Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nope they are not compatible. you will need to go for a piggyback (apexi safc, greddy emanage) or a remap of the stock auto ecu (nistune, dr drift remap, toshi remap)

nope they are not compatible. you will need to go for a piggyback (apexi safc, greddy emanage) or a remap of the stock auto ecu (nistune, dr drift remap, toshi remap)

i believe another option is to use the pfc but then you need an add on box for the auto and if i remember right you then have to shift the auto manually, depending on how much you want that would probably be the better way to go any way.

Hi everyone,

First of all, a huge "thank you" Paul for what you've done: great FAQ!

I have a question: I'm used to tune L-Jetro PFCs, and I'll soon have to tune my first D-Jetro. I noticed there's an extra fuel map called "base map" which seems to be tuned.

Can someone tell me what is that map for?

Oh, and BTW, is there someone here who has the default std map of a RB26DETT D-Jetro (R33)?

Thx!

i believe another option is to use the pfc but then you need an add on box for the auto and if i remember right you then have to shift the auto manually, depending on how much you want that would probably be the better way to go any way.

the problem with using a manual ecu on an auto car (ie PowerFC on auto skyline) is that when the autbox changes gears the ECU doesn't know

so the timing doesnt change during gearchange. on the auto ecu the timing is dropped during gearchange to let the auto box change gracefully.

with the manual ECU the timing stays the same and the box suffers stress from a fully loaded engine during gearchange.

now this gotcha only applies to nissan's as toyota powerfc exists in auto, at least for the chaser

the JZX100 powerfc to suit chaser comes in auto and it has lots of logic and suppport for the AT gearbox

you can even change the mapping when it changes it gears in the menus and edit the gear splits (f**ken ace).

this from my understanding is because the toyota has its gearbox logic inside the main ecu, where as nissan is in another computer

apexi either didnt care about the auto box (lets face it, auto skyline isnt common) and either couldnt be bothered, didnt see $ in it or wasnt enough demand, or too complex?

Hi everyone,

First of all, a huge "thank you" Paul for what you've done: great FAQ!

I have a question: I'm used to tune L-Jetro PFCs, and I'll soon have to tune my first D-Jetro. I noticed there's an extra fuel map called "base map" which seems to be tuned.

Can someone tell me what is that map for?

Oh, and BTW, is there someone here who has the default std map of a RB26DETT D-Jetro (R33)?

Thx!

this is from the apexi documentation

post-2054-1271392063_thumb.jpg

there is no need to find a default rb26 djetro map, as it the powerfc comes with one

if it's second hand, perform a DATA INIT before using it and the default maps are loaded. if its new it already has the default maps

Thx a lot for the information. So if I got this right, if you fill the main fuel injection table with "1", you should be able to run 14.7ish all over the map. And if not, you should proceed to minor mods in the base fuel map in order to get 14.7 afr (at least in part throttle).

And only after that step, mods to the main fuel table should begin.

Am I right?

(oh, and do you have the p24 they say to refer to?)

Edited by Jobi

you use the fuel and inj correction maps to tune the car. its only if you find you can't get the results you want or run out of correction where you adjust the base map

hi kila, you need to use the nissan boost control kit

double check on your wiring loom if you have wire #25

this is used by the apexi boost control kit

ie 25 runs to the solenoid and the other is 12v (25 is a switched ground)

without wire #25 the boost control kit will not work, so double check before purchase

and as far as i know the EL hand controller will only suit FCC3 which is new style

so it wont work on RB20 AP eng powerfc as it needs FCC1 or FCC NT

hi kila, you need to use the nissan boost control kit

double check on your wiring loom if you have wire #25

this is used by the apexi boost control kit

ie 25 runs to the solenoid and the other is 12v (25 is a switched ground)

without wire #25 the boost control kit will not work, so double check before purchase

and as far as i know the EL hand controller will only suit FCC3 which is new style

so it wont work on RB20 AP eng powerfc as it needs FCC1 or FCC NT

ok thanks i was looking at the nengun website and they have 2 diffrent nissan onces the

415-A001 and the 415-A013 i was planning to buy one this week i just didnt want to get the wrong one.l

Paul....quick question.....

your FAQ is excellent. One thing I do in every car is take the timing to 0 between about 4000 and 2000rpm for that childish poping that I love.

However, when off the throttle the injectors always drop to 0, to get things going along nicely I need to hold the throttle open a little which gets the fuel throwing again.

Do you have the same effect? and if so any suggestions other than stuffing with TPS closed position?

Paul....quick question.....

your FAQ is excellent. One thing I do in every car is take the timing to 0 between about 4000 and 2000rpm for that childish poping that I love.

However, when off the throttle the injectors always drop to 0, to get things going along nicely I need to hold the throttle open a little which gets the fuel throwing again.

Do you have the same effect? and if so any suggestions other than stuffing with TPS closed position?

unsure sorry i put my timing back to normal for a while and forgot about the 0deg idea

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was £307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...