Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Paul,

Would a dodgy AFM cause major knocking in the range of 70-90?

unlikely so i would say no, read the PFC FAQ

theres lots of topics covering knocking and how to test and deal with it

Does a power fc'd skyline need regular "tuning", like changing the oil every 5000 ks?

of course

normal maitenance should still apply for the car

if the car is putting out significantly more power than std more attention should be given to service intervals and quality of fluids, items used etc

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Is there a way of disabling one cylinder through the power fc making the whole engine run on 5 cylinders?

Went to get my car tuned, but they never tuned it as my engine was running 5 cylinders.

there is no such feature, the only way you could achieve this would be to unplug one of the coil pack leads

Hey paul,

I've notcied that on my powerfc controller that my knock "figure" has disappeared... I still get the knock bar I just dont get the knock value. Any suggestions?

This problem only happened when i was driving home in flooded roads and I had hit something which made a pretty big thump but at low speed (mabye 10-20km/h) which has then caused my immobiliser light to come on whilst driving and now my alarm/immobiliser doesnt work.... Would this have something to do with the missing knock figure because I havent touched the pfc controller since I got it tuned...

Hey guys i have just put a power FC In my R33 and i am having trouble with the fuel and ignition map when i adjust them and then select previous and exit the maps then return to the maps the adjustments i made are gone just wondering if any one can help me

Hey paul,

I've notcied that on my powerfc controller that my knock "figure" has disappeared... I still get the knock bar I just dont get the knock value. Any suggestions?

This problem only happened when i was driving home in flooded roads and I had hit something which made a pretty big thump but at low speed (mabye 10-20km/h) which has then caused my immobiliser light to come on whilst driving and now my alarm/immobiliser doesnt work.... Would this have something to do with the missing knock figure because I havent touched the pfc controller since I got it tuned...

when viewing knock in 1 CHANNEL display press UP for digital top score

Hey guys i have just put a power FC In my R33 and i am having trouble with the fuel and ignition map when i adjust them and then select previous and exit the maps then return to the maps the adjustments i made are gone just wondering if any one can help me

i've replied to your pm - when you edit a value on the INJ or IGN map you need to confirm the change with NEXT (PREV will back the change out)

so edit the value, press NEXT and it will save the change you have made

i've replied to your pm - when you edit a value on the INJ or IGN map you need to confirm the change with NEXT (PREV will back the change out)

so edit the value, press NEXT and it will save the change you have made

paulr33

Hello, i wrote you few time and sorry for disturbing but i need help, i need to tune somehow PFC but i dont know how to:( i read manual but no sence:(

here is list what i have instale on the car it was absolutly stock when arrived

FC

front mount plenum

KKR480

intercooler

full hightflow exhaust

injectors maf and pump is stock

so here is my problem i cant close westgeit because of othervise boost goes up now i have arraund 15PSI but turbo opens at 4500 RPM and eache run up i have erraund 90 knock, fc is absolutly not tuned just moving timing at 6 degrees and thats all

if you can help or give some nmaps that i could enter in fc it could be great or suggest someone who can help me... car is runing well its much faster than M5 E60 but still FC isnot tuned and i know its not good for engine

Please Help

Any other recommendations for a unstable and sometimes high idle (1000rpm)

I have leaned the idle right out and it definately helps when rolling to the lights as before it used to rev up and down. Now at idle, sometimes its fine at 700rpm but generally its around 900/1000rpm and sometimes back to 700rpm, but the majority of the time its high, seems to have a mind of its own.

Any recommendations as i dont want to reset it.

Hey,

With a r32 gtst and rb26dett ecu.. I am having troubles with speed read out. It sais up to 900km per hour when only doing 100 sometimes it works good and others none at all. Any idea??

Any other recommendations for a unstable and sometimes high idle (1000rpm)

I have leaned the idle right out and it definately helps when rolling to the lights as before it used to rev up and down. Now at idle, sometimes its fine at 700rpm but generally its around 900/1000rpm and sometimes back to 700rpm, but the majority of the time its high, seems to have a mind of its own.

Any recommendations as i dont want to reset it.

when you encounter the high RPM issue check out SENSOR SW CHECK and see if anything out of the ordinary happens

maybe leave that screen open and watch if you see the issue about to occur

other than that all i can suggest is maybe clean AAC, check leaks etc, check TPS, check throttle body

read the nissan service manual for idle related issues and lastly a reset as a last resort (get someone to copy the tune before you do)

Hey,

With a r32 gtst and rb26dett ecu.. I am having troubles with speed read out. It sais up to 900km per hour when only doing 100 sometimes it works good and others none at all. Any idea??

the only thing i can suggest is check the speed sensor wiring

Not sure if this has been asked but I don't have time to read through 21 pages so...

Can the 3 or 5 pin harness for the boost reading work on any pfc or just the d-jetro? Also, what else do I need to hook it up apart from this harness? Vacuum hose etc??

Not sure if this has been asked but I don't have time to read through 21 pages so...

Can the 3 or 5 pin harness for the boost reading work on any pfc or just the d-jetro? Also, what else do I need to hook it up apart from this harness? Vacuum hose etc??

hello stranger

:P Small world isnt it!

Im quite sure you can use the boost reading on any pfc. I know mine is 3 pin and the socket is on the back somewhere. In my pfc boost controll kit it came with the sensor, which is wired in and hooked up to the manifold pressure. Im unsure of the signal type this sensor uses and what else you could use but i imagine there'd be something else out there. . . .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...