Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the stock maps are fairly rich for protection reasons but it should still enter closed loop on low throttle. as long as 02 feedback is turned on of course. 250km's to a full tank is resonable in an un-tuned state

  • 2 weeks later...

Quick Question...

- AVC-R

Or

- Boost Controller Kit

for Power FC?

Is it personally preference of would the boost controller kit for the PFC be better cause its also controlling the rest of the engine as well as being cheaper than the AVCR (AVCR = $580) - (PFC Boost Controller = $400)

Give me your thoughts...

so no disadvantage/advantage over the two... apart from having an AVCR on my dash and someone decides the would prefer it off my dash and in their corolla :D

It has a bit of a wank factor... Also with the PFC do you have to leave the commander connected all the time, can you like take it on and off at will if its in the way or soemthing?

After reading the faq, I still needed some more convincing on the PFC with an auto, so i've made a new thread so as not to bring the conversation into here:-

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=97698

So yeah, i want to know once and for all if the PFC will work with the auto.

Cheers.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey ive have plugged in my power fc and its hasent been tuned yet.

the engine light stays on and the car constantly stalls. it also feels like its skips and hops going up through the rev range. all was fine with my stock compter.

i need to keep the powerfc in fow a couple of weeks till i get it tuned, is there anything i can do to fix it? like reset it or sumthing?

make sure the boost controller kit is turned off (says that in the faq) and if that doesnt make the engine light go off, try a full reset via ETC then turn the key to ACC, turn off boost control kit and then start car and let it idle for 20 minutes. follow the procedure correctly for first time "init" of the powerfc as it has to learn the idle

I dont know if this has been covered but I just found you that you can get number rating for the knocking levels with your car.

Just press the UP arrow, and it will show digits for knocking. So basically it will show you the peak, in a digit and not just upon the bar graph

  • 2 weeks later...

updated:

added boost control kit hookup

added boost control kit configuration

added boost display without using boost control kit

added apexi other piggyback systems

corrected grammar with powerfc pro

expanded more on apexi boost control kit functionality

Paul

I bought a AVCR boost pressure sensor from Nengun. I have a 3 pin plug for my power FC. It reads boost but its wrong. I have my set my boost pressure at .65 bar via the power fc to read 20psi at my guage. My low boost is set at .50 bar.

I believe something is wrong with the boost pressure sensor? I had to manually wire it up as it didnt have the correct plugs. Any ideas as i have double checked the wiring.

sorry robo im a bit confused. i dont know for a fact the avcr map sensor is the same, it should be. can u give me the denso part number from it. the map sensor should attach to the 3 pin harness. the boost solenoid should attach to your stock wiriing. when you goto setting, boost what option is highlited and whats it set to ?

  • 2 weeks later...

heres one for ya, my battery went dead flat and car sat there for 2 weeks, i jump started the car from a charger/starter pack and now engine light is always on and car stutters while cruising every couple of seconds. We went to a local tunig shop and they had a customers car with brand new power fc and we used that commander as i dont have one for mine. It plugged in and just came up with the apexi logo and thats all it would do. Are the commanders only suited to that specific ecu of should it have worked? Also any ideas on wether something has been reset or blown due to the flat battery then jump start? driving hard it seems to run fine with no stuttering but its when you sit on a constant cruising speed and also does it worse under less load. also after working on it tonight the voltage off the battery is at 14.8-15.5 volts whilst running and the battery light is now on!!

Bet ya this stumps ya!! lol

Edited by DRIFTPIG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...