Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can never understand why people do this!

If the engine bay looks dirty then use a rag and clean it by hand!  

water and electrical connections do not mix!!!!!!!!!

I live on a dirt road. Cleaning with a rag isn't an option.

Besides, other reasons could be oil leaks etc. May have to degrease to find where the oil is really coming from.

There are many reasons to do it. Just gotta do it right so not to harm anything.

High pressure however is a HUGE no-no near engines IMO. If I can get 3 inch of clay of a dirt bike engine that has baked on there, with not more than garden house pressure, I can't see the need for a high pressure hose on a car engine!

Ah I knew I read something on here not long ago.

Here is a guide for detailing your car.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=47397

and http://www.carcareonline.com/viewarticle.aspx?art=4 was one of the links within the thread.

thx heaps for the feedback guyz,

yeh im definately not doing that again.

anywayz so ive disconneted all the terminals and ive let them sit

will that be enough to solve the problem?

btw where is the coil pack? and yes i do have a pod but being the dikwad i am i didnt cover it, how do i fix it?

dude, if u have wet the pod filter. STOP running the car...you want to get all the water out of everywhere first. It seems you have been running it a fair bit, so with a bit of luck it is just the coil packs.

My advice would be to not start the car until you have checked out the things mentioned above.

Do a search on coil pack servicing

Pod filter - I'd disconect it, sit in the sun until it is TOTALLY dry. See if water has gone up the pipe between the pod and the engine, if it has, might pay to remove the pipe, make sure it's all gone.

If you have water in the engine it is a VERY bad idea to be turning it over.

I am used to drowning dirt bikes, but not cars, I would assume it's the same idea, any place that water may have got, check it out, clean it out, dry it out.

On bikes after all that, you take the plugs out and turn it upside down and turn the engine over to get it all out....but I am guessing you don't do that with cars! hahaha (how funny would that be tho..*mental image*)

i know what your saying ? i say there is water traped under your coil packs as ive had the same thing happen to me i just pulled all my plugs out clean the packs with CRC and plugs put all back and done problem fixed ? and while your plugs are out turn your motor over blow any water or moist out of the bores if u have any good luck with things

When cleaning the engine bay a high pressure spray and degreaser, I made sure to cover the air filter with a plastic bag. I forgot to take the bag off afterwards but luckily I remembered just before I drove off. The car would have had a hard time breathing that's for sure.

We used to jet wash engine bays in one of my detailing jobs. Cover the fuse box (if under in the engine bay) and the alarm siren box. Quick flick over with a truck wash canister, then three times accross the bay with the jet wash to form not much more than a mist.

We always left the engines running as it would be hopeless trying to start it if something got wet.

Any idea of quantity of water or time spent purely on the engine bay with the jet wash? Seconds or minutes?

Hope it sorts itself out mate

I would get a high pressure airline and pull all of your electrical connectors apart and blast all the moisture out then spray with WD40 or similar product. Pull the coil packs out and do the same to them. dry your fully sick pod filter and put that back on.... You cant have done much in the way of damage. If the car sounds like it is missing its most likely because there is water in the coil packs and its shorting out... Just be carefull next time you wash...

P.S unless you had the hose on the air filter the engine wouldnt suck in enough water to hydrolic lock the engine so dont worry about that dude.

dry her out and then take it for a good run to get everything hot and the remaining water will evaporate and you be sucking the doors of HSV's and WRX's before you know it..

ENJOY!

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
×
×
  • Create New...