Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well i got my GTR fuel pump yesterday after everyone said its a direct swap only to find its bigger in every way and is not a direct fit. Took me a while but after some modifying i now have a GTR pump in my 32 GTS-T. Now did i do something wrong or is some modifying required to put it in?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63615-gtr-pump-direct-fit-ye-right/
Share on other sites

Depends on the pump. i fitted a BNR32 pump to an ECR33 & there was some minor d!cking around involved, using hose clamps/nitrile rubber sheet & swapping the pickups between the two.

Had I fitted a BCNR33 pump would have been a straight swap. :D

Well i got my GTR fuel pump yesterday after everyone said its a direct swap only to find its bigger in every way and is not a direct fit. Took me a while but after some modifying i now have a GTR pump in my 32 GTS-T. Now did i do something wrong or is some modifying required to put it in?

i put a r33 gtr pump in my r32, it wasnt as easy as i thought....i used the rubber that goes at the bottom of the put and put it between the pump and the bracket and then zip tied it in 4 spots and it almost sounds like the stock one still(doesnt vibrate).

I had to cut the metal hose down abit so i could move the pump upwards.

I then used a spare new EA ford falcon filter sock i had lying around she was good as gold.....

i had to adjust it abit because the first time i put it in, it was touching the bottom of the tank.

So maybe i'm just bodgy! :D

i put a r33 gtr pump in my r32, it wasnt as easy as i thought....i used the rubber that goes at the bottom of the put and put it between the pump and the bracket and then zip tied it in 4 spots and it almost sounds like the stock one still(doesnt vibrate).  

I had to cut the metal hose down abit so i could move the pump upwards.

I then used a spare new EA ford falcon filter sock i had lying around she was good as gold.....

i had to adjust it abit because the first time i put it in, it was touching the bottom of the tank.

So maybe i'm just bodgy!  :D

thats almost exactly what i did but i didn't replace to sock and used hose clamps instead of zip ties, only makes a little more noise than standard!

I got some form of GTR pump in my gtst (r33) and it vibrates a lot. although when I cruise past people may think I'm running a serious drag racing fuel setup or something in the boot ;)

I think it came from a r32, but I didnt fit it :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Clutch done also about a year ago got a DCS HD Single Plate. Basically done everything but touch the engine 🤣 But will definitely get a fuel pump and ECU, then start saving 🫡
    • Fuel pump and clutch and ecu that’ll get you to about 230 or so kw, after that the sky’s the limit and the budget blows out faster then you can blink 
    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
×
×
  • Create New...