Jump to content
SAU Community

Faq: Apexi Powerfc - Frequently Asked Questions


paulr33

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi paul, sorry to bother you so many times with PM's and email. At the moment i'm kinda desperate for a solution and worried about the fact my car won't be fixed.

Prior to all these problem, i've placed my battery wrong way around and i suspected i've fried the powerfc. i took my power fc down to a place here who specialised in them. they looked over it and couldn't find anything that was wrong. thank god, s o the powerfc wasn't fried (i thought). i went and got my car retuned, however the car won't idle. report i got from the tuner was that the power fc idle solenoid driver needs repair. so i taken my power fc back and they looked over it again and said there's nothing to be found. plugged it back in and the car still not idling. now prior to all the mods, i know that my car was idling with the stock ECU. So that cancel out the possibility of anything on the car side (tps, idling). the mechanic said there's power going to the TPS, but there's no signal coming from the power fc. And this is wear i'm stuck and dumbfounded. the power fc has been fixed twice. i couldn't exactly go out and buy another power fc, as mine has been discontinued and i couldn't justify spending another 1k and being back to square one. a mate suggested that if i found a 2nd hand/ faulty power fc i could salvage the part (idling solenoid driver part) needed to fix my car. at the moment i can only find a 2nd R33 GTR power fc. Could i do this? and fix my power fc which is for a 94 s14?

any input and advice would greatly be apprieciated.

tn-

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi paul

1st of all would like to thank you for taking the time to help every one out with a top FAQ page for the power fc!!

i do have a question that has not yet been asked:

i have a air/fuel ratio gauge with wideband lambda (VEMS)

this replaces the stock narrow band lamnda but the gauge offers a narrow band output for the stock ecu.

it also offers wideband output for aftermarket ecu`s

1v wideband

2v wideband

3v wideband

my question is:

can i run the power fc on a wideband lambda on the 1v wideband output setting?

what would be the pro`s & con`s of this?

thank you

jake

ps: power fc model: ecr33 for the rb25det

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi paul

1st of all would like to thank you for taking the time to help every one out with a top FAQ page for the power fc!!

i do have a question that has not yet been asked:

i have a air/fuel ratio gauge with wideband lambda (VEMS)

this replaces the stock narrow band lamnda but the gauge offers a narrow band output for the stock ecu.

it also offers wideband output for aftermarket ecu`s

1v wideband

2v wideband

3v wideband

my question is:

can i run the power fc on a wideband lambda on the 1v wideband output setting?

what would be the pro`s & con`s of this?

thank you

jake

ps: power fc model: ecr33 for the rb25det

the PFC and std 02 sensor from memory is from 0.0v to 1.0v from a narrow band 02 sensor

so that being said, if your wideband sensor has an optional output for narrow band applications and its in the range of 0 to 1.0v then it should be fine

the PFC wont be any wiser, as long as the scale and logarthmic of the output is fairly normal it should be ok

well the pro is obvious, you can ditch the narrow band sensor and have 1 wide band sensor for both uses (wide guage and narrow ecu)

con im not sure there is any? as long as the output is normal and 0 to 1.0v it should be fine

the worst case would be the 1v output is useless and it will waste fuel on cruise

you can check the input signal on the PFC by viewing ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK

and checking out what 02-1 is at idle - it should be under 1 v

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey 2 save me looking through all the pages i have a question with my pfc. my car has one of the apexi turbo timers that have the a/f ratio in it and when watching it while driving the ratio varies between 10.0 and 14.5 which im geting fixed up shortly but the thing that im confused about is when i lift off the throtle the air fuel ratio maxes out at 20.0 but it might even be more as thats wat the timer maxes at. and while i was on the way back home from superlap i was sittng at the lights at lithgow and had a look and at idle it was at 18.5 but as soon as i put a litle bit of throtle on it would drop down 2 14.5. is there sumthing wrong sumwhere that i should look at. i have datalogit and can try get a copy of them 2 pm sum1 if they want 2 look at them 2 help me as they r on my dads laptop. thanks in advance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey guys ive just bought a power fc for my rb20 r32.

it came with no hand controller so i am trying to figure out which model it is as ive heard that i need a specific one.

i took the case off of the ecu and the nec chip in the middle for some reason has a white sticker saying r32 sr20det??

i msg'd back the bloke i bought it off and he said that he had just pulled it out of his mates rb20 ceffy. so i believe him.

so anyway. wondering if anyone can help me out

the numbers on the nec chip are as follows:

D78P334LQ(A)

0303RK007

inside there is another green chip approximately 8cms long that has the apex'i logo then CEX-9609-030-RB25

on the outer casing of the unit it has another sticker with PFC R32 A0236 and the AP. ENGINEERING under it

is this safe to assume this is a modified rb25 unit by ap engineering?

which hand controller do i need to get?

thanks heaps for any help people.

cheers ross

ps. will it be any concern that i am actually running a c33 laurel rb20??

pps. will my bee-r rev limiter still work??

Edited by jeffers1987
Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can send a pm to "abu" he has an ap eng r32 PFC for sale with hand controller

the hand controller will have a sticker on the back with a version no, it should be FCC NT or FCC1

the model when purchased new is usually listed as N001

which is FCCNT or FCC1

the newer style hand controller is usually listed as X001

which is usually FCC3

FCC3 or X001 part # will NOT work - dont bother

check with abu but im certain it will be FCC1 or FCC NT- in the case find an FCC NT or FCC1 or N001 part # hand controller (nengun.com have it new)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey 2 save me looking through all the pages i have a question with my pfc. my car has one of the apexi turbo timers that have the a/f ratio in it and when watching it while driving the ratio varies between 10.0 and 14.5 which im geting fixed up shortly but the thing that im confused about is when i lift off the throtle the air fuel ratio maxes out at 20.0 but it might even be more as thats wat the timer maxes at. and while i was on the way back home from superlap i was sittng at the lights at lithgow and had a look and at idle it was at 18.5 but as soon as i put a litle bit of throtle on it would drop down 2 14.5. is there sumthing wrong sumwhere that i should look at. i have datalogit and can try get a copy of them 2 pm sum1 if they want 2 look at them 2 help me as they r on my dads laptop. thanks in advance

the 02 sensor value displayed on the Apexi turbo timer is pointless and a waste of space

it will provide you with nothing useful and will never show anything accurate, its a slow and narrow sensor.

simply ignore the readout and dont rely on it for anything

Link to comment
Share on other sites

G'day,

Sorry if this thread is wrong for my question, I'll ask anyway.

I have '98 ECR33 with 34 CAS (one of these 40th anniversary editions), I'm interested in one that has been previously in Series 1 R33.

My question is, would the PFC from Series 1 work on Series 2 with 34 CAS?

I'd like to know this before I go buy it.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Grant

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the 02 sensor value displayed on the Apexi turbo timer is pointless and a waste of space

it will provide you with nothing useful and will never show anything accurate, its a slow and narrow sensor.

simply ignore the readout and dont rely on it for anything

thanks thats wat i thought its going in 4 a tune shortly anyway and will have a wideband installed 2 it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

G'day,

Sorry if this thread is wrong for my question, I'll ask anyway.

I have '98 ECR33 with 34 CAS (one of these 40th anniversary editions), I'm interested in one that has been previously in Series 1 R33.

My question is, would the PFC from Series 1 work on Series 2 with 34 CAS?

I'd like to know this before I go buy it.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Grant

it will work fine, the CAS is visually different but works the same

you wont have any issues, i know of a 40th anniversary R33 1998 model with normal R33 PFC works fine

Link to comment
Share on other sites

can an R34 GTR with a power FC retain its stock AFM instead of upgrading to the Z32s ?

Also what are the drawbacks of running with the stock AFM ? Cheers fellas.

yes the standard powerFC version uses standard AFMS

only the djetro version removes them and uses its own map sensors

there are no drawbacks of using the standard AFMS

using AFMS is better than using map sensors

the standard AFMS will max around 300rwkw ish

and youll need to upgrade them - the nismo AFMS

are z32 internal inside GTR shells so you can retain std pipework, ducting etc

Z32s are 80mm so if you goto z32s you have to change all the pipework etc

nismo AFMS are 65mm but with z32 sensors inside so same power level

just plug and play on the GTR with std airbox, pipe work etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With Guilt-Toy we are going to tune my R33 FC this suterday hope we will get good results, hes going to tune it remotly:) via internet :blink: in realtime :huh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

hi Paul,

i plugged a PFC into my car last night and has some funny symptoms with my ATTESSA

CAR

R33 GTS4 RB25DET S1

PFC was from a S1 gtst my thoughts we it shouldnt matter that the car it came from doesnt have AWD as the main ECU doesnt handle that stuff but i had my AWD binding up on me on a few occasions

the only other thing that has been done different is i put my front shaft back in after it being out for about 6 months so could it be a coincident that the same night i put the shaft and pfc in i get weird binding

also i did drive it 45mins from my tuner to my house with no binding on standard ecu

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi Paul,

i plugged a PFC into my car last night and has some funny symptoms with my ATTESSA

CAR

R33 GTS4 RB25DET S1

PFC was from a S1 gtst my thoughts we it shouldnt matter that the car it came from doesnt have AWD as the main ECU doesnt handle that stuff but i had my AWD binding up on me on a few occasions

the only other thing that has been done different is i put my front shaft back in after it being out for about 6 months so could it be a coincident that the same night i put the shaft and pfc in i get weird binding

also i did drive it 45mins from my tuner to my house with no binding on standard ecu

hi

when you say issues - what issues? what errors / warning lights?

it doesnt matter what series the 33 PFC came from 1 or 2 its the same unit

i suspect the 4wd light is always on when you run with the PFC

if thats the case, find the TPS wire on your loom

i had this issue with my R33 GTST with active LSD

what happened was the stock ECU relays the TPS signal from the original source

onto another wire which runs to the active LSD computer in the boot

the GTR 4wd system is the same so stock ECU would relay the original TPS signal

onto another wire that runs to the boot, but the PFC doesnt do this

as apexi didnt cater for wierd spec R33s like yours and mine (that is GTS4 and GTST Active lSD versions)

both need the TPS signal relayed to the boot computer

so find the TPS signal on your loom and then check where it goes

it needs to run to your 4wD computer in the boot (there will be a TPS wire there)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh it only happens at low speed seems to be when pulling out my driveway or into car parks

TPS = throttle position sensor?

might leave that one for my tuner

oh and when the issue happened today i looked @ my AWD light and it didnt come on but what it seems to do is put the attessa into 100% mode

oh and my AWD light isnt continuously on

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi just a bit confused here

the knock sensor reading on my pfc always reads , well its sort of a straight line like an 'l' any ideas ??

tried doing a search but an error came up

its a Bar graph style view

as you get more knocking the line will move like this

|-------------------|

to

|||||---------------|

and

||||||||||||||||----|

make sense?

if you press up in the thtat view you will get a digital readout of the same value

anything over 60 will make the engine check light flash

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For students aiming for top grades, our Best Assignment Help offers the perfect solution. Our team of experienced writers delivers meticulously crafted assignments that meet university standards. We prioritize originality, timely delivery, and round-the-clock support to ensure your academic achievements.
    • I should clarify that the previous owner put the wheels on, so Im not entirely sure what he bought. I was searching the Rota page and found these two as the only matches. It did not occur to me that perhaps they sell these wheels with different offsets. I guess the best way to solve this is to take the wheels off and measure them from the inside to be sure.
    • The offset doesn't really have anything to do with dish directly. I mean it kind of does but it also doesn't, it's only tangenial. The offset is purely how much offset (get it) the mounting face is from the CENTER of the width of the rim. I.e, the mounting face would be directly in the middle of the 9.5inches if it was a 18x9.5 ET0 rim. Given it is a +12 rim, the mounting face is 12mm further away from the center (to the outside of the car). Your fronts are +30, so the mounting face is 30mm further away from the center (to the outside of the car). I would wager this doesn't look right, because most skylines generally have the same with guards front to back. So I'd think your fronts look significantly more sunken in than your rears. I'd wager by about 18mm, or so.
    • My '96 r33 Skyline has Rota GTR, 18 x 9.5 inch, ET30 on the front and Rota GTR-D, 18 x 9.5 inch, ET12 on the rear. (Put on by previous owner) The 12mm offset is throwing me for a loop. Is it due to the "deep dish" design of the wheel that the offset it so low? Or is it actually that low on the rear normally? If I were buying a set of new wheels, could I put 30mm offsets on the rear and reasonably expect them to fit? I have GTR Brembos and 370Z rotors (355mm/350mm) if it matters. Thank you.
    • here is the video, again really hard to hear but in person its very loud 20240703_175734.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...