost gauge (which I know is a different unit of measure to psi) only goes up to around half way (i.e 3.5) when I use full throttle, which i've been told is pretty much indicative standard boost (i.e 6-7psi).

So this leads me to my few questions (and yes, I've done a search but couldn't find exact answers to my particular questions...probably because they're a little too basic for most people on here lol)...

Firstly, is adjusting the boost level as simple as just adjusting the bleed valve itself (which I believe it is)?

Secondly, is there any way in which I can tell what level of boost I've set the bleed valve to while I'm actually adjusting it? Or is it really just a matter of adjusting it, then taking the car for a drive to determine how much the boost has been adjusted (i.e trial and error).

Thirdly, how can I work out what level of boost i'm running (in psi) off the standard gauge? Or should I really invest in a new aftermarket boost gauge before adjusting the boost?

And lastly, should I really get someone else who knows what they're doing to do this for me instead? I'm keen to try and learn how to do these things myself (becuase it gives me a better idea of how everything works), although I really want to make sure that it's done properly and that I don't do any damage to the car.

Appreciate the help...

Cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63514-re-boost-control/#findComment-1194429
Share on other sites

The stock boost gauge should show if you have an effective boost increase, but as already mentioned with the small range of movement of the needle your ability to quickly and accurately read it at the engine/road speed required to make max boost is the limiting factor. I've only got stock boost & gauge and to be honest I hardly ever look at the gauge cause it's too small. Drove a Supra with an aftermarket one, much easier to read being larger and in a better position.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63514-re-boost-control/#findComment-1194772
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well some mostly good news and some slight bad news.  Good news is cylinder 6 did in fact only require a honing and I'm good to run my 86.5mm pistons again. I should also get the block back by end of week. Bad news, had a few surprises pop up. First, main and rod bearings were trashed. No sign of any heat damage. I knew right away what caused this... I had not packed my oil pump originally and spent a lot more time than I would have liked cranking the motor to get oil pressure. It sounded fine once started so I chucked it up to luck and forgot about it. Luckily rod and crank are fine and just need new bearings. Engine builder agreed that this was the cause.    Another surprise that carbon covered up very well that I didn't catch, something got sucked up and went through cylinder 1, 2 and 3. Luckily this was no cause for concern, just needed a bit of cleaning up. Valves look fine but he will vacuum test the head this week to confirm. I'm presuming this was something left over from welding my intercooler piping, but we'll never know. I'm going to thoroughly reclean everything.    So all in all, happy the motor is fine, and I'll get it back much sooner than expected. I'll also be taking the time to convert my WMI system over to direct port. I'll snap some pictures of that when the parts come in. 
    • I understand, thanks. Yeah I wouldn't want the car to tip over, I'll try and use the sills, I don't want to risk smashing the chassis rails. I ordered some rubber pucks that have a hopefully big enough slotting. If the front right gives me trouble I can always just make a wood block. I'll measure and inspect the sills closer once I actually take the car up. I hope so, but the rubber blocks I had in hand so far were pretty damn firm, if they are that hard they won't give much way. I'll let you know what happens. Angle grinding rubber isn't one of my favorite tasks. I'll probably start a build thread soon, for my own documentation and "log" as well as sharing what's going on with the car.
    • Kinda something I have been thinking about.  To be honest, we bought it already driving like that.  So there's no telling how long it actually has been driving like this.  Hopefully damage is too bad when we drop the pan.   I am having a hard time finding a site that sells the solenoid for the 5 speed auto, do you have any suggestions?
    • That'll be most likely down the road...  LOL  
    • a stock / option or aftermarket?
×
×
  • Create New...