Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi, i was working on an sr20 today and noticed that there was a leak coming from the bolt that feeds oil to the turbo so i un-done the bolt and noticed it was all threaded and wasnt in straight. My problem is, that the bolt itself isnt threaded but the threads on the block is gOoooOone!..

Wat can i do??...

can u simply somehow re-thread it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63730-threaded/
Share on other sites

Don't go to bunnings, If this is the oil line into the turbo it's prob a BSP thread. Is the bolt hollow with a hole in the side near the head?. If the thread in the body of the turbo has gone you can drill it out and rethread it to the next size up and replace the bolt or you can get a thread insert same size as the bolt and fit that. This would need the insert kit which comprises special size tap, correct size drillbit and thread inserts themselves. Talk to someone who knows what he is doing as this is a tricky one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63730-threaded/#findComment-1197596
Share on other sites

Well same situation applies. To repair the thread you will have to remove the turbo and exhaust manifold but you can do it with the engine still in the car, installing a new thread insert is the best way. You could give UAS a call

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63730-threaded/#findComment-1198829
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...