Faq: Apexi Powerfc - Frequently Asked Questions

[pfcr33]

Ok thanks for the info

[dlai]

Sorry I'm auper noob but can the power fc run dual maps for E85/98 RON?

[JonnoHR31]

not without a dongle and laptop, in which case you can run as many different maps as you want.

[R33 Eddy]

My PFC has been locked from making changes by a tuner and need to know if the ignition and injector advance decrease option ign/ijn i think still works when locked via the hand controller?

[JonnoHR31]

depends how much of it they've locked. ign/inj temporary adjustment should always work though. if you need it unlocked find someone in your area with datalogit and get them to unlock it for you, takes 5 seconds with a laptop.

[R33 Eddy]

depends how much of it they've locked. ign/inj temporary adjustment should always work though. if you need it unlocked find someone in your area with datalogit and get them to unlock it for you, takes 5 seconds with a laptop.

well i have added +25 ign and noticed no difference even went -15... no difference..

Might have to find someone to unlock it or buy a datalogit (anyone got one i can borrow?)

[paulr33]

find a workshop who has datalogit

they shouldnt charge you much to unlock it if you cant find someone local who has it

[R33 Eddy]

My hand controller is saying timing is at 15 degree but when using a timing light its at about 0deg is there a setting when using the datalogit to advance the whole map X degree? im just having trouble getting the cam timing correct after checking the timing belt 4 times and changing the CAS.

Im thinking my problem could now be PFC related. before i got my PFC it is possible that my timing belt was out a tooth to which i have had my PCF tuned to and now since making sure my timing is correct the tune will be out??

[paulr33]

at idle timing is locked by the powerfc at 15deg for RB25

it will display 15deg on the hand controller and you cant change or tune (the idle timing)

the idea here is that you at idle, adjust the CAS to also show 15deg to match what the ECU thinks idle is

so if you see 15deg on the hand controller, and sometghing else at the CAS, you adjust the cas until it reads 15deg bang on

then your ECU and CAS are in sync and when the ecu says its 22deg at blah blah RPM etc its actually 22deg

[JonnoHR31]

but if you adjust it at all you'll need to adjust your tune to suit

[R33 Eddy]

Hmm well i can not adjust the CAS to show 15degree most i can get is 10degree.. and im 100% sure i got the timing belt right (pulled it down 4 times and even counted the teeth)

When CAS is set to 10degree i get major knock 250... thinking my tuner may have tuned around my base timing.

But im still stumped why i can not get my base timing correct, 2nd CAS show the same problems.

[JonnoHR31]

when you line the balancer TDC mark up to the lower timing cover is the exhaust cam gear lined up exactly on the slot (not the white mark) in the rear timing cover? does the exhaust cam still have the alignment tooth for the cas?

[R33 Eddy]

when you line the balancer TDC mark up to the lower timing cover is the exhaust cam gear lined up exactly on the slot (not the white mark) in the rear timing cover? does the exhaust cam still have the alignment tooth for the cas?

Hmmm that's something i don't think i checked. The crank was done but i don't think i checked the Balancer afterwards to the Exhaust cam and just assumed it would be correct as it is keyed on... will pull off the top timing belt cover and check

Yes both CAM and CAS have alignment tooth still.. is it possible for the CAS to still be put on incorrectly with both Keys?...

I also just bought a FC Datalogit as i was hoping the base timing was set elsewhere but i guess not

[JonnoHR31]

Hmmm that's something i don't think i checked. The crank was done but i don't think i checked the Balancer afterwards to the Exhaust cam and just assumed it would be correct as it is keyed on... will pull off the top timing belt cover and check

Yes both CAM and CAS have alignment tooth still.. is it possible for the CAS to still be put on incorrectly with both Keys?...

I also just bought a FC Datalogit as i was hoping the base timing was set elsewhere but i guess not

the oil pump mark and bottom timing mark will line up the same, its just more accurate with the balancer (assuming your keyway isnt flogged) as it has finer marks closer together. the ideal way to set cam timing is with a dial gauge down the spark plug hole of cyl 1, but its not practical if you dont have one.

if both alignment keys are there then its not possible for it to align wrong, the key is beveled to guide the cas onto the right teeth if inserted slightly out of alignment. if its inserted way out of alignment it simply wont go in and forcing it will just break the cas.

99% sure power fc doesnt have any trigger angle correction as its an application specific ecu (ie, plug and play).

[R33 Eddy]

the oil pump mark and bottom timing mark will line up the same, its just more accurate with the balancer (assuming your keyway isnt flogged) as it has finer marks closer together. the ideal way to set cam timing is with a dial gauge down the spark plug hole of cyl 1, but its not practical if you dont have one.

if both alignment keys are there then its not possible for it to align wrong, the key is beveled to guide the cas onto the right teeth if inserted slightly out of alignment. if its inserted way out of alignment it simply wont go in and forcing it will just break the cas.

99% sure power fc doesnt have any trigger angle correction as its an application specific ecu (ie, plug and play).

Got some time over the weekend and confirmed that the balancer 0deg mark lines up with both inlet and exhaust cam timing marks...

So its either the timing light is doing something weird, CAS is stuff (but second CAS tested) or AFM...

When i opened FC-Edit the car is idling in 2X4 cell and not 2X2 cell... (RPMxLOAD) could this cause any differences?

[JonnoHR31]

that could just be from the retarded timing, the iac valce is letting in more air to compensate and keep the idle at ~800. aslong as TPS voltage is below .5v (0% throttle) the pfc should be in idle mode, in which case the timing map is ignored and timing is based on idle speed and is varied between 10 and 20 degrees (it aims for 15 if everythings working as it should) to keep idle at whatever its supposed to be.

if your 100% sure cam timing is spot on and the pfc is showing 15 degrees then it can only be CAS, wiring, timing light or the power fc itself. can you get hold of another timing light?

[R33 Eddy]

that could just be from the retarded timing, the iac valce is letting in more air to compensate and keep the idle at ~800. aslong as TPS voltage is below .5v (0% throttle) the pfc should be in idle mode, in which case the timing map is ignored and timing is based on idle speed and is varied between 10 and 20 degrees (it aims for 15 if everythings working as it should) to keep idle at whatever its supposed to be.

if your 100% sure cam timing is spot on and the pfc is showing 15 degrees then it can only be CAS, wiring, timing light or the power fc itself. can you get hold of another timing light?

So are you saying in idle mode even though the PFC hand controller is saying 10 it could be varied 10-20?? or what it shows on the hand controller should be at the crank? e.g 10 should be 10 at crank.. I did notice that 2X4 should have been 20 degrees but was showing 15 so I'm positive it was in idle mode.

I might try a new timing light and even put on my old broke CAS (one of the mounts snapped) just to see if i anything changes if it all stays the same then it could be ECU or wiring?

[JonnoHR31]

na whats shown on the hand controller in monitor is always what the ecu is putting out, ideally this should be the same at the crank if the timings set properly. in idle mode the ecu simply ignores the main ignition map and runs between 10-20 degrees (for rb25 anyway) to control idle speed. if you've already tried 2 cas's it'd be pretty safe to rule that out, although a 3rd wouldnt hurt. see if you can borrow another timing light from a mate or local member.

[W0rp3D]

just replaced all the water hoses under the inlet manifold, i took the manifold off to make it easier, after putting it all back together i couldnt start it, realised that i had forgotten to plug in the air meter under the manifold, eventually i got it started (took a while tho) untill i got it started the power fc would not display a temp at all but once started it constantly displays 150 temp, the dash gauge sits on half once warmed (where it nomally sits), i also tried removing the temp sensor plugs (3 of them, i think there all temp) one of them would kill the dash gauge but none of them would change the power fc, since i have had it running it feels very doughy and breaks down a bit up top, im assuming that is due to the temp reading and the power fc changing the map to compensate for the high temp reading.

Any one else have this problem or have any idea how to fix it?

[paulr33]

the dash temp and the ecu temp are two different sensors

if the ecu temp is toast or out of range it will make the ECU act differently - have a look at ETC/SENSOR SW CHECK - What is displayed for WTRT ?

and what does it show for MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, WATER TEMP ?

on the water radiator pipe at the top of the engine, front left, there are two plugs

one of them is the ECU temp sensor, one of them is the dash temp sensor

they both operate independently so whilst you can have a valid dash reading, the ecu could be getting a dead signal or wrong range etc

if you find your water temp sensor is dead you can unplug it and the car will still run

it will just assume ass correction and be a bit sluggish - ie dont flog it like this

from memory its generic sensor part - i used a sr20 180sx part on my ECR33 when i killed my sensor