Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

As some of you may have read I purchased my second skyline last week which was a 1992 R32. The car is fantastic but I have two small gremlins that I was wondering if you guys could shed some light on for me:

1) The car is the skyline red moron colour- I need a small amount of touch up paint and the tag in the engine bay with the colour code is so faded I can't read it- Does anyone know the colour code for this paint????

2) The other most annoying thing is the heat factor! My climate control seems to pump out 32 degree head around my feet even when the climate control is off or at 18 degrees. Luckily it's been bloody cold the last few days so I haven't minded too much however it will be annoying to say the least when the mercury rises again!

3) Also chasing a good place to do front mount piping in the North side of the city.

Look forward to catching up with you all at the next cruise and if you can help me kill these gremlins in the R32 I will love you all forever- (in a non-sexual way)

Jev

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63777-packing-heat-in-the-skyline/
Share on other sites

I''m not sure?? All my AC setup looks fine but doesn't work. The other thing it does is heat up the area around the head unit and clutch which can't be doing the wiring any favours as it gets so hot!!

I might take it to a friend of mine that is a automative engineer to see what he thinks.. Will post it here if I find the solution.

Robin- The windows down option is all good unless your sitting in traffic!

At the moment I have an R32-Sauna Spec!!!

tried switching it from outside rotating air to inside?? when u have it so it vents from outside which in a 32 it is by default, u have to switch it to inside circulation to stop air from outside coming in...

if ur aircon doesnt work and doesnt ge cold go get it regassed... remember they degas them when they come into the country.

no worries... i remember i had a similar issue when i got mine... wouldnt drop at all... try FC which is when u turn it on and adjust the temp hold the - button til its on the lowest and then keep holding it... FC should show up on the little screen thing... leave it on like that for 5 mins and see if anything changes...

also check the hose running from the little vent down near the gearstick on the right top part near the ash tray... you actually have to take off the gear surround to get to it. Sometimes when stereos are installed and taken out they crimp this and this help monitor the temp in the car.

almost forgot... u should be able to check if the gas is actually there by checking that metal tube with the square metal section with a glass window... if u have the AC on and u check that glass window you should see shit in there flowing through.

from memory its in the front of the radiator behid the bar

1) The car is the skyline red moron colour- I need a small amount of touch up paint and the tag in the engine bay with the colour code is so faded I can't read it- Does anyone know the colour code for this paint????

tell us your vin number and the fast software will spit out the color code

The other most annoying thing is the heat factor!  My climate control seems to pump out 32 degree head around my feet even when the climate control is off or at 18 degrees.  Luckily it's been bloody cold the last few days so I haven't minded too much however it will be annoying to say the least when the mercury rises again!

hmm....what degree does the climate control shown when you turn it off?? coz if you set it at for example 32 degree and you turn it off...then the heat will still come out....that's what happened to my s14a

hmm....what degree does the climate control shown when you turn it off?? coz if you set it at for example 32 degree and you turn it off...then the heat will still come out....that's what happened to my s14a

thats why i said u have to set it to recirculate air rather than pull air from outside which pushes the air through the vents when moving.

I had a similar prob with the air always being hot when I got my car. It ended up being a little motor or something under the dash near the top of your left foot. It wasn't working properly and the flap that makes the air hold or cold wasn't shutting. It was always as hot as it would go. Sorry I can't be too specific, but the dealer I bought it from had it fixed before I picked the car up, so I didn't have to fix it myself.

Hope this helps!

Nikr33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So recently at the track had experienced a loss of throttle after a period of WOT after installing the emtron ecu, recently did some logging to troubleshoot the issue and found the ECU was cutting due to a low oil pressure issue. Going over the log can see that while accelerating at 4k rpm will see 100 PSI of pressure and holding steady at that level until getting off the throttle which then after can see as low as 25 PSI at 3-4k rpm and will recover back to a normal level after that.   Wondering if anyone has an idea what could be the cause as it just feels abit strange and i dont feel like it could be a sensor issues just due to it clearly sitting at a good pressure until off throttle, in the attached can see a 3rd and 4th gear pull but can even perform great through 3 and 4 gears of WOT but still once off throttle and getting back on it will see pressure drop.
    • There are a few different ways of doing it. I'm currently running two 1000cc pre-TB nozzles and PWM the pump for control. I'll be moving over to a constant pressure system and direct port. I'll run the pump off a regular relay, have it cycle on roughly 5psi before I start injecting to build pressure and then PWM a WMI solenoid (It's basically an injector that can take a lot of pressure and not corrode with water and meth.) The solenoid feeds the 6 direct port ~200cc nozzles. I'll also keep one ~250cc pre-TB nozzle to help keep IAT's in check.  Safety will be a little different as well. I used to use a pressure switch but will be moving over to a pressure sensor between my solenoid and nozzles. I'll trigger my solenoid and if I don't see specific pressure within a specific timeframe (e.g 100psi within a second, 175psi within 2 seconds), I kill it and revert back to non WMI maps the same way I did it before with 4D in Haltech. I was just figuring out the timers in my ecu last night. They made that a little more complicated than I would have liked... I wish Haltech offered a larger set of logic/math functions like other ecu's do. I can't do very much with just AND's and OR's.  I've been asked to do fuel/ignition mapping on a medium bore engine at work in May (192L V16). Being the only programmer in my region and having went and opened my mouth about knowing the ins and outs of fuel/ignition mapping, I have now been deemed an expert. Fun fun. The entirety of the logic and algorithms are programmed in C on a PLC. As I spend more time figuring it all out, I like what I see and eventually I may consider doing the same as a pet project to replace my ecu.   
    • This would be interesting, would you feed it via a 2nd row of injectors? Or just usual WMI nozzles?
    • Cut sump up and extend. Win win 😂 
    • All, What's the recommended torque for the 1/2 head studs for RB30 twin cam conversion with RB26 head?  
×
×
  • Create New...