WRX Club - Rnd 2 - Phillip Island - March 12

[Roy]

Dont thurry it, otherwise my car wont be ready:( I need about 2 weeks to get things sorted, provided i get the housing sometime this week.

I apparantly did a 1:58 last time there which is rather comical since i was lucky to have 200rwkws, had a miss so running intermittently on 5 cylinders, and wasnt even really stringing corners together, just trying different gears brakign points etc etc. So i would think id easily be able to improve 3 seconds on that effort. So from there though its probably hard work.

I seriously need to get a day under my belt now where not only does somehting not blow up, but the car actually runs properly. Im about 2 tbad track days from calling it quits and sellign the car and using my money for more worthy things for a a few years...then have another crack in a few years when financially i can afford it:(

[Rowdyr32]

We'll see how your bonnet goes troy. I'm chopping up one at home this weekend in an attempt to keep temps down. Hope it works. I'm to tight ass to buy a oil cooler for a car I might sell. Should be a good weekend. What pads are you guys running because I haven't bought any for mine yet. Don't really care about drivabililty on the street. Can't be to expensive though.

[Roy]

Im running Comp 9s. They are actually cheaper then RB74s despite being more of a track orientated / high performance pad. Im happy with them. They do squeal a bit though, but meh i dont care.

Yeh im going to cut and bend mine up, then attack it with some black primer. Picked up some sticker at rhe Motorsport show to tuffen up the primered/hacked bonnet. STACK, DBA, AiM etc etc:thumsbup

[heartbrkr]

wOOp.

Been waiting for this event. Only just noticed this thread. Need to get off my ass and send in the form.

Missed Winton in Jan (Dec was too hectic, altho Jan was a lot smaller turnout) and was too poor for Calder.

hb/

[Snowman]

BTW - for those that are attending - please can you use the club calender attendance function located at the link below. Its help me get things like the club championship prepared and lets others know how many others are coming.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ca...3&day=2005-3-12

[Snowman]

BTW - I have a mate and his Mrs coming down to stay for the weekend as well. (Some of you know Jarrod already and know how entertaining he can be! LOL)

So between Chris and Roy we really need to work out how many beds there are available and start allocating them - then working out what we need to do for the others (if there is enough people even trying to source another house!? Or are people happy to camp in back yards / sleep on lounge room floors?)

[Snowman]

Also (especially for Gareth) - Greg (blindelk) at the recent motorsports expo has arranged for a group discount for the purchase on Ferodo brake pads. I use the DS3000's but for a good street / track pad I believe the DS2500 are fantastic as well. The prices between the 2 are pretty similar - Greg will have to confirm but I believe its about $220 for a set.

I highly recommend these pads.

[Roy]

$220, WAY TO GO GREG:thumbsup:

I think Troy will have to keep his distance from Jarrod. Roys leash gets a bit long when he is around:alcoholic

[ferni]

How do those pads compare to RB74's?

[Roy]

I have never tried the DS2500s, but Race Brakes say that they are a good street/track pad. Your car being more powerfuil and heavy may mean you get more out of them...but his thinking was for a car the weight of mine with about 220rwkws and the 324mm rotors then the RB74 would be ok, but the Comp 9 better. And he commented that the DS2500 wouldnt do anything the Comp 9 owuldnt do.

Bu tliek i said, you wight 200-250kgs more and have 40rwkws more so perhaps the DS2500s would be the go?!?!?!?!

What pad does Chris use? Thing is he has less power, different rotors and uses sticky tyres...this may affect the pad you need.

Easy question is have you had brake fade with the RB74s? If not the only thing your really going to get from another pad is a different feel, a bit more initial bite etc etc. So with the same tyres as you used previously i dont think your stopping distances will change dramatically, but you may like the feel of the pedal with the DS2500s mores.

If you did have fade then perhaps look at something like the Comp 9, DS2500

LOL...have i dont a good job of confusing a simple question:)

Just some thinking that i put into pas selection...all pulled from my ass and texts as i havent driven 35 different cars at the track with different pad / brake combos etc etc.

[Snowman]

Ferni / anyone else that cares.

I found this thread on the MRT forums extremely helpfull - even though its more of a Rex forum than anything. But all reports have come from users and many people have tried different pads. It was from this thread that I chose my pad combination (Ferodo DS3000 fronts and RB Comp 9 rears).

http://www.mrtrally.com.au/forums/topic.as...asp?TOPIC_ID=36

Its a long thread but a good read IMO.

[Snowman]

On the last page Steve who works at DBA rates his best 10 street / track pads. The Ferrodo's (DS2500) come out on top in his opinion.

One thing he does mention is the squeal they can have if not driven hard occasionally. I can tell you from my experiences if I have been to the track in a few months they do get noisey - but after a track session they are totally quite for a number of drives. Its easy enough to do even if you can't get to a track. Find somewhere quiet (prob at night) and do 10 or so hard 150 - 40km/hr stops in succession and they'll be all good for a while.

[ferni]

Thanks, I currently have bendix ultimates on (was on the car when i got it) and i still can't belive they are still going, never had the brakes fade on me which im suprised at, but it probably means im not braking hard enough at the track (in fact i know im not, thats one area i really need to work on, braking hard/late consistently). Its also probably the fact im on street rubber like Roy said, so goes easier on the brakes than semi slicks would.

But i figure they can't last much longer, and was going to chuck a set of RB74's on when they run out, maybe i'll try the DS2500's instead. I dont have any complaints about my current bendix ulitmates, people tell me they aren't that good (compared to RB74's etc..) but they are the first set of pads ive had on my GTR so who knows... they squeel a tiny bit under light braking, otherwise ok.

[Scotsman]

I use RB74 front and comp9 rears. DBA5000 front rotors and Motul5.1 blead after each event, all this with the help of the braided lines and sicky tyres means that I can pull up pretty good all day long. I found that the RB74's can still be cooked at Sandown thou and are only good in the first 50% of the pad. After consistent hard braking the pad surface starts to crumble and the sides can break off. So I guess this means I need a higher temp pad. But at least my rotors should last for a while. Going to a more race orientated pad will mean that I will have to replace my rotors more often.

[Roy]

The road rubber v semis and brakes thing swings both ways.

With semis you have far more grip meaning you can brake harder and stop quicker. This extra level of grip means more heat output for say a 2 second period of braking. So as an example sh1t loads of heat for say 8 seconds.

Thing is because of the extra grip you are washing off speed quicker and braking for less time. Also your corner speeds are higher so means you don’t need to brake/slow down as much.

So to compare with road rubber. You cant brake as hard as you will lock up brakes or ABS will cut in. So this means the heat output for the same 2 second period will be less, but you may be braking for 11 seconds, or 3 seconds longer. Combined with the fact that you cant corner as fast so you need to wash off the extra 20km/h means the brakes could very well have to dissipate more heat.

So in essence semis mean high brake temps for shorter periods, whereas street tyres means lower heat output for longer periods. Reality is the longer braking period with street rubber can actually cause the temps to be higher then the shorter braking period with semis.

LOl..this is all theory, but its the sort of things a good brake place considers when trying to get the best pad for your application.

When it all washes out I suspect that if your braking to the capacity of your setup then street tyres will be easier on brakes then with using semis

The fact that you have found Bendix to be ok, id say spend the $150 on RB74s, or $120 on Comp 9s.

[INASNT]

I use RB74 front and comp9 rears. DBA5000 front rotors and Motul5.1 blead after each event, all this with the help of the braided lines and sicky tyres means that I can pull up pretty good all day long.  I found that the RB74's can still be cooked at Sandown thou and are only good in the first 50% of the pad.  After consistent hard braking the pad surface starts to crumble and the sides can break off.  So I guess this means I need a higher temp pad.  But at least my rotors should last for a while.  Going to a more race orientated pad will mean that I will have to replace my rotors more often.

I felt my rb74 fronts also starting to get cooked last time at sandown, especially trying to brake late into turn 1 at the 100 foot mark lap after lap like geoff showed me.

[Snowman]

Denham - you brake at the WHERE?????????????

Fark! Let me tell you all a funny little story. My first ever track day was at Sandown. Never having done anything like it before I spent the first few sessions driving around behind slower cars just getting a feel for everything (as you do). Finally later in the day I found myself passing the slower car on the main straight and for the first time approached turn 1 at full speed. I wasn't sure at what distance I should be braking however so I thought to myself - "Well on the playstation I brake at the 100 mark and those cars are going much faster than me so I will give that a go".

I went so far off the track and into the gravel pit is was hilarious. A good start to my "solo" track excursions. I have since discovered for me to make it around turn 1 I need to jump on the anchors HARD at about 175 out. Whats annoying is Ben - who travels about 40km/hr faster than me at this point - can do it from the 160 mark. (Stupid 383mm 6 Pot Harrops).

But the 100??? Really?

My advice - if you come to Phillip Island - I'd brake a little earlier than the 100 going into turn 1.

[Roy]

Did someone say brakes..

Im excited:whackit: Who is going to have 24pots (no not beers) for turn 1 at Phillip Island:):):):)

[Roy]

Problem is the coin and timing may mean i miss the day...see how long it takes to ship from the US

[SABBAi]

I seem to have cooked my RB74's at Calder. when I swapped in my new rotors, I had a quick look, and they are crumbling away and everything. Changed colour to a white/gold colour. The Comp 2's I have in the rear, haven't changed colour since I put them in.....

Considering the weight (1200kg) and braking capability of my car, I would expect them to last a bit longer than a few trackdays. Although, I did get the rotors glowing at one stage, but it sure wasn't anything like Andrews or some of the Rex boys. Not really all that impressed with the RB74's. I reckon I had similar braking capabilty with the Kmart pads the car had in when I got it...