Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What I read was the pros were earlier versions of pfc and should be compatible with all normal pfc handcontrollers that were manufactured during that period. Like you've said the newer ones has got different model number (415-N001 was the exact model on nengun for the hc). Thanks for the info.

Edited by Brandon
  • 2 weeks later...

there's a fair bit of work on the BNR32/BCNR33 misfire bug

worth a read if you are still experiencing misfiring intermittently

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/My...51#entry4767151

Can anybody tell me if I am going about leaning off the cold start on my PFC the right way ? I go to settings, cranking, then in the +10C range I have reduced it from 26ms to 19ms and this seems to have helped as it starts easier but is this correct ? I have also trimmed the other ranges and the car seems to be smoother while warming up. Would I be better off changing the water correction ? Also, what timing are RB25's achieving in the 7 x 7 range before knock ? I have a knock level of 3 in the 3 x 3 range and car does take off better but is that what I aim for then try for more knock higher in the rev range ? Or is 10 or 15 better right from idle ? I just love this tuning thing, though won't be touching the fuel till I get a wide band.

for timing i used the temp ing adjust to add +10 and drove around

kept it under 3 grand and gave it some curry

watched the knock levels and then updated the map from there

see if you can add +5 deg using the temp adjust

and see how you go

but from memory 7 on the RPM axis is 2800 so be careful around here

my 7x7 IGN value is 38

This may sound stupid but how often does pfc/ecu shits itself (due to age)? I'm just paranoid when it comes to purchasing 2nd hand electronics. Would it be advisable to get the boost controller kit for boost controlling or just any aftermarket solenoid with a missile switch? Sorry this maybe a lil off topic.

Ok, I'm looking at my ignition values and at load 3, revs 3 am getting up to 28 ignition value and only 6-7 knock. Seems like a lot of timing but I have added 3-4 deg. to most of the cells so far to get that 6-7 knock. I think it is probably about time I look at a few other peoples timing in that 7x7 area and compare.

Would it be possible for some of you to draw up a grid and plot your cell values ? I'll do mine as I work my way through it and see what I end up with. The car has been tuned by Yavuz @ Unigroup and Hitman so am not worried about fuel at this stage.

Have fixed the starting problem with an increase from 26 to 31 in "cranking" at the +10 range. Seem to be getting more soot spots on the rear bumper though so am wandering if the extra timing is somehow dislodging carbon or fuel deposits from the engine itself or exhaust.

This may sound stupid but how often does pfc/ecu shits itself (due to age)? I'm just paranoid when it comes to purchasing 2nd hand electronics. Would it be advisable to get the boost controller kit for boost controlling or just any aftermarket solenoid with a missile switch? Sorry this maybe a lil off topic.

they are solid state devices and the PFC has an nvram chip to save its tune

even with a few months of no piower etc, it won't loose the state of tune

and if the state of tune is lost, which would be unlikely as its nvram, and not a battery backed cache

then you just re-tune it, no mess no fuss

im not aware of any "age" issues with either the PFC or stock ecu

Very comforting to hear that first hand from someone experienced. I've read a lot about the pfc boost controller kit not able to hold high boost well (e.g. 20+psi). For my application I think the highest I would go is 18psi. Do you think they'll be a problem there?

Just wondering if anybody has ever had to replce the screen on there power fc, if so will any lcd screen do and what is the size of the standard screen.

Also if i was to use a bigger/smaller screen would the digits be bigger/smaller or would you just have left over space(on a bigger screen) or cut off some of the display (on a smaller screen).

Im looking at having just the display on the dash with no buttons, that way if a cop ever looks inside it does not look so suspicious.

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#44

Brett: photo pfc1 and pfc2 looks really good! I might do that to the car... lol

Edited by Brandon

OK, currently at LO1-No7 and up to 46. LO2-7 also 46, and still no more than 3 knock. Kept it in that zone and just throttling enough to keep it there and no knock to worry about. Have to tell you though, what a transformation. Instant throttle response. Feels like a friends Honda Integra. Interestingly, vacuum on my trusty Profec B has dropped from 98 on idle to 88, is this normal with 20 in the cells around idle ? I am barely touching the accelerator and it will rev to 3,000rpm no problem.

yeah the part # is in the PFC FAQ, i brought it and tried it but couldnt get it working

i think it needs some form of firmware code on the actual controller board

as its not just a screen, but a complete controller board with a 20 pin connector

so i tried it, and no good

i brought a blue one, with white writing

welcome to try, the part was only $20

but youll probably break your hand contrller trying

I know it's been said before but thank you Paul for the info you have gathered here. I have seen your advice floating around from here to England, Russia, Canada, Hawaii and Trinidad of all places. No thread in the entire forum has travelled so far and been read by so many. Good on you.

hi i just recently bought a r32 gtr that runs a PFC just a quick question maybe a stupid one but if i disconnect the battery its not going to cause the PFC to reset itself ? as i am about 6 hrs away from any good tunning shop

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...